Simo's Turbo re-build Progress (GMC pics & video - page 18...)
 

This thread started off as a discussion about changing the orientation of a turbo, then evolved into a progress thread. Apologies for the techy ramblings on the first page or so ;)


Peeps,

I started the preliminary re-build of my VTS yesterday. A few years ago I bought a new turbo and am currently thinking this may be best to use, rather than throw it on the scrap heap and buy another new blower!

The orientation of the compressor is not how I want it. Ideally, I'd like the config to be the same as my old turbo, to reduce the hassle of re-routing some of the pipework.

Looking at rotating the housing doesn't look too tricky? I need to swing the compressor housing by approx 90degrees. Once Ive dont this though, the new turbo actuator bracket won't pick up with any mounting holes.

So... looks like Im gonna have to drop it off at a turbo outfit and get them to swing things about. To do it properly, I think Im going to have to do the 90degree rotate, then get a shorter actuator arm and get a mounting bracket that mounts on the inner compressor housing, rather than the outer.

Im guessing there are gazillions of off the shelf parts to allow this to be done. Anyone give me a yay or a nay!?

Cheers.

Simo

That Turbo is huuuuugge :y:

i've turned comprssor housings on garrett off land rover tdi's just by unbolting the wastegate actuator bracket and compressing the circlip slightly, twisted the body to the desired position then re-drilling and tapping the bracket mounting holes.

Thanks - expected the rotation to be as simple as that. Problem being on this turbo, the actuator bracket holes are on the outside of the compressor housing, so cant re-drill.

Think I will have to move the bracket to the inner edge of the compressor housing and re-drill/tap... but then I will need a shorter actuator rod. (See picture 2 and 3)

Can the rod simply be chopped down? I've not looked at how the rod is attached. :err:

They just spin round you can do it your self. The only issue is the actuator. You may have to just make up a bracket if the original no longer fits. There relatively easy to make your self.

rather then shorten the rod, how about making a bent bracket up that mounts on the inner face of the housing but sets the actuator the same distance away as origanally? that way all parts are OE apart from the bracket

Thanks for your ideas peeps - will have a look at this on Tuesday. Gotta dash to catch a plane. Will check back later for more input :A:

Back from Holland - Had a bit of a nightmare trying to find a set of cir-clip pliers big enough to remove the compressor housing. Had to improvise in the end. Man, that cir-clip is TIGHT!

Managed to swing the orientation, tapped a new M6 hole, then pinched a few parts off the old turbo, to get the actuator in the correct place on the new turbo.

Need to grab an oil outlet block from somewhere now, then get it back on the car so the new pipes can be fab'd. :A:

Simo,

what Turbo is that? Have you a compressor map for it and checked it's ok?

A

Hi Andy,

I bought this unit a few years ago and have had it lying around - literally. :oops: Its a Turbo Technics Hybrid, based on T25.

I dont have a map for it, but based on my thinking at the time I bought it, it should be fine for my VTS. All comments welcome ;)

Pop up its serial number so we can have a look at what you have there. Look good though. Turbo Technics did some nice Hybrid back in the day.

Serial is S145 - http://www.turbotechnics.com/turbo/s145.htm

If you guys have access to a range of maps, please let me see ;)

I've been struggling to find a place to sell the oil outlet flange - seems almost everywhere in the UK is trade only for turbo components. Ebay is all direct sales from US or Japan.

Eventually stumbled across http://www.gb-ent.com/ - not ideal, but aslong as the parts arrive quickly!!!

Need to get this bolted back in place and get the fabrication done.

Try calling Turbo Dynamics in Christchurch for the outley flange. You may need to weld in a metal tube so you can jubilee on your oil drain pipe

Andy

I've now ordered the required parts - just need them to arrive!

I've used a oil outlet from gb-ent, seemed good quality, delivery was on-time, recommend it & them :y: make sure the spacing/sizing is correct as per your turbo...

Thanks - I'd not heard of them before!

The parts are listed to fit my turbo, so should be fine.

Parts have arrived - can get the blower mounted properly at last! :A:

so is the only difference in that unit being the 360 degree thrust bearing? that unit looks exactly like the t25 i have for the vtr, although mine is from an s13, was thinking abou upgrading to a 360 if i stick with this turbo and after looking at it im very tempted as its in quite good nick.

Pretty sure mine is a hybrid for the S13. 360 degree bearing and some impellor work is usually the differences.

Just need an ECU now Simo :y:

Kind regards

Andy

Another SLOW day - its freezing cold outside and I'm buying a seemingly endless list of tools (mainly as my tool boxes are so dis-organised I cant find any of the tools I need!!)

Got the oil drain pipe bolted on and fixed the turbo and downpipe to the car. After doing this I needed to adjust the orientation of the turbo again, to clear exhaust path with the drain and a few mm adjustments to the water cooling pipes. Adjusting the orientation ON the car was a complete ball ache! :rage:

The turbo is all mounted now though - except the oil feed banjo - I think I need a slightly longer bolt. Gonna be another fun time trying to source a banjo bolt tomorrow!

Just checked the actuator code on TurboTechnics site and its a 1bar unit - which is what I hoped it was. Another £50 I dont need to spend! :A:
Few pics...

