air lock , i dont know

[dictap]

Ok, daughters vtr, i've been trying, and trying and trying to bleed the coolant system, i've done it before and was good. Now, i have my expansion bottle, i have followed the guide to the letter, letting the fan kick in, bottle fill up then suck the coolant back in, after bleeding the three points that is. Car has ran for an hour idle with fan starting and stopping at just above halfway point, all seems good. Heat coming from blowers, warmest ever. She takes car out for work, within 10 mins red light is on on the temp guage and fan continuosly on, but guage marking at normal halfway reading., there has been some coolant loss but not a great deal. Do you think its just an airlock thats being a stubborn mover

[Dean-VTR]

did you rev the engine while the bleed nipple was off (the one just left of the engine as if you were looking at it from the front of the car)?

Might force a little bit more air out. thats what i did when i did my coolant change.

[Oc2]

The red light isnt a temperature thing?

My temps been up 3/4s and its never been on, thought the red light was oil pressure?

i could be drastically wrong and look like a twat, but ive just bled my system because there wasnt any antifreeze, so it overheated, but i chickend and pulled it just below the top and no light

[outrage_uk]

Was there pressure in the expansion tank? Sounds like it could be the head gasket - have you checked for other symptoms?

[outrage_uk]

The red light isnt a temperature thing?

I think he means at the very top of the temperature gauge there is a red light (same as the orange petrol light)...

[Oc2]

yeah, mines on before i start the engine, "click 2" i just thought it was a pressure thing, engine not running, no oil pressure, light on, engine starts, pressure, lights off

(citaaation needed)

((Water pressure, same shit))

[dictap]

I think he means at the very top of the temperature gauge there is a red light (same as the orange petrol light)...

Yeah thats the light im talking about. Im not too familiar with these cars, although i do now know the bleeding procedure. HGF did enter my mind, but having had two rover engines with HGF im pretty sure it isnt that (well i hope). theres no mayo signs on the oil cap or inside and no excessive loss from the exhaust. Baffling how all seems ok when idle but when on road it happens

[stevo67]

The light on the top of the temperature guage comes on when you turn the ignition key then goes off.Its there to tell you(& lights up)with the engine running to tell you its overheating.

Steve.

[sophie19vtr]

had same problem with my vtr , the engine froze up cuz i had no anti freeze temp was running normal but red light was on so was the fan , checked for an air lock , took the top left hand bleed nipple of revved the engine till it squirted out the water and now bobs your uncle it runs better than before i had the problems hope that helps

[dictap]

this is what im not undertstanding. all three bleed valves had a constant flow of water from them, blowers were nice and warm, all seemed fine

[RustySkull]

Hmm I'd bleed it again, sounds like it may have an air lock. Or your temp sensor is dead and thinks it's hotter than it is.:new_year:

[Manu]

park the car up a slope, bleed it. then park the car down the slope(so the air bubbles shift), and bleed again. Rinse and repeat until it's done.

[RustySkull]

Normally if you have idle at around 2,000 it pushes the air out. :)

[dictap]

ok ty for all your replies, i will be flushing and bleeding the system tomorrow all being well, now that i have unfrozen the damn thing. All the pipes seem clear of water now anyway.
Is there anywhere that explains in which direction the water travels in the system. Am i correct in thinking from where it is filled, does it then travel via wheel arch pipe to the engine, then to the matrix and out down to the stat then to the radiator. Oh and where exactly is the water pump.

Thanks for reading and taking the time to reply again folks :)

[RustySkull]

ok ty for all your replies, i will be flushing and bleeding the system tomorrow all being well, now that i have unfrozen the damn thing. All the pipes seem clear of water now anyway.
Is there anywhere that explains in which direction the water travels in the system. Am i correct in thinking from where it is filled, does it then travel via wheel arch pipe to the engine, then to the matrix and out down to the stat then to the radiator. Oh and where exactly is the water pump.

Thanks for reading and taking the time to reply again folks :)

The water pump is on the Cam Belt. The belt drives the Pump also.

And yes the water flows that way :)

[citroen_saxo_vtr]

Haynes manuel is your buddy for what dirrection the water flows, it flows anti clock wise i think, well mine does.

