Aftermarket heaters

[Aaron]

After a aftermarket heater

I've been told 200w is not good to use in a car?
So stick under 200w

So any reccomendations/links?
Something to clear windscreen etc.

[-GG-]

I'm after a similar answer.

Once the heater matrix has been removed, what do people use to clear the front screen?

Anyone tried anything that was really good/bad?

Cheers

[Paul]

You can actually buy heated windscreens. I was going to buy one last year. Ended up getting rid of the 106 though.

Not sure how good the heated windscreens are though?

All them heaters that plug into cigarette lighter on ebay are terrible. I had 3 in one of my cars, just didnt work.

Another previous saxo i had removed all the heater matrix plastics, fans, vents, dashboard etc, and just left like the small radiator. I ended up breaking that saxo though, didn't drive it, so can't really comment on how it worked, or if it was any good?

[axsaxoman]

why remove it in the first place --
heated front screen will cost you over £300,AND THAT WILL NOT GIVE YOU VENTILATION ,JUST HEAT

[-GG-]

why remove it in the first place --

Save weight? :ponder:

[DanGT]

I took mine out to save weight. The standard 'snail' and assosiated fan, pipe work, matrix etc weighed around 12kgs. I also lost about a litre of coolant from the system (something to bare in mind if you will still be using the car on the road) and there isn't much holding the dash together afterwards. LOL.

I then bought 2 electric ceramic cheapy ebay heater things, fudged them together and wired a dash switch up. It works pretty well, but having said that I have blocked off the passenger side of the windscreen demister in the dash, so it only blows on the drivers side (only really need to use it in emergencies when racing).

It cost me £22 for both heaters and I had some RTV lying around. Also made an ally bracket to hold them so I know it wont fall out! All together it weighed 2.5kg, so a decent saving. I think they are 180w but it shouldn't make much difference using 200w. just make sure when you wire them in that wiring and fuses are upto the job. a 200w motor will draw about 16amps @ 12volts, so make sure you use a feed with 20amps or more from the fuse box.

Dan

[axsaxoman]

yes it will save weight ,but electricity to power them is still required and the loss of cooling fluid is not a positive in my book ,the blower motor on std unit will not use 200w u less on full speed ,so you will be using more power and therefore more bhp lost to run the alternator .
now if you say the difference is so little --then you have negated the reason to do it in the first place and have a very poor replacment for the orginal unit into the bargain


saving of 10kgs--go for a run and keep off the burgers and have a good shit before racing that will save you alot more lol

or you could just put a proper set of lightweight wheels on save alot more weight or dump the power steering and save 15kgs and build up some muscle at same time

Me I,ll keep the ventilation the power steering and leave it another 10yards before i hit the brakes --thats worth another 1 second a lap at least or 20bhp

[Gabbastard]

Id agree with John, wouldnt bother ditching all that for the tiny weight saving. Id rather lose similar weight off the front end with a fibreglass bonnet/wings.

[-GG-]

saving of 10kgs--go for a run and keep off the burgers and have a good shit before racing that will save you alot more lol

or you could just put a proper set of lightweight wheels on save alot more weight or dump the power steering and save 15kgs and build up some muscle at same time

Me I,ll keep the ventilation the power steering and leave it another 10yards before i hit the brakes --thats worth another 1 second a lap at least or 20bhp

Id agree with John, wouldnt bother ditching all that for the tiny weight saving. Id rather lose similar weight off the front end with a fibreglass bonnet/wings.

Both of you are stating, "i'd rather save this weight by.."

I'm not asking about how to save only 10kg's..Its about how to save as much as possible.
Rather than finding a way to save 10kgs in other places - remove the heater matrix etc. AND do afore mentioned things (such as lighter wheels, fibreglass front end etc.) saving more weight in total?

[Gabbastard]

If thats your aim, rip out the door inner skins, remove the bonnet stengthening inner, swiss cheese the everything else with a hole saw?

The point I was getting at is, for the cost and hassle, 10kg from the middle of the car is going to have next to no effect on balance/handling and will make near as dammit to no change on acceleration.

[-GG-]

Thats a bit clearer..

Surely. every little bit adds up though :ponder:

[axsaxoman]

Both of you are stating, "i'd rather save this weight by.."

I'm not asking about how to save only 10kg's..Its about how to save as much as possible.
Rather than finding a way to save 10kgs in other places - remove the heater matrix etc. AND do afore mentioned things (such as lighter wheels, fibreglass front end etc.) saving more weight in total?
how deep are your pockets and what is your target weight or bhp per tonne
you can get carbon fibre doors ,bonnets ,roof skins ,tailgates ,muluitpiece rims that can be only 4kgs each in 8 x 15

[mark1311]

how deep are your pockets and what is your target weight or bhp per tonne
you can get carbon fibre doors ,bonnets ,roof skins ,tailgates ,muluitpiece rims that can be only 4kgs each in 8 x 15

only thing is dont get carbon fiber roof if your entering stuff where car needs log book as its a no no. but if u just doing track days then there fine.

like above said butcher everything. i put my plasma cutters though my doors removed about 22kg from front doors.

