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Just getting this thread back to life instead of making a new one.
Right, this is the list i've made of parts i'm going to be using for my budget 16v boost build. If anyone could answer some of the stuff in brackets, or guide me some more on prices (2nd hand) that would be great. Feel free to give any suggestions for other parts etc as well :Y: • modded sump with oil feed and return lines (bought - £40) • cituning mani + downpipe (£450) • gt17 turbo (£100) • clio 182 injectors (Best injectors to use? £50??) • 4bar fpr (where from?) (£30) • Decomp plate (£100) • Intercooler (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-...d#ht_772wt_905) (£70) • Uprated fuel pump (really needed?) • mocal oil cooler (£100) • 106 diesel rad (£30) • Silicone hoses (what is exactly needed?) • Boost pipes (ally??) • Air filter (£50) • Dump valve (£100) Edit: hoping to get a 3-plug pred for management |
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From reading around on budget low boost setups, anywhere between 180 - 200bhp i would be happy with... |
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in regards to boost hoses and some of the smaller nitty gritty stuff won't know until you do mock up if you get me? with the cituning kit I've always had something in mind how to do all the pipes dead easy infact chris look at how rory is doing his on the vtr won't be to dissimilar |
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ditch the £100 dump valve for one! £30 MAX will get you a nice vag recirc. Put the £70 saving into your boost pipes. :)
Rest seems about right price wise. Gav's given you some pointers :) Factor in:
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if anyone is interested i have a moded 16v mani with t2 flange was on simo's pre rebuild got it as part of a kit and i have on use for it as i !!!AM!!! sticking 8v lol
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no - every turbo is at least oil cooled. some are water cooled as well. can you imagine a turbocharger spinning at 100,000 rpm with no lubrication!
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Thanks for clearing that up, and yeh that does make sense! That stuff i got off you isn't wasted then lol
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Right just a quick question, would it be ok to use the cituning mani in conjunction with a dp engineering downpipe? There just seems to more options for turbos with the flange on the dp downpipe
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almost certainly not - it wont line up under the sump.
Why dont you just make up your own downpipe? The DP one is not especially good, and making your own is not complex. Just buy the flanges you want, along with the bore downpipe you want. :) |
Hi guys, could anyone offer a bit of advise?
I'm currently part way through turbo'ing my VTS and itll be my first turbo petrol. Unfortunately it's going to be a daily driver, as I can't afford to run 2 cars. it's got a t25, omex ecu, de-comp plate. Running around 10-14psi, with ability to switch between them. Standard MA box. I've not been able to fund forged internals - is this a ticking time bomb on std ones? Would I be able to drive it on the motorway, with it boosting for long periods of time? What gauges would you suggest I run? Boost and oil temp? A mate runs boost and voltage, but seems rather pointless to me? |
Welcome to the forum :)
You can run standard internals just fine on low boost. 10-14psi isn't low boost though. What you're describing (long periods of on boost - motorway hard driving - is the worst thing you can do for any boosted car, let alone one with standard pistons. So no is really my answer, don't do it. You can drive on the motorway off boost of course - just don't keep it nailed ;) You'll be much better off getting some forged pistons (don't worry about rods) and then you'll be more confident too. Regarding gauges - boost is good to have but most importantly is a way to monitor water and oil temps. You haven't said if you have an oil cooler or not? I monitor a lot of things on my car but I'm a geek - really oil pressure, oil and water temp, and boost are the most important. :) Anything else just ask - we're a nice bunch here. Mostly - if you avoid moke ;) |
Cheers Ross!
Yes I run a mocal oil cooler :) Unfortunately, the t25 starts to spoil up at around 1.5-2k revs... Which normally is a good thing, with no lag, but maybe not for any kind of motorway run? I was thinking 10psi was "low boost" haha - is this not the case? With a switch on the dash to go up to 14psi when it's needed |
Oh and I'm running a VTS bottom end (from a 2003) and a jp4 head. What forged pistons would you recommend?
Wossner? Or something else? Can you provide a link by chance - rather new to the whole forged game! :D |
I would suggest woosner yep. Try: http://www.gmcmotorsport.co.uk/engin.../prod_279.html
If you think 10psi is more than a lot of standard cars run as max boost (11psi on a Seat Cupra R, 8psi on a Volvo T5R etc). Half a bar would be generally considered low boost - 6-8psi. On the motorway you're fine if it's a few psi all the time, thats unavoidable - what I interpreted from your post was that you were sitting at 120mph the whole time running 10psi. You'll chow down turbos like that quicksmart ;) |
Haha no chance - ill be granny driving on motorways, sitting at 50-60 (which will still probably be boosting around 6ish psi :()
Looks like I'll need to sell a kidney for some forged pistons then! Looking over your website, you don't run wossner? Are there other (ie cheaper!) brands out there that will give me the reliability Im after? Thanks for the help so far Ross! This forum is far better than others I'm on! |
And can you suggest some rod bolts, something I've been considering! And after a mate in a 106 broke a rod after the bolt gave it sounds like a good idea. Learn from others mistakes is cheaper! ;)
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