Sub wiring

[DazzerVTR]

I'm currently using an Autoleads 8awg wiring kit, it was hard enough feeding this size powercable thru I'm dreading ever upgrading to 4 or 2.

I'm just wanting a little advice, I'm pretty much a novice so please go easy. I have enough knoledge to wire a system up and to set up amps, not to use 6x9's etc.. but lacking in the technical side.

1. Is it worth buying "Subwoofer Wire" from Halfrauds, yes it looks rather pretty and it a lot thicker than what I'm currently powering my sub with, which is speaker wire from the wiring kit so it's proper stuff not too thin but I wouldn't call it thick - would I notice an increase of power if I uprated the wire whilst leaving the power cable etc.. at 8awg I think I'm running a 70amp fuse of the top of my head - could be wrong!

2. Is there any mods I can do to the sub box which are worth while, it's a premade box so I dont know if its already been done but im thinking on silicon sealing all the edges and putting a bit in the sub screw holes to keep it airtight.
Also I heard you can pad the sub box to improve bass it that true?

3. Would it be worth while putting maybe flash tape around the speakers in the door cards to help sound proof?

Thanks!

Just looking to improve a few things tommorow.

[DazzerVTR]

Also
My amps are currently laying (secured) on my boot floor is it possible to mount them to the rear of the back seats on a VTR as I'd love a little bit of boot space.
I think I've tried before but it just punched a hole in the metal under the carpet.

[lilsax]

Alright mate is the sub box a band pass, sealed or ported box, i was running 2 12" Vibe black air subs in a Vibe box which was ported front and back i found that if you had the back port 2" from the rear seats it made the bass thud deeper than when it was close to the rear seats

Sealed - Dont try to modify the box as you will only make it sound worse just try silicone sealent inside over all the joints to help seal it more

Bandpass - These are already sealed and dont need anything doing to them

Ported box - Try placing the port 2 or 3 inchs away from a solid panel

Is the sub box the correct dimensions for the sub(s) you are using as different subs need different size sub boxes also different subs run better in different types of boxes.

With fitting the amps to the rear of the seats you can do it but if the screws used are to long the rear passengers will feel them. why not try a false floor and have the amps under the sub box but leave enough space between the false floor and the amps as they get hot and need the space around them so they dont over heat.

Using the autoleads wiring kit are good if you are having a basic set up but you will get better quality if you use thicker power leads the best is 0 gauge wire but its that thick its hard to run through the car try using 4 or 2 gauge wire, the best way of fitting this is get a cone cutter for you drill and a gromit big enough for the wire and drill a hole in the bulk head minding anything under the dash were you drill.

As for the rear 6x9s if you put them in boxes it aks like a sub but you still get the vocals clear as this stops the vibrations of the subs pushing the cone on the speakers up when they want to move down, if you are running the speakers in the shelf dont point the subs upwards have them facing the rear seats or do a boot build thats if you dont mind having a boot this is not a weekend job.

For the front doors your best getting dynamat and put 2 layers on the doors and the rear quaters and 3 layers in the boot on the floor, sides, and boot hatch will help the sound quality and you wont loose bass through the thin panels.

Everything i have put above helped me get 149db using 2 subs front mids and tweeters, 30 channel EQ, Active crossover and 2 amps.

Hope this helpslet use know how you get on.
Mark

[YM03]

you don't mention what stuff you are running, what makes your sub,amps fronts?
as for 6x9 yes you can put them in box's best box is the bin!!! the problem with 6x9's is it drags all the sound into the rear of the car.

wiring depending on what your running you'll be best off going for 4awg, and it's not that hard to run( I've got to run 0awg that will be fun), your sub wire I would upgrade.
have you upgraded the big three? thread at top of page explains
all
dynomat front and depending how much your willing to spend on it do the full car

[DaveWard]

Its easy up uprate the power cable once you have a cable throughthe gromit. Just tape the new wire to the old and pull it through.

If you put silicone anywhere near the sub box dont mount the sub in it for at least 24 hours as the gas given off by the silicone curing will damage the sub.

Any sound deadening is a bonus a cheep and simple one to do is stuff the tailgate full of lost insulation.