Knocking, vibrating/shaking/juddering under braking

[baker556]

Slight problem with the car, recently has developed a shaking/juddering under braking more so under harder braking.

Also have a knocking/clunking noise when i turn the wheel not all the time, more so under stand still so theirs more pressure/forces being applied to actually make the part move for it to knock.

What could it be?

Currently replaced droplinks and track rod ends then had the tracking sorted, once the new track rod ends had been put on there was more 'feel' to turning the wheel and the judderness under braking.

Im thinking this could be ball joint, doubt it would be top bearings or mount to make a clunk, shockers seem fine and no apparent leaks, spring also sits nicely in its cup. Brakes and discs are not warped and have thousands of miles left in them.

So balljoint but would a balljoint cause a knocking/clunking noise could it be a engine mount or gearbox mount as the wheel turns causes the gearbox to move maybe, haven't ruled out driveshafts but there packed with crease and seem fine, could it maybe even be a hub bearing, let me know what you think guys and girls...

[scrim]

could well be driveshaft wether its packed with grease or not it would still knock, my driveshaft was knocking when i turned, that was full grease/no split boot.

[Mochachino]

Check, wishbone ball joints as youve said.
Top mounts bearings. Warped discs for the juddering. Lower engine mount, driveshafts, wheel bearings and the strut bit where the wishbone ball joint goes into.

[baker556]

Ok db sax but how do i check items like this, ball joint gaiter isn't cracked or anything, wishbones look fine to me, brakes are fine, top mount bearings are fine, engine mounts may have slight play, not really sure on the drive shafts and how to i check a wheel bearing i've wobbled the wheel and their seems to be no play.

What about driveshafts they look ok to me, but how to check if there dead..

[Mochachino]

You can get the wheel free in the air and get a crobar in and see if theres any play between the ball joint and strut.

For the driveshafts, the boots might be fine but just no grease inside, or check the inside of your wheel to see if theres loads of grease all over it etc.

Wheel bearing is just wobbling the wheel tbh.

Was it you who made a thread the other week about the topcap that keeps the damper in the strut? If it wernt then check that.

Check the nuts and bolts on the calipers aswell.

[Sparco_Tom]

discs would sort the juddering out. Maybe new pads if there is uneven wear on them too

[baker556]

You can get the wheel free in the air and get a crobar in and see if theres any play between the ball joint and strut.

For the driveshafts, the boots might be fine but just no grease inside, or check the inside of your wheel to see if theres loads of grease all over it etc.

Wheel bearing is just wobbling the wheel tbh.

Was it you who made a thread the other week about the topcap that keeps the damper in the strut? If it wernt then check that.

Check the nuts and bolts on the calipers aswell.

Erm yeah the gold nut to do up to the strut thread was me, and i've tried tightenning it but it won't budge theres still thread showing so i will give that another go, might take some snaps later to see what you think.

discs would sort the juddering out. Maybe new pads if there is uneven wear on them too

I have the 266mm set up they squeel like a bitch ! Might go take a look but their relatively new...

[SteveWC]

Erm yeah the gold nut to do up to the strut thread was me, and i've tried tightenning it but it won't budge theres still thread showing so i will give that another go, might take some snaps later to see what you think.



I have the 266mm set up they squeel like a bitch ! Might go take a look but their relatively new...

Did you apply copper grease to the brake pistons and back of the brake pads to prevent squeeling?

[baker556]

Did you apply copper grease to the brake pistons and back of the brake pads to prevent squeeling?

Yeah loads did that twice lol, it stops for a few months or so, then comes back only under light braking at town speeds 20-30mph.

[Sparco_Tom]

squeally brakes just adds to the "track look"

[baker556]

squeally brakes just adds to the "track look"

Lol, i don't want the 'track look', i just want them to stop squealing and serve there purpose.

[Sparco_Tom]

:) have you got the right discs and pads for the calipers. as there are 2 types but can be made to fit

[Mochachino]

squeally brakes just adds to the "track look"

lol, will be the new 'saxp massive' trend now you mentioned track and squeally brakes in the same sentence.

[baker556]

:) have you got the right discs and pads for the calipers. as there are 2 types but can be made to fit

Yes !

Trust me it was a dilema after all the ones i did try so many differnt offsets i could have actually died, 206, berlingo, xsara soo many differnt ones in the end.

But yeah got the correct ones i the end which were berlingo, as the calipers did come off a berlingo i also had to grind the lip of the carrier, will go take them off in a minute as this had worried me that the caliper is infact loose, re-grease the pads and locatitie the bolts up.

[baker556]

lol, will be the new 'saxp massive' trend now you mentioned track and squeally brakes in the same sentence.

today i sprayed WD40 on my brakes for track orientated sounds..:zainy:

[Mochachino]

Yeh the calipers can come loose quite easily. I though i had done mine tight enough the other week. Good job i tested then checked everything was tight as they had come loose on both sides! Some strong threadlock and plenty of lb torque. Not too much to snap it though obv..

[baker556]

I torqued them up to the correct setting according to haynes think it was 110.

[theoldgaffer]

The knocking when turning is driveshaft. Well..might be. Mine kocked a lot. If i was in a lower gear/ accelerating it knocked more. Changed it a and it fine now.

[Sparco_Tom]

normally a ball joint

[baker556]

Right well to update this, took the calipers off greased the pads back up put them back on thread lock and torqued them up to 120nm as per haynes.

Also greased both cv joints and greased other areas to help protect, also painted rusty spots checked all fixes and fittings.

So far no knocking and no squeeling ! Great Success.