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-   -   Basic sound system components...HELP (http://www.saxperience.com/forum/showthread.php?t=350525)

Morris008 5th December 2010 20:51

Basic sound system components...HELP
 
Hi i'm new to this and don't know much when it comes to ICE.
I was hoping some of you would be able to help me out.

I want to fit a nice sound system to my saxo but im not sure where to start, would somebody be able to tell me what i'd need and why etc.
I know id need a new head unit and speakers but where i get confused is with amps and subs etc.

Any help would be very grateful and i apologise for sounding like such a newb :P

Coonper 5th December 2010 21:26

You wanna get a head unit with a couple of outputs. One for a sub and one for front.

Then some components for the front (5.25"). JBL make some good stuff for little money.

Then you need a 2 channel amp to power the components (again, stick to JBL), or you could use a 4 channel amp. This involves using 2 channels for the front speakers and bridging the 2 rear channels to power a sub. :y:

Morris008 5th December 2010 22:08

Ok starting to make a bit more sense.

So if i wanted speakers in the back, i would need an amplifier?
And if i wanted a sub aswell i would need a 4 channel amp instead of a 2 channel amp?

Morris008 5th December 2010 22:12

Also could anyone recommend a good system which isn't too expensive for me first saxo? :)

Mezza 7th December 2010 00:40

Halfrauds have Vibe slick Sub and amps for 150quid

I would personally say get 6x9's but most would argue that 6x9's and subs don't work well together.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_50 4839_langId_-1_categoryId_165702




But It does depend on how much "expensive" is. :y:

_EssVtr 7th December 2010 04:51

car and audio center, iv got two audiobahn 1400 watt subs brand new. 100 for both.

Coonper 7th December 2010 08:18

6x9's are wank, unless you just want to make some noise.

The sound should come from the front of the car, rather like when you're at a concert. How often do you put your back to the music when listening to a band? Granted 6x9's are loud, but they dont sound good and subs can interfere with the suspension.

Morris008 7th December 2010 20:08

Fair point, well put. If thats the case, some nice speakers for the front and a sub in the back the best combination?

Coonper 7th December 2010 20:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by Morris008 (Post 4929197)
Fair point, well put. If thats the case, some nice speakers for the front and a sub in the back the best combination?

Exactly! :y:

What sort of budget are you on?

Morris008 8th December 2010 19:25

ooh not sure, couple of hundred maybe tops. You think that would be enough?

Coonper 8th December 2010 22:51

So for £200 you need:

Head unit
Components
Amp
Sub
Box
Cabling

I think you may be pushing it, but let me give you a few recommendations and you can have a search and see how cheap you can find them.

Head unit Clarion
Components JBL Components
Amp JBL Amp
Sub JL 12" and box
Cabling 8 gauge kit

Morris008 9th December 2010 19:59

Thanks alot man appreciate that, i'll have a look.
Dont mind if i spend a bit more i suppose :)

samoVTR 12th December 2010 22:23

you want new head unit thats gunna be most expensive really

then components up front and a sub in the boot and on a cheap budget get a 4 channel amp 1 channel for each set of components and then bridge two channels together for the sub

key thing to think about isnt max watt or power as people seem to think but you wanna look at the rms watt and try to have all of them the same or close to it as you can

as i think if you over power speakers then you damage them so if you try to run some 100watt rms components off a 200rms amp i think it damages them

o and dont use the gain on an amp as a volume control cuz that will damage the speakers this should be matched to your head unit (again if i remember correctly) so if your head unit is 5 volt then you set the gain to 5 or i think you can find the best gain by turnin you music up to about 70% volume then increase the gain until you lose abit of clarity (get the shhhh noise and doesnt sound nice) then simply turn the gain back down a tab
and guys correct me if im wrong was a while ago i look into it

Coonper 12th December 2010 22:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by samoVTR (Post 4942080)
you want new head unit thats gunna be most expensive really

then components up front and a sub in the boot and on a cheap budget get a 4 channel amp 1 channel for each set of components and then bridge two channels together for the sub

key thing to think about isnt max watt or power as people seem to think but you wanna look at the rms watt and try to have all of them the same or close to it as you can

as i think if you over power speakers then you damage them so if you try to run some 100watt rms components off a 200rms amp i think it damages them

o and dont use the gain on an amp as a volume control cuz that will damage the speakers this should be matched to your head unit (again if i remember correctly) so if your head unit is 5 volt then you set the gain to 5 or i think you can find the best gain by turnin you music up to about 70% volume then increase the gain until you lose abit of clarity (get the shhhh noise and doesnt sound nice) then simply turn the gain back down a tab
and guys correct me if im wrong was a while ago i look into it

Some good advice there regarding setting up amps. :y:

However, i believe it can be a good thing to overpower speakers (to a certain extent).

