Suzuki Tuning lowering guide, quicky

[TU-Tuning]

See here;

http://www.suzukituning.com/PSA/Suspension/Lowering.htm

Is that the 'proper' way or the 'clicks' way? I thought it was the proer way as they measure it but they talk about two teeth, which seems liek it might be the click way?


Chars :drink:

[AxForteVTS]

thats the proper way... they raise about 21mm which equates to 40mm lowering...

cheers

dom

[TU-Tuning]

Nice one, repped

[Toad]

thats the proper way... they raise about 21mm which equates to 40mm lowering...

cheers

dom

What do you mean by "raise about 21mm which equates to 40mm lowering..." ???

[TU-Tuning]

Think he mean 'Raise TO about 21cm to equate to 40cm lowering' mate, as it says the arm is 25cm below the shell as std

[Toad]

I think I get you. I wouldn't advise using a calculation such as that, there's a far better way of doing it.

Once you've taken the damper off, but BEFORE you take the torsion bar out, measure a point in a vertical line from the arm to something that isn't going to move, such as the arch or ground even if you like. Once you take the torsion bar out, the arm will just swing down like this: :homme: so make sure you have something underneath to catch it. I use a jack, as it comes in handy in just a moment. :)

All you have to do now is lift the arm up (I use the jack) and set it to where you want your new ride height to be. To get the ride height correct, you need to take into account the weight of the arm, as this will throw out the calculation a little. It's said that 5mm is a good amount to assume for this. So let's do an example: When you took your first measurement, you found that from point A on the arm to point B on the ground, the distance was 40mm. You want to lower the rear by 30mm, so raise the arm with the jack so points A and B now have a distance of 75mm between them. Why 75mm? Original distance between A and B (40mm) + Desired amount of drop (30mm) + Estimate for weight of the arm (5mm)

Do it this way chap and you won't go wrong. :)

[Mr_suv]

was just about to pretty much write what toad wrote thats the best way

[d4r3n]

I think I get you. I wouldn't advise using a calculation such as that, there's a far better way of doing it.

Once you've taken the damper off, but BEFORE you take the torsion bar out, measure a point in a vertical line from the arm to something that isn't going to move, such as the arch or ground even if you like. Once you take the torsion bar out, the arm will just swing down like this: so make sure you have something underneath to catch it. I use a jack, as it comes in handy in just a moment.

All you have to do now is lift the arm up (I use the jack) and set it to where you want your new ride height to be. To get the ride height correct, you need to take into account the weight of the arm, as this will throw out the calculation a little. It's said that 5mm is a good amount to assume for this. So let's do an example: When you took your first measurement, you found that from point A on the arm to point B on the ground, the distance was 40mm. You want to lower the rear by 30mm, so raise the arm with the jack so points A and B now have a distance of 75mm between them. Why 75mm? Original distance between A and B (40mm) + Desired amount of drop (30mm) + Estimate for weight of the arm (5mm)

Do it this way chap and you won't go wrong.


repped.