turbo build questions

[flev93]

after a bit of help/guidance..

I've currently got a 106 Gti with JP4 engine.

few quick questions be much help if anyone can help!

1.where do people get there oil feed from on jp4 engine, on j4 they use the oil switch on my jp4 I don't have one?

2. would this setup be ok? would you change anything?

custom tubular manifold/custom downpipe
garret 1752 turbo
2.25" boost pipes
helix 4 paddle clutch
intercooler
490cc injectors
mocal oil cooler kit
predator ecu


would I need a decomp plate?
would I need a cosworth map sensor?

is there anything else I need apart from the obvious oil feed and return water pipes etc?

would 6-7 psi be ok on standard internals?

sorry for all the questions
thanks

[stevo67]

What I would do is to read the wealth of information on here in the performance section,then if you're still stuck ask a question.

[flev93]

cheers mate I have been looking around getting as much info as I can last few months.

main things really are a decomp plate is it a much what's the advantages or downsides?

and where does the oil feed for turbo come from on a jp4 block?

cheers

[flev93]

edit: is it a must?

[Chipwizards]

I took my oil feed from the M10x1 plug at the base of the oil filter housing. It's post filter.

You can drill the boss on the block where the J4 breather pipe used to go in for the drain, as long as your turbo is mounted high enough.

I use 0.44 bar boost on stock JP4 compression. (11:1)

Knock control is a must on a boosted high comp engine so I'd keep the stock ECU. (and it's free because you already own it)

Decomp plate isn't required at 6psi with knock control.

Megane R26/225 injectors are fine, you don't need injectors as big as you listed.

Don't use a Mocal cooler, use a Setrab one. I've had so many Mocal coolers fail on the dyno, I think they must be imported Chinese garbage now. It says on their website they are British but, looking at the poor quality and finish I don't believe they are. Utter shit.

You don't need a Cosworth MAP sensor, there are MAP sensors that fit exactly as the stock one does. There are early (3-way Junior Timer) and late type (I can't remember the make) connectors and both are available in 2.5 bar absolute ranges, which is enough for 1.5 bar of boost which is much more than you need. Post the part number off your original MAP sensor and I'll be able to tell you what you need to buy. It's a ten digit part number starting 0 261 230 ###

There are lots and lots of other details that make the difference between a good, driveable, reliable, smooth, quick car and an unreliable, leaky, hateful fire-in-waiting heap of corruption.

Heat protection and management are the main areas where people have problems, plus using shit Chinese parts of course. Only buy Genuine parts from the official source to guarantee proper parts. If not the dealers then at least from a Bosch dealer for Bosch parts etc. Before fitting Chinese injectors I'd sooner drink the petrol and piss into the throttle body, the fueling would likely be more precise. :-)