Sticking to the original or bias valve?

[VeiRoN]

I'm replacing the original front brake lines due to usual corrosion so I'm also using better quality material,when it comes to the rear brake lines though what worries me most is the rear brake adjustment valve that will probably be well corroded.

Since I'm already replacing a part of the line and thinking if I should go the extra way and replace the whole circuit,however what should I do with the rear adjustment valve? Should I just replace it if needed or just ditch it and use a bias valve mounted inside the car as well as the lines which will then divide and go to each of the rear calipers?

Keeping in mind that I would like to keep about the same adjustment of the original valve.
I never tried an aftermarket bias valve and I don't know how good they are in and out of the track.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[VTR_Craig]

I have redone all my brake lines on my VTS track car. I have changed the master cylinder to a 4 port & ditched the abs. I blocked a port on the MC and run a single brake pipe through the car with a bias valve at the handbrake, then at the rear I have a T piece which splits to the rear calipers etc.

I have struggled to get the bias valve set up right and I gave it maximum bias for a track day to be sure the rears didn't lock up and I burst the new brake piping (at the rear) on track. I made up some new piping and ran it for a few months on the road and burst the piping in the same place again. I have redone the piping in nickel kunifer (sp?) piping and adjusted the bias valve again but then the car has been sat all winter so I'm not sure if I have cured the issue.

I sort of wished I had left the load sensing valve. If I really knew what I was doing I would be quite happy to play around with the bias valve but I can't understand why it is bursting pipes!

[Gandi699]

Id personally keep it unless you really need to be able to adjust the rear bias on the fly. well that or you simply cant find a new replacement valve.
providing your pipes for the brakes are ok i'll be a lot simpler to fit too rather than having to make up a load of new pipes for the rear, which in itself isnt too bad but still more effort

[VeiRoN]

I have redone all my brake lines on my VTS track car. I have changed the master cylinder to a 4 port & ditched the abs. I blocked a port on the MC and run a single brake pipe through the car with a bias valve at the handbrake, then at the rear I have a T piece which splits to the rear calipers etc.

I have struggled to get the bias valve set up right and I gave it maximum bias for a track day to be sure the rears didn't lock up and I burst the new brake piping (at the rear) on track. I made up some new piping and ran it for a few months on the road and burst the piping in the same place again. I have redone the piping in nickel kunifer (sp?) piping and adjusted the bias valve again but then the car has been sat all winter so I'm not sure if I have cured the issue.

I sort of wished I had left the load sensing valve. If I really knew what I was doing I would be quite happy to play around with the bias valve but I can't understand why it is bursting pipes!

Kunifer seems reliable,it's what i'm using too,is it failing at the flare? If so make sure to use a good quality flaring tool and the correct union and the single DIN flare (not sure about the rear but that's what the front pipes use),I'm using the PowerHand one and once i got the hang of it I've found out I can make good flares consistently,other than that if the pipe is being supported correctly I don't see any reason for it to keep failing after a few months of use.

Id personally keep it unless you really need to be able to adjust the rear bias on the fly. well that or you simply cant find a new replacement valve.
providing your pipes for the brakes are ok i'll be a lot simpler to fit too rather than having to make up a load of new pipes for the rear, which in itself isnt too bad but still more effort

I seriously doubt the pipes will be okay,I've replaced those at the front connecting to the ABS unit and they were well corroded so I'm guessing the ones on the rear being exposed a lot more will be even worse.

If need to be replaced I'll try to find a new factory valve,not too confident I'll find one otherwise I'll just go with an aftermarket one if suitable for my usage.