[DanGT]

yes it will save weight ,but electricity to power them is still required and the loss of cooling fluid is not a positive in my book ,the blower motor on std unit will not use 200w u less on full speed ,so you will be using more power and therefore more bhp lost to run the alternator .
now if you say the difference is so little --then you have negated the reason to do it in the first place and have a very poor replacment for the orginal unit into the bargain


saving of 10kgs--go for a run and keep off the burgers and have a good shit before racing that will save you alot more lol

or you could just put a proper set of lightweight wheels on save alot more weight or dump the power steering and save 15kgs and build up some muscle at same time

Me I,ll keep the ventilation the power steering and leave it another 10yards before i hit the brakes --thats worth another 1 second a lap at least or 20bhp

The trouble is with racing in my championship, the regulations are pretty tight. We can't change the wheels from standard VTR ones and everyone is on the same tyre. Also with a minimum weight to reach (910kgs with driver adn fluids), my goal wasn't about shaving as much weight off as possible, it was to be able to move the ballast weight where I wanted it. I have removed the PAS/door skins/for the same reason. I did urge caution if using the car on the road as the loss in coolant will have an effect on how quick the car exceeds operating temperature, like sitting in traffic.

With the alternator causing extra drag, yes it will, but it is possible to interrupt the supply if at full throttle for example. Also, I only use it if I REALLY need it, which is rarely. As you mentioned cost, I reckon a nice lightweight set of wheels would cost you more than £22 for a couple of heaters. If using the car on a track day then you don't even need to run an alternator. A normal battery will provide 30mins of full speed racing even with the heaters on.

Cheers

[Dave_P]

I fitted one of these.

http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/Electric_Demist_Heater_DEMST

Haven't had to use it yet though...

[Gabbastard]

On a semi related note, a very thin smearing of washing up liquid on the inside of the windscreen will stop it misting up.

Guy I know who raced in the Seat cup said thats what everyone used to use.

[wolf_gsxr]

On a semi related note, a very thin smearing of washing up liquid on the inside of the windscreen will stop it misting up.

Guy I know who raced in the Seat cup said thats what everyone used to use.

That brilliant haha. But won't it make the glass "smeary" if that's even a word lol

[axsaxoman]

The trouble is with racing in my championship, the regulations are pretty tight. We can't change the wheels from standard VTR ones and everyone is on the same tyre. Also with a minimum weight to reach (910kgs with driver adn fluids), my goal wasn't about shaving as much weight off as possible, it was to be able to move the ballast weight where I wanted it. I have removed the PAS/door skins/for the same reason. I did urge caution if using the car on the road as the loss in coolant will have an effect on how quick the car exceeds operating temperature, like sitting in traffic.

With the alternator causing extra drag, yes it will, but it is possible to interrupt the supply if at full throttle for example. Also, I only use it if I REALLY need it, which is rarely. As you mentioned cost, I reckon a nice lightweight set of wheels would cost you more than £22 for a couple of heaters. If using the car on a track day then you don't even need to run an alternator. A normal battery will provide 30mins of full speed racing even with the heaters on.

Cheers

yes the unit you are referring to to disconnect the alternator is called a frepwr --we have been supplying them for over 10years.#
no argument about cost of wheels they will cost agreat deal more but have more advantages than just weight saving.
alot of people also want to use non std "racing " batteries --they will not be as forgiving as the std type of battery and certainly would not cope with current draw from std electric power steering..
I would never run a car with no charging system +there are not many race formulas that allow it anyway
only single seater races i think
If allowed I would suggest swopping std alternator for a much smaller unit + fitting a larger pulley ,providing you are not running power steering ,but there are lots of ways ,so as you have pointed out ,so you must read the race regs to see what you can do before planning anything

[Harv]

Definitely agree with John about this one. I've had the old track car thing and been through that stage. Saving 10kg's here and there is bollocks! Get out there, do 20+ track days and learn how to handle a car before saving kg's. A standard saxo driven by an experienced driver will be faster than ANY lightened saxo! I've seen near standard saxo VTR's pass throttlebodied and caged VTS's that look like every panel has been cut out of them, simply because the driving ability isn't there.

Everytime I've been to Anglesey I've become quicker and quicker. Braking was pretty much as late as it could be with my brake setup and I was lapping 'track VTS's' quite easily. For the amount you will have to spend taking the heater out and replacing it with something suitable - get some tuition! On a race car or hill climb car its a different scenario!