Pedal Box issues

[MR_N]

I've heard that switching to a pedal box and removing the servo can be a bit 'tricky' to get used to. What is meant by this, how do the brakes feel and work differently with a pedal box.
Just wondering for future reference.

Regards


Sam

[Dave_P]

Hard & wooden.

[adamskiTNR]

They definitely vary more. Usually takes a few combinations of master cylinders/calipers to get a feel You like. You will struggle to get the right pedal ratio in a saxo though,as the seat cant be shifted back. Underslung would be your best bet

[dannygti]

Which is not easy due to the shitty position of the column.

It is possible though

[MR_N]

Thanks guys

[axsaxoman]

my advice ,unless its a left hand drive --forget it --not a simple job and results are not inspiring --just get all your std linkage adjusted right .
left hand drive --yes it works great as no cross linkage and master cylinders can be in engine bay

[adamskiTNR]

You wouldn't need the cross linkage with a pedal box that didn't utilise the servo

[slammed106]

Which is not easy due to the shitty position of the column.

It is possible though



anything is possible!!

floormount is tricky as you lose legroom

overslung is tricky as dodging the steering colomn and gumpf under the dash is tricky..

it can be done though, if your doing it yourself aim for 6-6.2:1 pedal ratio and then be prepared to play about with master cylinder sizes..

[axsaxoman]

there are 3 different makes of pedal box that i know of and i have either seen cars with them fitted or tried to fit them my self and none of them fit and work as well as you would want .
there are no cheap master cylinders of the correct size to make them work as you would want .you can buy AP racing pull cylinders and make a complicated reversing linkage but they are £250 each + reservoirs and then making all the lionkage to suit
and there is not enough room to get to a nice 7-1 ratio or even 6,6 unless you are going to totally remake everything under the dash and move the heater motor .
what the car really needs is a 25 or 26mm master cylinder + the servo
the servo unit has a ratio of 8-1 ,so to get same pressure at wheels without servo you and fitting two master cylinders of say 16mm compared to std of 22mm you can see that the effort on the pedal will rise by at leat 60% to get same pressure at wheel,then you ift large pistomn calipers which require more fluid movement and the pedal travel increases.
al the pedal boxs i have seen are nothing like 7-1 ratio even though they say they are .
before you do it find a car with one fitted and drive it ,
bottom line is you need 100bar of fluid pressure at the caliper to get the right braking with a low pedal pressure and short pedal travel ..
the car does just noy lend it self to a simple after market pedal box,car was never designes to be RHD drive with linkage .
so anybody wishing to make the ultimate saxo should look to going lhd ,not only for the brakes but the wieght distribution and other reasons as well.
that why when we raced the AX we used a LHD car
--and i offered to get them made years ago ,but as usual there was not enough people willing to pay £140 a unit to make it happen .

[dannygti]

I think I have found the best solution, I'll post pictures shortly

[adamskiTNR]

Only pedal box i rate is the AP ones. I have installed one tilton, but they were always complaining of awful inconsistency on the brake bias bar.
The AP ones are jolly expensive, and was usually run with a massive box of master cylinders with quick releases to change per track and per driver. Whole bloody hour of every practive session was getting the brakes right.