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pedromakarachi
16th February 2015, 18:50
I've removed the EBC front discs off my car and they are shot to hell. My question is, with my new standard discs, can I lay the EBC discs over the standard discs, clamp and using a pillar drill, drill the same EBC hole pattern into the surface of the new disc.

Thus meaning I can drilled standard discs? The size is the same and I cannot imagine the metal composite being any different between the discs.

Alfie09
16th February 2015, 19:01
No they will crack and fracture then fail in no time

And your insurance company would go mental if they found out

MartinObviously
16th February 2015, 19:35
You should always avoid drilled discs, only discs with cast holes are acceptable, or "dimpled" and grooved discs.

KamRacing
16th February 2015, 20:19
Why didnt you buy some new EBC Discs?

Alfie09
16th February 2015, 21:29
Why didnt you buy some new EBC Discs?

Why would you buy ebc discs there products are shit

Alanapone
16th February 2015, 21:40
Dude, do not drill disks!! Just get standard ones, they do the job fine. I run the maxtorq group N discs with mintex m1144 pads and they are pretty awesome stoppers!!

KamRacing
17th February 2015, 12:04
Why would you buy ebc discs there products are shit

Because he's already had them and decided they work good enough that he would drill some plain discs.

MuZiZZle
17th February 2015, 12:08
Amazing!

pedromakarachi
17th February 2015, 13:24
The EBC discs were off my old Peugeot and still had plenty of life left in them.

And my question was one of curiosity as to whether drilling standard discs was a known practice or if anyone had carried it out.

I'm not that impressed with the EBC discs performance, hence why I haven't bought a new set.

I've already decided on my brake set-up of standard discs, braided hoses and uprated pads. Just thought I would ask the question

KamRacing
17th February 2015, 14:25
The quality difference with Brake discs (http://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tuning/citroen/citroen-saxo/saxo-brakes/brake-discs.html) is usually is in the continuity of material used between multiple batches, so on Brembo I can swap one side and not worry that braking performance will vary, iron composition for wear rate and noise levels, and then the internal vane design for cooling.

Most drilled discs are drilled after casting. This is why they tend to have a shorter life on the car as they will crack. With the modern performance pads on the market these days really drilled just looks nice when used on more open wheels.
Grooved discs can help debris removal from between the disc and pad, but also increases pad wear to de-glase pads should you overcook them.

Your best braking upgrade (if keeping to the same size disc as standard is the brake pad (http://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tuning/citroen/citroen-saxo/saxo-brakes/saxo-brake-pads.html) compound itself.

axsaxoman
17th February 2015, 16:01
I am guessing that the car dives under braking --showing rear bias is not correct --so front pads over heated--just a guess

pedromakarachi
18th February 2015, 13:35
The quality difference with Brake discs (http://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tuning/citroen/citroen-saxo/saxo-brakes/brake-discs.html) is usually is in the continuity of material used between multiple batches, so on Brembo I can swap one side and not worry that braking performance will vary, iron composition for wear rate and noise levels, and then the internal vane design for cooling.

Most drilled discs are drilled after casting. This is why they tend to have a shorter life on the car as they will crack. With the modern performance pads on the market these days really drilled just looks nice when used on more open wheels.
Grooved discs can help debris removal from between the disc and pad, but also increases pad wear to de-glase pads should you overcook them.

Your best braking upgrade (if keeping to the same size disc as standard is the brake pad (http://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tuning/citroen/citroen-saxo/saxo-brakes/saxo-brake-pads.html) compound itself.

That's the best advice I've received. Thank you. I am going to be going for EBC yellow stuff as my budget won't extend to Carbon Lorraine pads

I am guessing that the car dives under braking --showing rear bias is not correct --so front pads over heated--just a guess

The car doesn't dive under braking but your bang on with the rear bias being incorrect. Under heavy braking it has locked the OSR rear wheel, hence the rear beam I'm rebuilding with a new compensator valve and brake overhaul and service.

KamRacing
18th February 2015, 14:41
The CL Brakes (http://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tuning/citroen/citroen-saxo/saxo-brakes/saxo-brake-pads/citroen-saxo-vtr-vts-front-brake-pads-cl-brakes-rc6.html) are really for race use only. My personal favourite for road use is the Mintex M1144 (http://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tuning/citroen/citroen-saxo/saxo-brakes/saxo-brake-pads/citroen-saxo-ferodo-ds2500-brake-pads-vtr-vts.html)

Alanapone
18th February 2015, 18:22
The CL Brakes (http://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tuning/citroen/citroen-saxo/saxo-brakes/saxo-brake-pads/citroen-saxo-vtr-vts-front-brake-pads-cl-brakes-rc6.html) are really for race use only. My personal favourite for road use is the Mintex M1144 (http://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tuning/citroen/citroen-saxo/saxo-brakes/saxo-brake-pads/citroen-saxo-ferodo-ds2500-brake-pads-vtr-vts.html)

I run the M1144's, their a bit dusty but by god do they stop well!!

Alfie09
18th February 2015, 19:08
I wouldnt put any ebc product near my car again!

Honestly spend a bit extra and buy quality first time