Log in

View Full Version : rear coilover conversion


saxosam1993
15th January 2013, 22:53
hello is it possible to remove the torsion bars on the rear and use coil overs instead, someone my mate knows done it to his Peugeot which is the same set up as the saxo, is there a kit u can buy to do this or have u gotta modify the rear axle to make it work?
thanks sam

dannygti
15th January 2013, 22:56
Not really worth it for most applications. These car reli on less grip on the rear to allow the car to turn in and handle as they do. There aren't any 'kits' that I know of. Your best bet is better torsion bars, high quality dampers and then trim the handling with the appropriate ARB's

saxosam1993
15th January 2013, 22:58
cheers mate any ideas on where i can get better torsion bars from?

wadoryu
15th January 2013, 23:43
There is an epic guide on rallye register, and you'll get more answers on the conversion as a few have done it on there.

gazza808
16th January 2013, 00:08
Turret the rear,
Leave the torsion bars in,
Run low poundage springs to top up the bars essentially,
Drill an tap the stub axles so you can bolt your shocks to them,
I'm in the process of doing it, but I'm 6,000miles from my car so pics aren't possible.

m4tt274
16th January 2013, 00:18
i dont think it would be difficult, just weld up two turrets and look into the beams from some other FWD hatches. I know that MGZR's run essentially a piece of angle iron with a spring and bearing at either end.

LSOfreak
16th January 2013, 00:38
am i right in thinking the benefits of doing this arent worth all that time and money, unless the car has the engine in the boot?

gazza808
16th January 2013, 00:44
Cost me very little as I acquired the shocks very cheap, springs were 40quid a pair, and I did all my own sheet metal work.
I can change the springs in 5mins a side to any spring rate I want, an new springs only cost 40quid a pair,
For some one who is never going to change their setup it's pointless.

KamRacing
16th January 2013, 11:00
Why keep the torsion bars. I didnt.

Its completely pointless on a road car to be honest. Its real advantage is going to be when racing where you may want to adjust the balance of the car with different dampers and springs. The 1:1 suspension/damper also movement gives a more compliant ride when bouncing off the curbs. I found the ride less nervous and far more stable when cornering.
Whether its faster on a single lap time is debatable but it may aid consistency over a number of laps.

Its a lot of expense for a road car that will not be adjusted in its lifetime

Kev

gazza808
16th January 2013, 11:16
I kept the torsion bars in mine because I don't want to be relying on one bolt each side to keep my arms on.

LSOfreak
16th January 2013, 12:11
Cost me very little as I acquired the shocks very cheap, springs were 40quid a pair, and I did all my own sheet metal work.
I can change the springs in 5mins a side to any spring rate I want, an new springs only cost 40quid a pair,
For some one who is never going to change their setup it's pointless.

fair enough if you can do the welding yourself, is it quite alot of work for someone paying someone else to do it?

Gordon
16th January 2013, 12:54
Has anyone ever tried simply replacing the rear dampers with a pair of shocks off a mountain bike?

My race bike shock is valved to cope with a 600lb spring on just shy of a 2" stroke, but you can get shocks with much longer stroke than that for more travel. Seperate high/low speed compression and rebound plus preload adjustment (giving your height adjustment) would be in reach even on a moderate budget.

Stock torsion bars plus a mild shock spring, with the damping valved against the total spring rate. Done?