View Full Version : drive shaft fitting
messi
12th May 2010, 15:17
can anybody talk me tru fitting both drive shafts plz:wall:
addyjj
12th May 2010, 19:26
1) Loosen off passenger wheel bolts
2) Jack up car (on passenger side) / making sure that the wheels are straight
3) Remove wheel
4) Drain transmission oil
5) If you want to be careful remove the ABS sensor from the hub carrier (optional but at your own risk)
6) Loosen the drive shaft nut / may require punch / Chisel to release the nut
7) Make sure hub is straight
8) Get a mate to hold down the brake pedal and then undo and remove the drive shaft retaining nut
9) Remove lower arm from the hub carrier / this may require taking the drop link off and or anti-roll bar end off depending on model of car (you will soon see) To remove lower arm, lever it downwards so that the ball-joint tapper is free from the hub carrier (be careful not to damage ball joint rubber protector)
10) Release the hub from the drive shaft splines by pulling outwards. You can use a soft / rubber hammer to gently knock the shaft out of the hub carrier. Make sure the drive shaft is supported when taking it out
11) Once out check to see if the oil seal needs replacing if so replace it.
12) Fitting the new drive shaft is a reversal of taking it out
Drives Side
1) Carry out steps 1 / 2 / 3 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 + if your car has no intermediate bearing then follow the other points 10 / 11 / 12
2) However if you have an intermediate bearing carry the points 1/ 2/ 3 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 and then
3) Slacken off the two intermediate bearing retaining bolts and then rotate them 90 degrees so that the off set heads are clear of the bearing outer race
4) Again remove drive shaft spline from the hub carrier
5) you should then be able to slide the drive shaft out of the intermediate bearing holder (if it does not want to come / they normally don't in my experience and you do not have the required tools do the following)
1. Take off the intermediate bearing holder, it should be secured by 3 bolts if I remember correctly
6) Check oil seal again and replace if needed
7) Fit new drive shaft
8) If you removed the bearing holder take off old shaft and place onto the new one
9) Fitting is a reversal of removal
10) Once all drive shafts are fitted and the car is back on the ground you are ready to re-fill the transmission oil. To do this jack the car (it makes it easier) and make sure that the car is as level as possible and then fill.
11) Job done ( I think)
12) Test drive car and make sure everything is ok
Points
1) Make sure that each new drive shaft is the correct one / From experience the ends (spline ends) can be different this normally results in incorrect fitment and eventually a shagged car.
2) Make sure that the drive shaft retaining nut is done up to the correct torque e.t.c
f using this guide you do so at your own risk and I take no responsibility for anything that goes wrong :boxing:I
If there is anything missing I'm sure I will be corrected, happy fitting.
messi
12th May 2010, 19:53
lol ok cheers mate
messi
12th May 2010, 19:55
wot if its just the cv thats split?
addyjj
12th May 2010, 20:23
When you say the C.V I presume you mean the rubber gaiter(s) on the inner and Outer joints. If so remove the drive-shaft (s) as previously described.
If one gaiter needs doing you may as well do all of them so you don't have to go through the whole process again.
However if on inspection once the gaiters are off and the velocity joint are or look shagged then you may as well put new drive shafts in.
If they look ok you can take them apart and throughly clean, re grease and put back together. You can buy drive shaft repair kits from citroen or cheaper from other places (don't skimp and make sure you get the repair kits, rather than putting back to gether with original)
Also when taking the tri-pod joint out make sure you put alignment marks on so that the joint goes back in the way it came out. Furthermore when taking the gaiter off wrap some tape around the rollers if they are not secured (your see what they are when you take them off / out).
Tips
If you see any damage to any of the components / shaft(s) it is advisable to use new drive shafts.
If once re-built you are not happy with them / they don't turn around smoothly e.t.c use new ones.
Hope this helps, sorry this one isn't as detailed but it is normally quicker / cheaper in the long run to just replace the shafts.
If you need any further help let me know.
messi
12th May 2010, 20:46
ok thanks alot mate i fink al just get new front shafts, how much am i lookin at? n how much should labour cost?
addyjj
12th May 2010, 21:07
For the passenger side drive-shaft you are looking at about £60 / £70 ish and the drivers side between £75 / £100. Look around to find the best prices though I needed mine quite quickly so had to pay top dollar for them. Labour wise I'm not to sure as I did them myself, again just get a few quotes as see which is the best. Other people on the web-site may be able to help you on that one ;)
islander1985
9th November 2010, 19:37
once the hubs been pulled off the splines on the driveshaft, does the driveshaft just pull out? or is there a flange on the end which holds it to the engine?
Rhubarb
17th March 2011, 20:27
Oii Oii. I've just ordered O/S/F Drive shaft from here. Turned up the next day £35.99 + P&P
http://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/citroen/driveshafts/?osCsid=o4shvdqis1bt70s735gshmuo07
Billylewis
25th March 2012, 10:41
Hi, I am a newbie to citroen. I bought a little saxo 1.1 x for work. for £200 smackers T&T. It came with two second hand driveshafts. Fitted them yesterday..a doddle. Thing was, and I have just read above about sizes are different, the splines on the replacement ones were longer and visible where the nut goes. I happened to have 2 large washers, I had to file out the I.D. to go over the splines so as to get a proper seating of the nut.
But anyway, thanks to Rhubarb and Addyjj for the info on the driveshafts. >>>onwaaaarrrd!
Mr_P
25th March 2012, 10:46
Hi, I am a newbie to citroen. I bought a little saxo 1.1 x for work. for £200 smackers T&T. It came with two second hand driveshafts. Fitted them yesterday..a doddle. Thing was, and I have just read above about sizes are different, the splines on the replacement ones were longer and visible where the nut goes. I happened to have 2 large washers, I had to file out the I.D. to go over the splines so as to get a proper seating of the nut.
But anyway, thanks to Rhubarb and Addyjj for the info on the driveshafts. >>>onwaaaarrrd!
Sounds like you've fitted the wrong shafts mate. Did you check whether the surface that seats on the bearings matched? I.e. both tapered? or both flat?
There's a photo in this link to show you what I mean.
http://www.saxperience.com/forum/showthread.php?t=373471
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