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I'm not into imaging or SQL and desperately don't want max power fame.
I got all my ICE nicked!!! and then fitted some Kenwood 7x10's as I read in a max power review that they gave the impression subs were installed, I backed it up with a V12 500 watt alpine amp and they sounded trully amazing, the audio shop who installed it all were gobsmacked!!! they initially tried to talk me out of wiring the amp up to them saying they wouldn't take it. I backed it up with some kenwood door speakers but they sounded god awful off the headunit amp at higher volumes, so I unplugged them. The Hq's are rated 320 watt each and I belive would sound great with amped components up front and would also save money on boot space and not having to buy a sub n amp. |
im installing a sub, i have front speakers and components, i have mounted 2 13cm speakers on the shelf for vocal and a boot sub going in tommorrow....
will i still get this prob of crap sound if i just use the speakers for mid-high and the sub for low frequency??? thanks sam |
yes its the moving air thats the issue
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hmmmm..... its fitted in....sat in the back....vocals are still accurate so it all good... i have a ported box.....might change it for a sealed enclosure now
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still going to have the same issues sealed or ported
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Sooo... are 6x9s a good thing to have if there is NO sub and the rear speakers are disconnected?
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good quality 6x9's on a mdf shelf will sound fine, my 7x10's sound like there is a sub in there somewhere - off a 500 watt alpine v12 amp!
I asked everyone what sized sub/s they thought I had in the boot!! Not one person said it sounded like just 6x9's! I've added a small JL sub now on a small amp and the air pressure isn't a factor. I could blow on the cones harder. |
Of course you have air movment issues. Once that bootlid is closed then you effectively have a sealed area beneath the parcel shelf, which you sub is moving air in. Air will find the weakest parts and move them or blow through them, your 7x10s will be getting moved with this air which is plain fact. Thsi is where the issues come in, this air movement will be affecting the performance of the speaker.
How much or how little depends on other things but it is happening. Not sure what your quote in your sig is all about either |
Never said it wasn't being moved, but the fractions involved won't make an audible difference in this case.
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This debate is going to go on forever. 6x9s are not good simple as that the optimum speaker shape if round not oval for a start!
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..all car speakers and locations have pros and cons - there is no set sound system. good 6x9's can be useful if you're not bothered about a high SQL score.
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i recon to save argument.....6x9's and 7x10s rule! and sound even better with 2 12" subs right under them :d end of discussion :p
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We cant force anyone to like or change anything, i give my advice based on my own experiences as well as the physical facts behind it.
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its getting boring now.
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god all these clueless people. fair enough if you go out and buy them and then hear the facts, then scrap them. but to know all this and to stick with them, is just plain WRONG
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I have alpine type r comps upfront, alpine type s coaxials in the rear, 2 pairs of alpine type r 6x9s on a custom shelf and 2 alpine type r subs in a sealed enclosure in the boot all running of alpine v12 amps, hu is an alpine iva-d100. This install sounds 10x better, clearer, louder (except lowerer freqs), more defined than my old install which consisted of rainbow power comps running off a genesis ultra 4 and 2 re xxx's ported 35hz running off 2 spl dynamics 2000d's.
Even everyone I know who has heard both my systems agrees my current one is better in everyway. Surely i'm going to blow my 6x9's tho? Well 1 piece of black carpet attached to the underside of the parcel shelf stops any unwanted pressure hitting the 6x9's and it also tidys up the install by covering all those hanging wires and magnets. Not exactly rocket science? Pro's and con's of my old system: Pro's - V loud bass = fun - bragging rights Con's - My systems weights meant I could count my mpg on my left hand - No rear seats - Ported sounds awful compared to sealed imo - As soon as someone sat in the passenger seat my treble was reduced to half the volume originally and there's no other speakers producing sound - 1 part of the system gets blown and you have to save 3 months wages to replace it - all you can hear is bass, even in my current system if all I had was components I would hear naff all - you can't listen to music outside the car, nothing better than playin fball etc on a hot day and having your boot open with some music playing - rear passengers can't hear the components muffled by your legs - 1 set of components will never be loud enough unless you're a fairy the list could go on but i'm bored of writing now, btw my old system was all recommended by talk audio. |
I love my 6x9s lol
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Yeah door installs and boot intsalls both see problems for full range speakers, there's a way around sub air pressures as Quez states! My cousin has a second shelf level under his 6x9's that protect the cones and act as a seperate bass box.
I run a 260 watt amp to a JL audio sub that sounds great, the pressure isn't a factor and the 320 watt rated 7x10's are especially built to accompany big hitting subs. The amount of volume I have to give the 7x10's to balance out the mid bass so I'm not bottom heavy on hz is unbelievable, 500 watts running into metal and plastic in the door wouldn't be ideal in my opinion, if there are front speakers that can fire that loud. All I need now is a HQ small 3rd amp to run some tidy crisp fronts. |
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my 2 pence worth on your 'cons' Matt - why you need some 'tidy crisp fronts' if your 7x10s are so good? |
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