here is the link if it helps

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...adlovesmen.gif

Don - I think i've come across all wrong when I posted. What I meant by changing just before the limiter is literally before or just as the limiter kicks in. I actually thought you meant I was changing gear to late when you posted, until I re-read your posts lol. Think i've got some vids somewhere when it was on std cams/limit and 708's/7.8k limit. I don't actually know where mine now makes peak power, but I use the same principle as I did when std.

haha no worries mate

if you can time a change with one bang on the limiter in 2nd, thats about right, in third you should really be changing just before as you have more time to watch the needle, as its moving slightly slower

what management you running with the 708's i was looking at getting them too, from qep with a KMS standalone ecu, but don't really have the funds at the mo.

Take it to the limiter every time thats what its there for stop been girls

well its there to stop the engine over revving, but its not there to be a shift point.

I'm running std single plug ecu mapped by chipwizards. I was thinking of going standalone before I had it mapped, but as I have no intention of taking engine mods any further, I thought an ecu remap was the best way to go. 708's + KMS seem to be the mods of choice at the mo.

I've found a couple of speedo vids. First one is with just breathing mods, but is a bit pointless as you can't see the rev counter lol, although you can work out that i'm shifting near enough on the limiter. second vid is with cams + 7.8k limit.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPZGEIyUMIY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1aYtVkwQQuE

My 106 GTi (same engine as VTS) starts really going from 4500 all the way to the limiter (7250 rpm i think) no need to hit the limiter tho, just change at 7000

Safest bet for an everyday driver.
Works in the real world but I imagine this wouldnt be sufficient on a track.

Good vids, Neil-H! Nice one...

very good neil, swear that first one looks faster than my vts, but ive never recorded it.

shouldn't ever hit the limiter..

There is no point in revving past peak power as it gets you nowhere fast. If the resultant drop in rev drops you out the power band then need to look at changing to a shorter gearbox

Yep, Thanks Rushy - Id just like to remind people I asked for sportingly driving not out and out track driving as on the road its dangerous and you look like a total twit driving like your on a race track when your on the road :shock:

Thanks guys for all the info, basically 3.5k to 5k for the road - Advice taken :clapping:

i drive like e total cunt on the raod, when its the right time and the right place, but i know my car and know how to drive it hard, safely

It won't be a very sportingly drive between 3.5-5k:P You'll be changing gear just as the funs about to begin:evil: :D:

:P

Lol agree Neil!

A sporty drive and driving on track are sort of hard to distinguish I say personally.
You want to play with the best rev range in both cases but on track there
would be no time for mistakes.

I think there are more issues then just the rev range to be taken into account. (the way the conversation has progressed)


When you say sporty drive do you just mean a bit quicker pace?

:oops: Yer I mean a bit quicker pace, within the limits of 1) the road (with other users, as its not a track) 2) the car (mild tuning and standard suspension) and finially 3) me (Im no Calos Siants)

I think there has to be a clean difference between animated drivin down a country B-Road and a Closed Track where you know nothing is going to pull out or jump out and if say you push it a bit past your limit and gravel trap is abit different to the car on its side in a ditch :P

probably very high up in the rev range this is when you will feel it the most, but your petrol consumption will be completely rubbish :)