View Full Version : Vents
deano_123
9th October 2015, 13:00
Finally took the Saxo for a drive today, first time in like 3 years? With the lack of blowers/ matrix and amount of carbon/ plexiglass on the car it gets pretty hot pretty quick inside.
What options do I have on vents? I was thinking a couple naca's in the side windows with ducting but not sure how beneficial these will be?
Alanapone
9th October 2015, 13:02
Could do and see if you can get some cylindrical dash vents to direct the flow or see if you can find a roof vent like on the clio cup race cars.
deano_123
9th October 2015, 15:43
I'm not cutting my carbon roof so a roof vent is a no go.
Dash vents, where do I route the air from as I have no blowers etc
KamRacing
10th October 2015, 07:43
Is it a pure track car or a road car?
deano_123
10th October 2015, 16:13
Is it a pure track car or a road car?
Track car
KamRacing
12th October 2015, 11:26
If its garaged then I'd just cut some holes to vent hot air out of the rear quarter windows.
deano_123
12th October 2015, 13:00
Think I'll try a couple of these in the rear window
http://www.plastics4performance.com/accessories/pop-it-vent-large.html
vtectransplant
12th October 2015, 17:59
I had naca ducts on mine, with two outlets. Both pointed at the engine but you could use the same and point towards you?
Can just about see them on here
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/12/a7daaba87bad59359493a207592d89f4.jpg
Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
axsaxoman
14th October 2015, 06:38
my advice is refit heater system -maybe too hot now --but as soon as it rains it will steam up very badly
the extra weight of the heater system is bugger all for the extra cooling you can get and keeping the windscreen clear and warm on usual uk wet days
minimum would be to fit a heated front screen --about £300 i think --but wouldn,t be my choice--that saps power
deano_123
14th October 2015, 08:51
my advice is refit heater system -maybe too hot now --but as soon as it rains it will steam up very badly
the extra weight of the heater system is bugger all for the extra cooling you can get and keeping the windscreen clear and warm on usual uk wet days
minimum would be to fit a heated front screen --about £300 i think --but wouldn,t be my choice--that saps power
I have a heated screen already. The screens fogging is what has put me off just drilling holes in windows as moisture will get in.
Worst case I'll fit a dash top blower for the screen but I'm assured the heated screen should be enough
axsaxoman
15th October 2015, 12:06
you will get staming up from your breathing unless you have ventilation .also water being brought into car on your feet or slightly damp clothing ,never mind the sweating you will be doing if your trying --so that is why I would leave std system in --
i take it you have dumped all the glass and window winders --?
if you have not sealed the lexan in -not just rivetted it ,you wil get water ingress + then steaming up if its a wet day without a good flow of air through--for the wirght idf i just keep off the brake longer .LOL or get some more bhp
deano_123
15th October 2015, 12:22
Lexan windows are sealed and I have the usual door/ boot rubbers in place however there are plenty of areas where water/ moisture can enter. Think I'll look into a dash mounted heater
Luckily I'm a fair weather person so dont like the rain/ cold/ wet
sexy_gt
15th October 2015, 13:06
How much power are we talking about for heated screed drain on engine John ?
KamRacing
15th October 2015, 16:03
surely not considerably more power drain than the heater blower?
deano_123
15th October 2015, 16:59
surely not considerably more power drain than the heater blower?
Given I literally have lights, engine, fuel system and digidash that's a lot less than a standard cars draw on the battery so shouldn't be noticeable? Although I am running a lithium battery which just about turns the engine
axsaxoman
16th October 2015, 07:47
fuse on hrw is usually 30 amp --so must be 15 amps draw -lot more than rest of engine demands all together for sure -- max on engine is usually the fuel pumps --
std car does not draw much in the day time or dry weather --
power steering on a saxo has an 80 amp fuse as well so that could be biggest current draw
never been convinced of the gain from using a very small battery in a "tin top"--and suffering poor starting and extra cost and relaibility issues with fancy batteries
a single seater with no lights no wipers etc --ok - the actual weight percentage differnce on total car weight on a hatchback is very small when its 800 kgs or more--
single seater at 300kgs its bigger percentage difference
deano_123
16th October 2015, 09:05
80 mile round trip this morning in the Saxo in the rain to get the digidash calibrated, no issues with using lights/ wipers/ screen whilst sat in traffic. Was quite surprised how well the heated screen cleared the screen when it started to cloud in traffic.
Furthest I drove the thing on a road, my feet are still freezing and I can still hear the fuel pump buzzing in my ears
KamRacing
16th October 2015, 10:53
so basically you need the heated screen on a relay so its off when you apply full throttle :D
axsaxoman
16th October 2015, 11:53
so basically you need the heated screen on a relay so its off when you apply full throttle :D
you mean the "freepowr "
we have been selling for the last 8years +
menat to disconect alternator on full throttle ,but could be wired to disconnect anything you like
sexy_gt
16th October 2015, 12:43
Cheers john :)
KamRacing
16th October 2015, 13:19
you mean the "freepowr "
we have been selling for the last 8years +
menat to disconect alternator on full throttle ,but could be wired to disconnect anything you like
I did think of that as I wrote. Thinking about it you only really need to disconnect the alternator as thats whats creating the parasitic loss on the engine, the screen only drains from the battery...
axsaxoman
19th October 2015, 07:41
It all gets complicated + extra expense --hence why I would keep std heater system as it is.
also gets expensive if you get a broken windscreen
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