Would this be adequate enough for a paddle clutch? Wont bend or anything unlike the MA fork levers.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLUTCH-FOR...item4cf7061188

I know its the same one listed as in the first post of the thread but wasnt sure if would need something stronger.

Also has anyone got any measurements of BE mounts for saxo/106 as wanting to make my own but cant until i have these as i would like to have everything ready before i start the conversion.

Thats the cable one so its slighty longer. If you are worried about strength reinforce it. Im gonna weld some bits to mine to strengthen it up

a genuine one isnt much more than that, ive got the genuine version of that and run a twin plate AP lug drive and its fine

[QUOTE=Ax_beefy;5624386]Someone correct me if I'm wrong but they are more suited to higher powered conversions as they are stronger QUOTE]

Can the fabricated driveshafts take the strain for track use???

BR Alex

How much are the genuine ones? Also is any box from a BE3/4 car ok? Just thinking ratio wise for boost.

No, you need a BE box from a Car with a TU engine, normally its a 1.6 8v.

So my xsara VTR 8 valve was a BE box then? I've just replace that with a HDI box.

Also another quick question, the hubs have to be from a 1.8+ BE car, does it matter about the shafts? So for instance can they be from a 1.6 8v off same car as the gearbox?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-30...item3cbfedcb77

Is this the correct one? Same part number just didnt want to order and be wrong.

I know some people say it needs to have a metal end, guess thats because its stronger but im sure the cable how it comes will be just fine.

thats the one ive got, its a touch long so will need spacing but ive not had a problem with it

any gen on about using a be4 conversion on standard ecu?

cause doesn't it affect the placement of the crank sensor?

just wanna get the be4 up and running and tested before i put some power through it (read as massive supply of nitrous)

the BE4 uses the standard TU/MA crank sensor

I know this, but I'd read it's in a different position slightly,
Which in turn when running standalone you need to adjust the ignition angle? Had caused peoples engines to det?

Might be a complete lie lol.
Just wanted to make sure.

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the sensor mounts to the block not the gearbox so changing the gearbox cant alter the position of the sensor

BE4 conversion
 

Ahh this is very true,
Dunno what at speed and other people are spouting on about, cheers tweeqd!

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ive heard before that Atspeed say its different but i ran a standard 16v with standard ecu with my BE4 and now use the same sensor with my DTA and have it running at the standard settings

i also took the sensor off my car and fitted it straight on to a customers 106 quicksilver when his failed

perhaps they like charging for stuff not needed ;)

This is music to my ears lol!

Cheers buddy!

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so what cps bracket are you using here?

compared to this?


this bit is confusing me.

the one i have is the standard late type 2 pin CPS

the lower one is an early sheilded type (with a bit of modifying you can get the early type to fit in the late holder)
not sure why they have cut the box to run that type of bracket as the standard one works spot on

i have run my DTA on standard CPS setings and a standard 16v ecu on the same late type plug


also in that pic it looks like someone has fitted the clutch cable back to front

Hmmm I'm sure it works fine, I'll have too see, just it's in a fairly different place about 5degrees at a guess, moves it from below that mounting bolt to above it.
Assume I need a picasso cps bracket.

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