How to go about removing the front dampers?

[Vinny_VSX]

I have to take off my bilsteins on my saxo atm. But I am not too sure on how to take them off. Am I right in thinking this is how you do it -

1) Obviously take off the wheels
2) Undo the 3 bolts on the strut
3) Take off the anti roll bar
4) Take off the caliper

Am I correct in thinking this is all you have to do to get it off?

Anyhoo

Cheers guys

[raunchz]

........ plus:

You will need to undo the driveshaft,
Pry the wishbone away from the bottom of the strut,
Undo the steering arm from the strut,

Then you can remove the strut !!

[Vinny_VSX]

Cool. Cheers mate

[Vinny_VSX]

How about the rear ones? How exactly do they come off?

[willsy]

Then you can remove the strut !!

Then after you've removed the strut to get the damper out you'll need to:

Compress the spring, preferably with spring compressors
Deep ring spanner on the top nut with allen key to turn the other way
Remove top mount and bearing (remember how these fit together)
slide spring off
Undo the damper retaining collar on the strut
Then you'll be able to take the damper out

[willsy]

How about the rear ones? How exactly do they come off?

Just 2 bolts with nuts to remove on these. Very easy to do

[Vinny_VSX]

Just 2 bolts with nuts to remove on these. Very easy to do

Brilliant. Do I have to support the arm with a jack when removing the damper?

[Vinny_VSX]

Then after you've removed the strut to get the damper out you'll need to:

Compress the spring, preferably with spring compressors
Deep ring spanner on the top nut with allen key to turn the other way
Remove top mount and bearing (remember how these fit together)
slide spring off
Undo the damper retaining collar on the strut
Then you'll be able to take the damper out

Oh man, this is turning out to be one hell of a job. Darn it

[willsy]

Brilliant. Do I have to support the arm with a jack when removing the damper?

Probably best to as itll keep the bolt holes lined up correctly whilst you change over (much easier). If it slips or you forget to its no major problem, will just need to push the trailing arm back into place.

Oh man, this is turning out to be one hell of a job. Darn it

With the right tools it wont take very long to do, but when doing it for your first time its easy to encounter problems or realise that you need a certain tool to help you out.

In theory if everything goes smoothly it wouldnt take very long atall

[Vinny_VSX]

Probably best to as itll keep the bolt holes lined up correctly whilst you change over (much easier). If it slips or you forget to its no major problem, will just need to push the trailing arm back into place.



With the right tools it wont take very long to do, but when doing it for your first time its easy to encounter problems or realise that you need a certain tool to help you out.

In theory if everything goes smoothly it wouldnt take very long atall

Cheers pal for the advice. I will be doing the rear dampers tomorrow afternoon and hopefully the front ones next weekend. Rep is going your way :y:

[Ryan]

i hope you have spring compressors.

breaking the ball joints might need a ball joint seperator depending on how fucked they are (track rod ball joint)

lower ball joint is easy.

[Ryan]

and id remove the top 3 bolts last btw. once ive removed the track rod, bottom ball joint and driveshaft. just loosen them to being with.

[Vinny_VSX]

I will be getting myself some spring clamps 2moro. I kind of like my face the way it is, so these will be a wise investment.

Man this guy who I know who did my suspension, made everything look so easy. He did it within 2 hours. This is going to take me freaking ages :(

[Ryan]

should be able to remove it in about 30-45mins

[Vinny_VSX]

Not too bad.

Mate when all the gearbox oil spills out all over the place. How do I go about putting it back in? This guy who fitted my billies for me last time, had some kind of syringe looking thing? Any ideas on where I can get one pal?

[Ryan]

the gearbox oil shouldnt piss out unless you take the whole driveshaft out... just remove it from the strut side

[Vinny_VSX]

Awesomeo. Still I have to change the box oil, so it might be best to do it all at once. I am sure there are some threads on here though, which I can follow when doing the oil change :).

Once this car is sold I will be looking for a dedicated track car project. Possibly a 205 or another saxo lol. Gotta practise before I this motorsport engineering course I have been accepted on to, woo :)

[Ryan]

if your gonna remove the shafts, do it, remove the box oil then put new stuff in.

[Vinny_VSX]

Is there a special way to put the oil in? Or just pour it in after putting the shaft in?

[Ryan]

theres a filling plug.

[Vinny_VSX]

Sweet. Cheers for the help ryan. You have been a gem lol :y:

[Ryan]

if you are removing the shafts, get a pan for the oil, as box oil smells like shit.

[Vinny_VSX]

Haha, I already have a bowl from doing my engine oil changes. Messy business is oil

[Vinny_VSX]

Hmmm... Would it be ok to leave my car on axle stands on the jack up points for a few days? The ground is flat also.

[andywiddss1]

im sure it will mate

[Vinny_VSX]

im sure it will mate

Cool cool. I thought it might. Just I recall someone saying that it isn't very wise, as the jacking points could bend. Can't see that happening, as it isn't going to get disturbed or anything.

Anyhoo, cheers pal

[Vinny_VSX]

Today I took off the rear dampers, which was surprisingly easy. Anyhoo, the standard dampers seem to be really stiff which is quite odd.

I have prepped the front by disconnecting the brakes and spraying some of the bolts which seemed stiff with some penetrating fluid.

:)