yeah i would also like to know more about this lol

the turbo cams are designed for turbo applications, they tend to have a less aggressive exhaust cam to reduce any over lapping issues that can occure when running say, 708s,ph3s, 285s, with boost as these tend to be to aggressive and overlapping issues can happen.

Just found this:

A direct to head inline turbo oil filter/adapter - as advertised elsewhere for £25

Available in -3 (suits dp oil feeds) or -4 pipe sizes. Anodised aluminum, available in black, blue or red.

£14

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/4-4AN-Blue-Ano...#ht_1559wt_689

wow thats a good find ross,

but on closer inspection thats -4 or -3 both ends so would require additional piping and fittings to fit it.. which would add to cost.. so it isnt the specially made item for direct fitment to the 106 heads advertised for £25 elsewhere that you mentioned.. as these are not an- 3 or -4 on the heads.. so wouldnt fit unfortunately :( not without using various adapters (again adding to cost) but making the fitting far too long and possible prone to snap... so a custom fitting was required and designed.. i waited 6 months for them to arrive! :)

elsewhere: http://atspeedracing.co.uk/products/...roducts_id=299

- colin.

Thanks for your input Colin. As you know, torques will do either fitting size, on either end. For no additional charge. Gotta love torques eh?

well was discussing cost for the fittings the other day before listing them online, and me and alex (torques) decided on the price so not to undercut each other.

weve used torques for a long time. quality is on par with goodridge etc and cheaper too.

:)

- colin

Yep love torques myself :)

Correct item for the direct to head figment (obviously only useful on a j4 engine as a jp4 you'll be getting oil from elsewhere or retapping the ball bearing to whatever size you want):
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/170658129608?r...#ht_1760wt_424

If you guys have got an agreement on price, looks like their not sticking to it :(

yes already sorting that :y:

What oil filter can you run using the dp manifold and downpipe? Would a standard one fit?

i would say you can run standard oil filter. but its close and will probably melt. also running a turbo set up its wise to invest in an oilcooler+ oil filter relocation kit, even on my low blow saxo, temps are nice and low with an oil cooler.

No you cannot run a standard filter. You should use a filter relocation and oil cooler. If you don't, you need a Renault 5 filter - I can't remember the part number but it's on my blog I think.

bosch P3336 is the slim filter we use.

you can use the P3336 with the stock "water cooled" cooler.. just! but can only be removed if downpipe is removed lol.

an oil cooler is highly recommended, so an air/oil cooler is recommended, with remote filter housing.. which can go anywhere and allows a larger filter to be used.

- colin

I have got a oil cooler already. Where am i able to get filter relocation from? Where would it best to mount?

ebay, speedflow, places like that.

some people mount them in the bay, personally i mount it on the lower cross member, high enough so it doesnt get smashed off over bumps obviously. and keeps oil hoses neat and tucked out the way of things.

- colin.

mines mounted the back of my intercooler. you can mount above the intercooler.

ive always seen them somewhere in the front bumper as theirs a bit of space.

Yes i had seen a someone on 106oc with that but had the oil cooler in front pas side behind bumper and filter sat behind radiator but the hoses were coming from where the standard filter goes to filter relocation then to the oil cooler and looked a neat and tidy setup.

Why does oil filter need moving? I just put a smaller Subaru Impreza WRX filter on mine and it works a treat

Well if im able to just a smaller filter on then that would be fine and save me some cash to spend elsewhere on the build.

I dont know if theres a reason everyone else has moved theres but I havent. Just used the smaller blue filters fro scoobs, there tiny

the renault 5 ones are also used alot, thats what im running

the only main advantages of moving the filter is getting it further away from the really hot mani/downpipe/turbo, and running a bigger filter...which lets face it is never a bad thing

Something like this-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-5-...item4152e9d57d

thats the one mate, straight on no mods, lots of other cars run them also

What clutches are people running?

well im running standard clutch and gearbox. and 8psi has ripped it to fuck. squeals badly off power now :panic:

so dont use standard if i were you.

