1.1 Brake upgrade?

[Lyum]

Basically I drive a 1.1 Forte, mk2, and i was debating changing it but now have decided to keep it and im keen to make some changes. First off being the brakes, I have alot of play in the pedal and the stopping power is poor to say the least, Ive had the drum shoes, and cylinders replaced a few months back, and new pads on the front but still not what I want.

Just wondering if anyone can give me any pointers, Im quite new to this so was wondering if an upgrade to maybe VTR or VTS brakes would be possible. Any help much appreciated :y:

[Rudpud]

I aint amazing with breaks, but mine have play in them too lol, my dad just says its down to age nd that old brakes aren't good like newuns

[Morgzc]

VT brakes will bolt straight on to the struts, for the rear you would need a whole new rear beam and need to modify the handbrake.

[AXracing]

Just wondering if anyone can give me any pointers, Im quite new to this so was wondering if an upgrade to maybe VTR or VTS brakes would be possible. Any help much appreciated :y:

The sportier models (VTR/VTS) have more heat capacity in the brakes but are not actually all that different in power and feel. If you have big enough wheels you can fit better brakes as fitted to some 306s, 205s and the likes and this will gibe you more power. Though you will likely have to fit there larger master cylinder as well to sharpen up the peddle feel.

[Liam_]

The VTR/ VTS vented setup is a good upgrade if yours is a 4 stud. They fit under the 14" steelies too.

Make sure you get the VTR/ VTS caliper bolts to fit them - the 1.1 ones are no good.

[Lyum]

VT brakes will bolt straight on to the struts, for the rear you would need a whole new rear beam and need to modify the handbrake.

That sounds expensive am i right? And i take it just uprating the fronts is pretty pointless too lol.

Im on VTR alloys atm, hadnt planned on changing them either :/

[Liam_]

Leave the drums as they are imo. VTR/ VTS setup on the front will feel much better.

[Lyum]

And that will just be a straight swap if I go and buy a VTR front set up?

[Liam_]

Yip. You need the VTR/ VTS calipers, the VTR/ VTS bolts for them, discs and pads.

[Lyum]

Any chance of a rough figure off the top of your head for that lot?

[Mikol]

That sounds expensive am i right? And i take it just uprating the fronts is pretty pointless too lol.

Im on VTR alloys atm, hadnt planned on changing them either :/

Exactly wrong.

The fronts are everything, the rears you can forget about.

[Cammy]

Or if you really wanted a 1.1 that stopped, why not go for the 406 brembo setup? with a 23 master cylinder, imo would cost a little more.

[Noddy]

My front VT brake upgrade was under £100 for everything. That was calipers, discs, pads, 23mm MC, and exact braided lines. The difference it has made is great!

[Lyum]

Ok then cheers, VT set up sounds like the simplest and the most reasonably priced, ill have to get a quote on the parts thanks :) :y:

[Killeybh]

get a apir of second hand vtr calipers off here, ull find some lying around. ive changed my set up and had a vt rear axle. stopping power is a bit better and since i bled the breaks i have barley any play in the pedal at all. however the real difference is stopping at high speed 60+. Not a hard job to change them and the new rear axle only took 3 hours.

[Lyum]

How much the new rear axle cost you? An did you change it yourself?

[LSOfreak]

the rear brakes only do like 20% of the braking, you mayaswell leave it. dont pick up brand new calipers they will cost a fortune, put a wanted thread up in the section and someone will deff have a set of fronts

[Noddy]

Its pointless in changing the rears, its too much cost compared to the amount of braking done on the rear. Just leave it as drums.

To get a reasonable setup you'll need

VT calipers (and bolts)
Discs and pads - i use Mintex discs and M1144 pads.

optional extras

Braided hoses
23mm Master cylinder

The latter 2 are not immediately required, but i've added these to increase the firmness in the pedal.

It is a very simple job, everything is a straight swap. Just make sure you have some brakeline spanners as rounding the nuts is something you really don't want to happen.

[Lewis]

Just put good quality disks and pads on then adjust the pedal so its more responsive. Then fresh fluid and bleed the breaks

[Liam_]

As above, I'd leave the original master cylinder on and adjust the 'brake bar' for a better feel. Steve on this forum did a guide on how to adjust it.