View Full Version : Runnin Warm - 2 Warm
VTS_16v_Boy
21st August 2006, 11:26
Hi guys, Has anyone here ever had any troubles with VTS runnin warm?
The needle sits just over half way on a run but once hitting traffic it creeps up pretty quick and last couple of days its been really hard to get in down.
Its not hitting the red but its not far off, I check my water weekly, got a good mix of water/anit-freeze, and only had a new rad fitted about 8months ago.
Has anyone had trouble like this?
The cars a Phase2 VTS, runnin Induction kit, Janspeed Manifold (Heat Wraped) Sports Cat and Cat back exhaust.
Was talk on here the over week about wrapped Manifolds keepin the Heat In the Block but I've had wrapped Mainfolds before ona XR2i and a Mini and never had hot runnin problems?
:wacko:
DazzerVTR
21st August 2006, 11:28
My VTR sits above halfway and goes upto 3/4 mark so does quite a few others on here.
bunce1986
21st August 2006, 11:49
mine at the mo is hitting red light...??? so..
scook
21st August 2006, 12:22
my vts runs hot lately too , it sits at 1/2 but as soon as i it a bit of traffic it goes up to about 4/5 (couple a milimeters of the red) , never seems to go in the red though, think you will be alright as long as it doesent go in the red
bunce1986
21st August 2006, 12:25
my vts runs hot lately too , it sits at 1/2 but as soon as i it a bit of traffic it goes up to about 4/5 (couple a milimeters of the red) , never seems to go in the red though, think you will be alright as long as it doesent go in the red
mine keeps on going on to red light, that really bad??
Mystic
21st August 2006, 12:31
Well it aint good, thats y its red :P
Couldnt u buy another radiator fan n stick it in the spare slot in the front of the car? Next to the other fan.
Or rig up a manual switch for the one u have so u can keep it runing if ur in traffic etc?
saxodanvtr
21st August 2006, 12:35
its gona get hot if your sat in traffic isnt it when your moving its cool enought isnt it?!
mac24
21st August 2006, 12:44
everyday running mine sits half way but jus done sum motorway driven an it was running nearly at the top of the gauge, s**t ma self wen the light cum on but luckily no damage or nowt
VTS_16v_Boy
21st August 2006, 15:21
:thumbup:
Thanks Guys, Thats a Real help.
Cant belive how helpfull it is to be able to talk to other Saxo owner about stuff like this.
Keep up the good work.
Hope some of my information has been helpful to people.
Mystic
21st August 2006, 15:25
Couldnt u buy another radiator fan n stick it in the spare slot in the front of the car? Next to the other fan.
Come to think of it, would that accutally work, anyone done it?
DAZ1985
21st August 2006, 16:15
Maybe changing the coolant and completely flushing the rad and block out might help
Worth a try before buying a new radiator i think !!!!
Im sure i've read somewhere that the water/anti-freeze mix will loose its cooling properties over time meaning hotter running temps
(I might be wrong so feel free to correct)
abu
21st August 2006, 16:20
you might have an air lock try bleeding the system
DAZ1985
21st August 2006, 16:27
you might have an air lock try bleeding the system
You might be right their never thought of that (Have a rep on me) Wouldn't do no harm to do change and bleed as well
DazzerVTR
21st August 2006, 17:14
You shouldn't see it go above 3/4 if the fan is functioning as on the 3/4 mark thats when it kicks in.
Maybe get a slightly colder thermostat(sp?) would that work?
kornlover30
21st August 2006, 17:19
So many saxos run really warm dont worry about it till the light comes on!
Johnno
21st August 2006, 17:42
manifold wrapped. that will heat it up abit more........
williamsvts
21st August 2006, 18:41
mine never goes above 1/2, i also have a wrapped manifold and that doesn't effect it.
if you want your temps down fit an oil cooler.
marc666
21st August 2006, 20:33
mine goes a fraction over 1/2 but then the fan kicks in
Karl
22nd August 2006, 10:42
I spoke to Citroen about this
they just said Aslong as it isnt constantly dinging the red, you have no problem.
VTS_16v_Boy
22nd August 2006, 12:54
Well I topped up on anti-freeze this morning while filling the tank, it seem ok today. I'll keep my eye on the problem.
Cant be an air lock as my heater works, I had a air lock when the new rad went in about 6months ago but got it out, could have fried eggs on the rocker cover wen the needle hit the red :wacko:
One over thin does the plastic mesh in the mouth of the front bumper come out easy?
I think might try that as well get some more air on the rad.
scook
22nd August 2006, 13:04
Well I topped up on anti-freeze this morning while filling the tank, it seem ok today. I'll keep my eye on the problem.
