Yes, I've personally heard from people with high performance cars that the small little 'French Tins' are one of the most annoying cars that you can find on a track.

Complete bollocks tbh.

Ive dont track days in a near standard vtr. Did I have fun? yes would be the response to theat.

Its not a race its about YOU having fun, to many people are worried about cock lengths

depends how well driven they are lol

Well i think you could have a bash at a few :y:

Caterhams are a doddle, so is the odd porche, ferraris are rarely driven hard on track days.

The odd cunt turns up in GT3RS's and push it, or at my last day we had a 911 cup car

Get your car serviced first off. Get yourself on track and you will quickly find out what you like and dont like about your car. You can then decide what you want to do with experience of where you felt the car was lacking.

As for brakes, I had uprated pads in my standard vts calipers, I then upgraded to a 266mm setup and I personally felt the 266mm set up was better.

Manic motors ran uprated discs and pads in vts and was more than happy with them and was very quick on croft

thanks for all the replies. i am looking forward to getting out there and enjoying some track time, i dont beleive for a minute it matters what car you have or what engine you dont have. its all experience to make you a better driver! i might look into the 266 set up. will i need to change the master cylinder for this set up or will the standard saxo one be up to it.

appreciate all the positive feedback from you all!

regards to the 266 set up, i havent fitted my M/C yet, but i have one waiting to go on, and if im honest it only feels slightly better than standard without it... maybe because im used to it now but i am upgrading to make it feel abit better.

I havent upgraded my MC and dont feel it is necessary, I have a good pedal feel and the brakes perform well.

If anyones lookign for a 266mm setup Williams can supply these

changing the mc wont affect how the pedal feel as such
it will just alter how much travel there is to get a given force tranmitted to the calipers

its all to do with fluid movement

alot is down to personel taste as to if you change the mc or not

To be honest the brakes are one of the last of the chassis mods to make.

IF you are properly building the car for track use first gut the car and get rid of all the weight.
A lighter chassis brakes, accelerates and corners better and also has less weight transfer forward, making the brakes for effective as there is less kinetic energy to transfer into heat.

Better suspension will reduce weight transfer forward under braking again helping reduce the energy needed to be dissipated

Once this is done, and you have the tyres you are going to use then you look at the brakes, evaluate how effective your current brakes are and the best way to upgrade.

Kev

if you took the time to read the thread and his posts he says he wont be stripping the car as its an every day drive

just wants to improve a few points that will help on track and off it.

improving the way it stops is always a good thing, cant stop fast enough with some of these idiots on the road, and being able to brake later and harder in to a corner will help shave time off a lap

granted he will also need it to handle well aswell but that can be done and still leave the car usable on the road

thanks for all the info. i need to bleed the brakes through anyway as they really do feel poor. one i have done this it might be a good time to evaluate the brake set up to see weather it is worth upgrading the standard pads or to go with gti set up. what size nut are the nipples on the calipers?

It takes 10 minutes to strip the back seats, boot carpet and floor mats out of the car. Id say its definately worth doing before you go on track even if its only a few kg's, and can be put back in in the same amount of time when you use the car daily. Good rubber and a thorough service is what i would suggest doing first.

"I detect a slight agitation captain!"



"cancel that order of bucket seats!"


Ok ;)
Seats can be replaced with lightweight bucket seats. Some are only 3kg each! if you dont want people in the back then you can remove sliding subframes and save a large amount of weight and lower your centre of gravity without loosing comfort.
Moving swiftly on the other two points still apply.
Your suspension will greatly affect weight transfer and better tyres, the co-efficient of friction between the tyre material and the road. These will do more to stop you in a shorter distance than keeping these standard and running bigger disks and calipers.
Once you have the above done then you can apply more braking force before loosing traction, so your standard brakes are more effective. There will be a point where you will generate too much heat and/or can't generate enough braking force to lock the wheels so an upgrade is necessary.
Personally I would keep the disk size to a minimum to save unsprung weight, but would look at 4 pot calipers as these run bigger pads. The larger surface area means they cope better with heat (and alloy calipers weigh bugger all).

After saying all of that though the greatest difference out on track will be you. Your driving style will determine how much heat is generated and how its dissipated. Personally I would take the car out standard at first. You need to learn to be smooth when cornering, making sure you dont overcook your entry speed as this kills tyres, and when braking to make sure you apply the brakes hard (without locking) never softly as the shorter the time you are on the brakes the longer they have to cool ready for the next corner. Understand your car and the track and you will be fast in a 1.1
When I'm racing the better drivers are 6 seconds a lap faster in the same Kart.

Oh. There is a mod you must do.
Get a CG-lock as standard seatbelts are shit on track.

Kev

thanks for that kev. i have been looking at getting some CG locks, my friend has them and rates them. i am going to start looking into changing a few parts before i book a atrack day. :)