Some Lexia 3 questions for a MK1 VTS

[emmeff]

Hi guys.

So i got one of those lexia 3 obd interfaces. It all works well and that.
But...

It said it had logging features which it kind of does. All-be-it a simple snapshot feature. Not exactly what i was looking for.

I was hoping it would be a bit more detailed than what it is. A graph/trace feature was what i was expecting and what i got was far from it.

I basically still have bad idle/stalling problems after changing all sensors etc. And the Lexia shows no fault codes apart from the immobilizer being dissabled, which was caused by fitting a new and obviously un-needed unlocked ECU. Also it can't communicate with the air bag circuit for some reason. I'm guessing the ECU company has disabled this too which is also pretty annoying.

I guess my question is, is there any other software or does anyone have any advice for Lexia 3, for a MK1 VTS that will graph the sensors while i'm on the road? So i can see what happens when the car stalls.

My only next option is to buy a few discs from ebay for a few ££'s to see if there is anything i can use.

Cheers.

[stevo67]

Not unless you want to invest several thousand pounds in either a snap-on/modas scanner there isn`t i`m afraid mate.

[emmeff]

Well that would suck balls.
Its pretty shit that this thing won't draw a graph of what's happening.

[stevo67]

Well that would suck balls.
Its pretty shit that this thing won't draw a graph of what's happening.

You get what you pay for mate.

[emmeff]

So here's a question about the reading the lexia software gives.

I'm especially interested in the O2/lambda reading.
Should it fluctuate so much. I mean its never stable, always moving.
You never really get a chance to see if it stays at .45v.

I've read you get a stable reading with a multimeter.

I just wondered if this was normal for lexia or I have some other problem.

[TommyMalvern]

Sorry this is an response to an ancient thread.... but did you ever get anywhere with this?

I also have mk 1 VTS and have an intermitant idle problem. Like a lot of people from what I can tell.

I was going to but a Lexia 3 reader also but I don't want to waste my money!

Can't help feeling like it's a head gasket problem! Compression test was ok though?

[CarlStinson]

you could try torque app with a bluetooth obd adapter to your phone

[TommyMalvern]

Thanks for your response.

Would that give as much information as the Lexia 3 reader tho?

[AdamH]

I use car gauge lite and torque lite with a Bluetooth obd reader

can customise the display for various gauge etc but the lexia will ultimately give you more

[emmeff]

Hi there :) Before I ended selling the car, I figured out it was one of the temp sensors. What threw me off was that I'd already changed them both. Turn out one was faulty. :/

[TommyMalvern]

Thanks for getting back on here to answer my question! Can you describe the problem you had with idlling?

Which temp sensors did you change? Assume you mean water and air temp?

[emmeff]

If memory serves, there's an engine temp sensor and Coolant temp sensor. Cap colors are green and blue. I'm not sure which one is which. The bad idle and stall mostly happened when warm. One of the sensors would give a bad reading to the ecu and it doesn't give the correct fuel mix. Or something along those lines :)
Hope that helps ;)

[TommyMalvern]

Ok, that makes sense. Did you get like a lumpy chugging idle? Mine shakes the engine when it's bad.

[welshpug]

green is for the ecu, blue is the gauge and stop light.

blue will not affect engine.

[TommyMalvern]

I had the green one changed when I got the car and it made no difference. Are there different ones, would it be possible the wrong one was installed?

Is there a way to know if the sensor is faulty? Could it be an issue with the wiring to the ECU...?

[welshpug]

yes, look up the resistance values and test it, also test the wiring, very possible that is faulty too, especially at the age even the newest Saxo is.

[TommyMalvern]

So I'm looking at the Haynes wiring diagram.... I'd be best to test resistance at the ECU pin to start with (saves ripping out the air box to access the sensor itself).

Does it mess anything up if I unplug the ECU??

[emmeff]

Might be a silly question, have you thought about coil pack or spark plugs?

[TommyMalvern]

Nope not silly at all. Just changed spark plugs and a new coil pack.... sadly no change or improvement. I'm trying IAT sensor now. Car had a new coolant sensor when I first got it and a new lambna sensor too.

It runs sweet when first started from cold but get lumpy as it warms up but also not a constant issue. Frustrating!

Tends to smell of unburnt fuel also.

Is this similar to the issues you had?

[emmeff]

Yes very similar :) I figured the fuel smell on mine was from over fueling caused by the sensor fault. It went away when I changed the sensor again.
Best of luck with yours, keep at it ;) it's a fun car. Mine lasted me 7 years! \0/

[TommyMalvern]

Id love to get it sorted, I've put up with it for sooo long now! Time flies right. Realised recently I've had it 4 years and done 30k in it now... and bascially just lived with the issue. Still makes good power at full throttle over 4K revs 😁. Getting it rolling roaded next week too. Be interesting to see what it makes at 18 years old. Still 100% standard too.

Why did you sell yours? How much did you get for it?

I bought it for £410 off eBay with 68k miles on it. The last phase 1 VTS on eBay went for over a grand. That was a red one tho and mines in a better colour - Mauritius Blue.

[TommyMalvern]

Had a good result from changing the Inlet Air Temp sensor yesterday. Reset the ECU also. Seems to be running stronger and with a smoother idle. Not perfect but definitely improved. Still idles around 1000rpm. Does anyone else experience this?