View Full Version : braided brake lines?
Ben_SaxoForte
24th June 2016, 16:19
Hello again :homme:
Basically I need to replace all of the brake lines that run from the bias valve to the rear calipers (all the lines that run around the axle) I'm wondering whats going to be the best and quickest way to replace them, should I just go and get copper line and rebuild it or would I be able to run braided lines all the way from the bias valve to the calipers? (I'm thinking that could save me a lot of time if possible and a good upgrade)
MuZiZZle
24th June 2016, 18:06
Copper, then braided
VeiRoN
24th June 2016, 19:18
Kunifer,that's what I'm using as well,braided will cost a fortune and from what I know a rigid pipe will be better performance wise.
Furioman
24th June 2016, 19:37
second kunifer
Ben_SaxoForte
24th June 2016, 21:20
Sorry to sound like a div but what is kunifer? also if I go for solid lines and then braided where do the braided ones start and end? as there are already some flex parts which go around the top of the axle would the braided lines replace that part aswell?
VeiRoN
25th June 2016, 08:27
Kunifer is copper plus nickel,it's highly resistant to corrosion,you can just copy the same configuration as the standard otherwise can make you own one but you would need a part with some flex for the trailing arm movement.
Phaeton
25th June 2016, 11:26
Sorry to sound like a div but what is kunifer? also if I go for solid lines and then braided where do the braided ones start and end? as there are already some flex parts which go around the top of the axle would the braided lines replace that part aswell?
Yes you can buy them as a kit, they are not that expensive, bit awkward to fit laid on your back but not too bad
Ben_SaxoForte
25th June 2016, 12:03
Ah ok I think I understand now I will go for the Kunifer pipe then and maybe upgrade to some braided lines for the flexible parts. Any recommendations for a flare tool?
Axle and lines are all off the car so hopefully shouldn't be too difficult to copy them and then bolt it back up with the lines attached to it.
Phaeton
25th June 2016, 12:45
I have One of these (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10PC-DOUBLE-PIPE-FLARING-TOOL-KIT-MECHANIC-BRAKE-DIES-/371662277616?hash=item5688cc4bf0:g:IScAAOxygPtS-gV8) pretty cheap, fairly nasty but does do the job, I have always been going to buy a better one, but never get round to it. One of the sons mates has a 'proper' Sykes Pickavant one, which is a pleasure to use, but was over £200
VeiRoN
25th June 2016, 13:10
Ah ok I think I understand now I will go for the Kunifer pipe then and maybe upgrade to some braided lines for the flexible parts. Any recommendations for a flare tool?
Axle and lines are all off the car so hopefully shouldn't be too difficult to copy them and then bolt it back up with the lines attached to it.
I got this one (random listing but the tool is the same):
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pipe-Flaring-Tool-PH-BFT-475-4-75mm-DIN-Powerhand-New-/161353061492?hash=item2591645474:g:LzMAAOSwgkRVU1E c
After getting the hang of it I find the flares it makes to be pretty good,haven't tried them to be honest but I doubt I'll have any problems,one of the flares I've made:
http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r616/Vx4/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0101_zpsw4wugorq.jpg
Phaeton
25th June 2016, 13:45
Just remember the biggest error everybody makes, once you have done one end, make sure you put on your ferrels (end fittings) nothing worse than making up a pipe only to realise you have to cut off one of your perfectly form flares as you've not put them on. There are also 2x types of flare, it should be obvious by looking at the pipe coming off which you need.
VeiRoN
25th June 2016, 14:04
lol happened to me a few times,you will need a DIN also called bubble flare,tubing is 4.75mm or 3/16.
Ben_SaxoForte
25th June 2016, 14:20
That flare tool looks to have done a great job VeiRon, thanks for the photos :y: one more thing I thought of is can the pipe be bent by hand easily or would I need something to properly bend it?
Phaeton
25th June 2016, 14:24
Bend by hand, just be gentle or it will kink, never use a sharp edge like a screwdriver, block of wood with a curve is better, I have bought one of those cheap pipe benders but never really used it, also remember to thread it through all the things before you start to bend it, over axle, under cables, over exhaust etc. not sure which way you are going.
Ben_SaxoForte
27th June 2016, 15:34
Thanks for all the help pretty sure I know what I need now when I get round to it after all the other bits that need doing.. ha ha
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