This ensures you are always feeding them a clean, unclipped signal, rather than maxing out your amp and feeding the speaker square waves, which leads to distortion.

I.e. A 60w rms speaker would run happily off a 100w rms amp. :)

samoVTR 12th December 2010 23:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coonper (Post 4942146)
Some good advice there regarding setting up amps. :y:

However, i believe it can be a good thing to overpower speakers (to a certain extent).

This ensures you are always feeding them a clean, unclipped signal, rather than maxing out your amp and feeding the speaker square waves, which leads to distortion.

I.e. A 60w rms speaker would run happily off a 100w rms amp. :)

fair enough always good to know i did know about the clipped signal thing i found a dispute on here a while back about what damages them and what doesnt lol but couldnt really remember as much as i would have liked to lol

Morris008 13th December 2010 19:16

Thanks guys some really useful information here, didn't realise there was so much to it :/

Coonper 14th December 2010 08:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Morris008 (Post 4944033)
Thanks guys some really useful information here, didn't realise there was so much to it :/

The surface has barely been scratched ;)

Morris008 14th December 2010 20:29

Haha oh great, i don't stand a chance in understandin it then :mental:

PeteSaxo 14th December 2010 21:15

Well I brought an active sub off ebay for £45 (a sub with a built in amp) vibe cbr 10" 1300 watts. It sounds great with just the standard speakers and you can buy decent brand new head units for £50. Then youll need wiring and front speakers if you wish.

rorz_vts 15th December 2010 14:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeteSaxo (Post 4946783)
Well I brought an active sub off ebay for £45 (a sub with a built in amp) vibe cbr 10" 1300 watts. It sounds great with just the standard speakers and you can buy decent brand new head units for £50. Then youll need wiring and front speakers if you wish.

i'd beg to differ

as Coonper said a few post back i think your going to be hard pushed to do this for £200, dont bother with 6x9s in the rear shelf as its a waste if you've got to have them use them where the rear 1s are and about overpowering the amps/speakers i would always do this if possible by a few hundered watts on the sub and by 50-100 on components, it just means that you always have a clear signal and tend to be able to get the most out of the rms when it comes to clarity. not tho you will be able to blow them up if you dont pay attention to the clairty of the music.

As its already been stated i think the best sort of setup for you to go for is

headunit, components, wiring, amp, sub,

1. a head unit - look for 1 that has multiple out puts on the back and try and go for 1 thats 50x4 if your not going to run your conponents off the amp

2. wiring kit - i'd personally go for a 4g kit as they hold power better than the simple motor world kits, you can normally get them for £30-40 with your sax-p discount from car audio direct (discount code 7e6e57) or £20 if you go for the cheast 1

3. amp - it all depends now on if your going to run components off the amp here if you not then i'd go for a 2 channel amp and bridge the channels to get full power out of it this should cost you around £100 and if you are putting in components then go for a decent 4 channel amp you should be looking at around £140, these prices should get you 600w but cost will go up depending on power/make

4. sub - theres 2 options here you can either go for 1 that doesnt have an internal amp or 1 that has. for a simple setup and 1 thats not running comps of an amp pick the 1 that has the amp built in as its basically plug and play. the other option is the 1 with out an amp, these tend to be more popular and are my personal choice, when picking have a look at some reviews at amps in your price range that are highly rated, theres loads out here but i always tend to go back to the jbl 1s as they give me everything i need and are always at good value

5. components - these i would always upgrade as the difference straight away is highly noticeable, there is a few options that you can pick here the 1 i would go for if funds allow is up grade to the 13cm speakers, these give better mid bass and tend to have a higher rms, also most tend to have an optional tweeter setup which i personally would always choose. to fit these will require you to make a new housing to fit them as they simply wont fit into the original holes, abit of mdf is your friend here. The other option is to go for standard uprated 1s jbl and vibe i have found to both be good here and some do come with tweeters to seperate the mid/high

hope that helps


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