View Full Version : please help
morgan1501
5th May 2013, 23:46
Hi every one new to the site was hoping someone could help me out as i am stuck.
ive got a year 2000 saxo 1.0L with some break problems.
first when i got the car the breaks weren't very good so i changed the pads as they were worn.
when i put the new pads on the breaking was still the same very weak.
second, so took them off again and re fitted them hopeing i might of missed something and they have seemed to get a little better.
but now i have a kind of burning smell, and the right front break is getting very warm and i cant even touch the wheel after a 20 min drive.
is there anything i could try.
ps. also the break pads they have a grove down the middle of them, are they ment to match up or be offset.
many thanks
chris
Hazmanscoop
5th May 2013, 23:59
Sounds like your brakes aren't coming away from the disc when you're driving.
The burning smell and heat is coming from the fact that this is happening! Sounds like your caliper may be seized or once you press the brakes the pressure isn't resetting properly.
Where the caliper a hard to put back on after changing the pads?
And the groove is a wear indicator. Once they wear down to the line, it's advised they are replaced.
I'd try and bleed the system and see if it solves it?
morgan1501
6th May 2013, 00:04
hi thanks for your reply
i could push the piston back with my hands.
and i have bled them till no more air comes out.
any tips on bleeding and the spring clips could they have anything to do with it
chris
morgan1501
6th May 2013, 00:10
also i wanna changed my disc but the two screws that hold the disc on have been rounded off so i cant get inpact driver into them
what can i do
'
chris
Hazmanscoop
6th May 2013, 00:45
No tips for bleeding, if you've got all of the air out then that's all that I can suggest. Is the brake pedal "spongy" or not? As if it is there will still be air in there.
Obviously not seized if you can push it in...
The two screws aren't important, if you can get something to create a pattern on the top of it? Like hammer a screwdriver into it or something? Then take them out. Or try and get something onto the edge and just snap the head off?
They aren't important, they don't hold weight or anything, just there to make putting the discs back on easier when the caliper a off.
morgan1501
6th May 2013, 00:49
the break pedal gos near to the bottom before anything will really happen.
chris
Hazmanscoop
6th May 2013, 00:51
That doesn't sound right...
You should feel them pretty quickly.
Is the fluid at the correct level? Have you bought the correct pads?
I'm not sure if there is an adjuster for brakes?
morgan1501
6th May 2013, 00:56
ive got the right pads ino that and the fluid is at it max.
at 30 there ok ish
and emgeny stop they dont pull you forward like other breaks do.
could the master cylinder be goosed.
blackie_2k5
6th May 2013, 01:24
Sounds like you've got a few issues
First off, 1.0 brakes are fucking terrible.. I'd upgrade if keeping the car a bit, but moving on... Sounds like you've got air in the lines or you m/c or servo is goosed, BUT it also sounds like you've got a sticky caliper
woah. Change discs / pads / fluid and do check the whole system + master cylinder for leaks.
morgan1501
6th May 2013, 09:57
they are pretty crap breaks anyway and the disign of them is rubbish never sin anything like it lol
chris
Hazmanscoop
6th May 2013, 09:58
That's French for you!
morgan1501
6th May 2013, 10:08
so to do list for to day .
1. recheck pads.
2. blead system again
3. check master cylinder
4. and check everywhere for leaks.
does that sound cool.
danny-vts
6th May 2013, 11:28
so to do list for to day .
1. recheck pads.
2. blead system again
3. check master cylinder
4. and check everywhere for leaks.
does that sound cool.
And change discs :)
citroensaxo
6th May 2013, 16:39
Dear morgan1501,
You can remove your rounded off screws that are holding your brake discs to the hub, by spraying the heads with penetrating oil, and then using a round flat headed drift onto the head of the screw and belting the drift very very hard with a lump hammer, the shock loosens the screws enough for you to tap them anticlockwise with a bluntish flat chisel
Vince,
vBulletin® v3.8.2, Copyright ©2000-2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.