Depends on how much torque you're running. Most setups are fine with a single 6 paddle (no point running a 4 paddle as 6 paddle is about £30 more and gives 1/3 more life). Others for higher power choose a twin plate setup but these are quite noisy in neutral.

Last year at 300bhp/250ft/lb I ran this:
http://www.gmcmotorsport.co.uk/clutc.../prod_448.html

Now I'm running this (and to my knowledge am the only person to do so) - it requires a hydraulic conversion and a BE gearbox:
http://www.gmcmotorsport.co.uk/clutc.../prod_619.html

Shaun has offered me a brand new 4 paddle helix for a good price, think this will probably do me for the power and torque im planning on making.

Dont buy it if its a good price mate, clutch is something you do not want going or slipping! Just like brakes, get a little more than you need! :y:

Tbh it'll be fine for what i need, was just wondering what people with similar spec to what i plan to run are using. People like Blackie... thats the sort of power im after so needs to be able to deal with about 170bhp.

Looking at getting my remote oil filter setup rather than going for the smaller filter. I have already got the oil cooler and thermo sandwich plate but im unsure about using the thermo plate fitted to engine then braided lines upto remote filter then to the oil cooler. Would oil still get through to the filter and oil cooler at anytime or does the thermo sandwich plate stop oil from going through it when gets to a certain temperature??

I just didnt want to set it up that way when i come to setting it up and oil not getting to the filter. Could i use the thermo plate as the remote filter?

Also wheres the best place to get the return welded into the sump- Top,Bottom?

No you can't use a thermo plate with a remote filter as it will only go through when warm enough not all the time,

And sump return must be above the oil level to maintain flow

you want the oil return as high as poss really.

Well how do i go about having the oil at the correct temp? Could i use the hermo sandwich plate with the filter?

Anyone know what size vaccum hose is needed and if anyone tell me the layout of them when running a external wastegate?

Need some t28 turbo studs?

a thermostatic take off plate with a filter over the top will work but is unlikely to fit behind a turbo

You can alter the cooling properties of the cooler by adjusting the angle of the cooler, thus allowing more or less air through the fins.

i use 4mm silicone vac tube, fits pretty much everything, with just a little cable tie on the boost gauge and FPR as those are a little smaller. Silicone grips really well anyway

I have a turbo with a barbed fitting on the compressor housing, so theres a vac tube going from that to the wastegate actuator, with a T piece in it going to the boost controller

Then theres 2 lines coming from the inlet - one has a T in it with one part going to the boost gauge and the other going to the dump valve. The other has a T in it with one going to the FPR and the other going to the MAP sensor

that should be all you need

Ive got a small filter which i will be running.

Ok i'll get a 4mm vaccum hose ordered then if thats the size i'll be needing.

Thanks for those instructions of how its set out :y:

See how it fits then - I know I had to remove the turbo and mani to fit my take off plate with no filter on lol very tight! See how you get on though every setup is different

Well i'll be using a dp manifold and downpipe and i got the small filter as colin (atspeed) said thats what they use so all being well should be ok.

What lenght of vaccum pipe would be enough too?

best thing you can do not spend alot is

make your own manifold using a standard one and a flange
a good 2nd hand turbo
universal boost pipes
look at megane intercoolers i got mine for £15!
dump valves on ebay are good

i did mine. so far my build has onlycost £450 and will be running about 130hp from a 1.45 engine

dump valve is also not required... ;)
But I'd put money on most people wanting on it for the noise.

The less power you run the more you can save (as above) - standard vts clutch can cope with a boosted 130hp engine (as you'll see around 130ft/lb also). Same with injectors - just use vts injectors, £20, sorted.

Go from 130hp to 200hp though and you'll start to see significant cost increases as other bits cant cope (clutch, exhaust, injectors, rad, ecu etc etc). Then to 300hp (a real 300...) and it's a much larger jump. Then 400 is a monumental jump, and above that is well, you get the jist...

:)