Cant be an air lock as my heater works, I had a air lock when the new rad went in about 6months ago but got it out, could have fried eggs on the rocker cover wen the needle hit the red :wacko:
One over thin does the plastic mesh in the mouth of the front bumper come out easy?
I think might try that as well get some more air on the rad.
dead easy remove the front bumper and it just clips out , you will have to find a way to secure the fog light cables as these run through there also
DAZ1985
22nd August 2006, 14:33
One over thin does the plastic mesh in the mouth of the front bumper come out easy?
I think might try that as well get some more air on the rad.
In all fairness i cant see that removing the plastic mesh is going to gain any better cooling
Might look different though :D:
VTS_16v_Boy
24th August 2006, 11:20
On the way home the other nite it got Hot again so I pulled over in a layby I got out and after turnin the engine of and as usual the rad decided to dump half its contents all over the floor (Now this is not because Im over filling it because if I was it would find its own level after a few trips and be fine, but its not cos it still gets hot) so I checked the water on the ground and it wasnt very hot (at all) I even stuck my finger in the rad and you cant do that if its working rite!
Rite airlock, been here before! so I empty about 2-3ltrs (Always carry plenty of water, Cos u never know) so that the water level reached the top of the rad neck, loads of bubbles kept comin out and wen I checked the temp gauge the temp began to fall and settle@half way.
Sorted (Or so I fort), I got home and the needle didn't even flinch so before I turned it off I checked under the bonnet, & everything was fine, gave it a good few minutes of revin it pretty hard just to make sure (still all fine, no spills or leaks and the temp gauge still read 1/2, good) then as soon as I turn it off . . . yep it chucks most of the water on the floor. I know the water in the block has to go somewhere but somethings not rite.
At 1st I fort it mite have been faulty rad cap but I've got a spare and the samethin happens. Again some will say 'Its just findin its level and gettin rid of wat it don't need' but even if you leave it and don't top it up it still keeps leavin puddles under the car then it starts to get hot agin on runs :upset:
The water only comes from the cap, there are no other leaks.
Could it be termo or water pump problems? or Headgasket? (Ive checked for white sludge but no sign.
Where does other peoples water level sit in their rads wen cold?
liam_b
4th October 2006, 23:25
what was it?
SaxoAL
5th October 2006, 09:04
In my opinion, that sounds like a thermostat which isn't opening..
s8x0-vtr
5th October 2006, 10:20
i dnt think its a thermostat problem.when u were reving it hard for several minutes it would of overheated fairly quickly.wen ur driving it wont overheat as quickly because u have the air coming into the front of the car onto the radiator and the engine which in turn with the fan cools it down what u need to do is find the coolant pipes find out which pipe goes into the car and which pipe brings the water out of the car one should be hot and one should be cold
another way is to see if ur heating is working properly if it isnt then u have a thermostat problem or possably a matrix problem if its the matrix then its not related to ur problem
A thermostat opens to the temp of the water usually between 89 to 92 degrees but varies with manufacturer
when the water becomes hot the thermostat opens and allows cold water into the engine to cool it down so its possible this may have be one of the problems in ur engine but in the event of this ur engine would overheat and u said that urs didnt at the time of revving it it.
it may be possiable that one of the water ports in ur engine has become clogged. this will still allow water to go through ur engine but not this particular port as it is clogged so this will cause a restriction in water flow wich will cause added water pressure to the sytem and decrease the cooling effect
it is also true that water and its cooloant does loose its cooling properties and the system should a have a full drain and refil with new coolant every two years
in my opinion i would drain the system completely and check the thermostat if u no where it is clean it up abit but u will need to make a new paper gasket out of special gasket paper so dont attempt to do this unless u no what ur doing otherwise u can just drain the system completely top up with new antifreeze and water u need to have a 50% mix so say if ur coolant capacity is 4 litres u need 2 litres of antifreeze make sure u measure it out and tht u no the right capacity.
when u have done tht get hold of some water coolant flush i think iu mix it with the water have to read it see what it says u should b able to get some from motorworld or halfords u no the sorta place pop it in the water or do wat it tells you and tht should clean all the gunk from the hoses and inside the water ports think it just dissolves it into the water so dnt worry bout it clogging up your rad it should clean it up well for u
hope this helps took me a while to type so it better had hehe
abu
5th October 2006, 15:04
as above - it will be the thermostat you can test this by tying a string to it and placing it in a boiling pan . as the water comes to the boil the thermo should open .i had the same problems with my radiator dropping its load and it turnd out to be a number of things
thermoswitch £7
needed bleeding make sure you bleed both the radiator and the housing near the top left of the engine
radiator cap was leaking ever so slightly but enough to release pressure
i had exactly the same problem my fan wasnt kicking in so made car temperature rise ended up buyin a new thermostat and a fan switch both cost less than £20 quid and easy to fit!!
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