[RustySkull]

Haynes manuel is your buddy for what dirrection the water flows, it flows anti clock wise i think, well mine does.

Yeh I found that it came out of my heater Nipple before the Thermostat Nipple, so it must flow that way lol.

Plus if you think about it, the way the pump turns, it will turn that way :D

[dictap]

quickie question. I have ran two big pans of warm water through the system with rad off, all seems fine and its flushed the system. connected all back up, filled and bled the system. Went to start the car, flat battery, i'm going to jump it later when i get back home, but took the key out, and the cooling fan kicked in !! Whats going on there ?

[RustySkull]

quickie question. I have ran two big pans of warm water through the system with rad off, all seems fine and its flushed the system. connected all back up, filled and bled the system. Went to start the car, flat battery, i'm going to jump it later when i get back home, but took the key out, and the cooling fan kicked in !! Whats going on there ?

Confusion that's what's goin' on lol.

Your battery may not be flat.
Did it stay on if the battery was disconnected?

[dictap]

disconnected battery and it went off, connected back up and stayed off. My mates saying maybe water on connection plus flat battery. Going to jump it off and take it from there so fingers crossed

[dictap]

Car started ok with a jump. Fed 4 or 5 jerry cans worth of water through the system and was well satisfied no air left in. Ran with expansion bottle for another half hour, nice heat form blowers and water level holding ok. Added the anti freeze bleeding from top nipple.
Removed the bottle and excess coolant from expansion tank and rad cap on. Still looking ok, guage steady just under halfway after 20 minutes idle. Took the revs to 3500, guage went to just over halfway and the fan kicked in, brought it back down and shut off ok.
So i'm happy her car is now ok on this side of things, shes out in it later so fingers crossed yet again

[dictap]

early update :(. Shes taken the car out, done about a mile and her fan is on constant and red temp light is on but no coolant loss. Also she has just had her temp and petrol dial drop to zero then go back to normal again, so i think theres an electrical fault somewhere so thats out of my hands, any takers on fault ?

[dictap]

this is just what happened last time because when i thawed the engine out, all pipes n rad were still full with water :S

[dictap]

deffo an electric fault, looked at car, no coolant loss. i should be enjoying my 2 weeks off work but got it under this fookers hood. battery is losing charge, as said before, dials dip then come back on, temp high light is on but dial ok on halfway. What should i look at first cos im at at a loss now, was well pleased with the bleeding side then this happens... daughters gutted but me 10x the work ive put in but il keep on with advice

[RustySkull]

deffo an electric fault, looked at car, no coolant loss. i should be enjoying my 2 weeks off work but got it under this fookers hood. battery is losing charge, as said before, dials dip then come back on, temp high light is on but dial ok on halfway. What should i look at first cos im at at a loss now, was well pleased with the bleeding side then this happens... daughters gutted but me 10x the work ive put in but il keep on with advice

I'd check all Fuses, for a malfunctioning one.
Make sure the fan connecter if on right, makes sure the Temp Sensors are on right, not loose.

Other than that I'd say get a Diagnostic tester on it... :wacko:

[dictap]

went to start it this morning, dead, even jumpers wopuldnt start it. daughter was going on about some dodgey earth wires someone had done, so, off to breakers, different (better) earth leads on and struck up straight away.
Decided to do a bleed test again with coke bottle. Something isnt right. It keeps filling the bottle up, sucks it back in then rad starts. When the bottle is full, if i bleed the therm point, i get steam coming out til the bottle empties, is that right.
The thermostat on these cars, is it mounted (fixed) inside the plastic housing, i ask because the old one doesnt look anything like what the book says it should in the shop. Even the alone thermostat (not built in housing) in the shop is bigger than the one that was in the car origionally

[dictap]

fook it, heap of crap is going, things back pressuring now, gasket or pump shot :wall:

[RustySkull]

fook it, heap of crap is going, things back pressuring now, gasket or pump shot :wall:

Aww man! Another Saxo? Lol

[RustySkull]

Try a new Thermostat?

[dictap]

done that, even tried no therm, no good

[dictap]

Offers considered. X reg. new clutch, replaced gearbox, new rad + fan, new power steering motor, 19 inch alloys, new starter motor, new headlights, new o/s drive shaft. See above for ongoing problems. Thankyou and goodnight