The predator is currently winning in my Ecu-wish list. Just need to check a few details/spec and then wait for you to reduce the price ;)

Sorted the oil feed today. FOund a nice supplier of CHEAP banjo bolts too - a local diesel tuning place called Nationwide diesel. PIcked up a banjo bolt for £1.50 - better than the £12.50 GB-Ent were asking!!

Need to go back tomorrow for a 14mm banjo for the water feed now :P

Slowly getting there...

Also, after searching dozens and dozens of web pages for turbo components, eventually http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk turned up. Forgot about those :oops: Ordered a 2" stainless outlet and 3-stud mounting flange for the compressor outlet. So, once the rad, fans and intercooler are surface mounted, the pipe build can begin!

Been away for a few days, but found a couple of hours to carry on with the build today. I'm still re-jigging the position of the rad/fans, etc to allow me to run twin fans. Looks like Im oging to have to mount the intercooler off-centre. Not the best, but Im planining to try and hide it all behind a standard bumper anyway, so should be ok.

I seem to be spending a fair amount of time improving things that weren't all that great before. :oops: Been clearing a bit of surface rust too, so hopefully things will last a few extra years :A:

Hoping to fabricate all of the boost pipes later this week, or at the weekend.

A before shot and a few mid-build shots...

Its great to see you getting back into the swing of things again SI :) Its been absent from show appearance for too long

Jeez, just noticed 3 weeks have passed since I started ripping the car apart. I really need to find some more spare time to get things moving along, as my work here is only the start of the rebuild. Once the car's mobile again, its off to GMC for a major overhaul.

I've prep'd most of the bits for the rad and dual fan combo, but have been messed around trying to find the correct banjo bolts for the turbo water connections. After two places insisting that the threads were not M14 or 1/4, I decided to buy both from another hose outlet... and they both fit. Well done turbo experts, you were wrong!

I've had the compressor outlet pipe and flange welded up, so once bolted on, I can surface mount the intercooler and start to make the new boost pipes (at last).

Whilst I've been waiting for some bits/bobs, I've been cleaning the engine bay up. I saw a VTR at the scrapyard a week or two ago, which had been scrapped due to excessive rust on the subframe in the drivers arch. I decided to get rid of the sruface rust on mine and spruce it up, before things got out of hand! ;)

Can anyone tell me of the top of their heads, the OD of the VTS throttle body? Saves me heading outside with a tape measure :P I'm planning to use 2.5" boost pipe (again) and need to know how much to reduce by at the inlet.

Couple of pics as usual :P

62mm od iirc thats what size reducer i'm using.

Excellent - no reducer needed then :A:

Eagerly watching progress on this Si :) Sprucing up the engine bay has made a world of difference, still loving the colour too.

Had a few set backs this week (travel abroad, hospital visits and ordered parts not arriving). :( Been waiting over a week for some Samco bends - I ordered from a different (to normal) supplier, as they said they were mail order experts. Suckered :P

Just had a few hours on the car now. I grabbed an oil drain hose on Saturday morning and have just fitted it. When I bought it I wasn't convinced it was gonna be right, but thought I should start to overcome the next problem :P

The oil drain has always been a concern for me, as with my sump/exhaust setup, its quite close and could potentially get pretty warm. Fortunately Ive never had a problem... on my old turbo, I replaced the rubber drain hose I had with a steel section, to take the return past the exhaust.

The short length of pipe I bought this week it convoluted PTFE lined stainless steel braid, which is good for about 260degC. But, with the 45deg elbow I 'upgraded to', this takes the pipe worryingly close to the exhaust.

Is this too close for comfort?? Should I opt for a compact 90deg union, or should I just fab up a steel pipe, similar to before. As this is the one pipe on the car I've always let play on my mind, I'm swaying to the latter...

Couple of pics to explain...

I had the same problem today with the return being very close to the down pipe, I overcome this by have a steel return most of the way and joining hose at the end.

Will try and get some pics tomorow

Yeah, thats the way I used to have it, in pic#1.

Gonna have a look through my connections/adaptors catalogue to see if there's anything off the shelf, so I dont have to butcher something :P

Pics would be useful.

Thanks
Simo

pretty sure mine ran close aswell Si never had a problem and I had the rubber and none stainless return pipe

good stuff si

will this be ready for fcs ;)

yes that oil return is too close --10mm gap absolute min+ heat shield it as well by choice
remember that braided hose has plastic liner.so if the oute gets hot it will transmit it

Thanks John - Im going to try and sort a different fitting with steel pipe in the next couple of hours.

Simo

you could cut the sump inlet at 45 degrees and re-weld it pointing up towards the turbo outlet, and then the braided piping would be straight between 2 points and give you your 10mm. It's because it comes out the sump horizontally and then the pipe has to make the curve, if the sump welded tube made the curve it would happen closer to the block and come away from the downpipe

Kind regards

Andy

Cheers Andy - addressing the sump tail would make the job a lot better. TBH, I was trying to avoid dropping the sump pan off. Knowing me, I'll end up doing this though - lol.

Cheers,
Simo

Rang up Samco distributor #1 yesterday to see where my hoses are. They are due in stock this Friday - WTF?!? 2 weeks to wait for hose :(

Ordered another Samco from distributor #2 and has been dispatched same day. Progress. LOL.

I knew my conscience would get the better of me and this evening Ive dropped the sump off. I dont think I am going to be able to use the 45deg elbow from the turbo, as its directing the drain far too close to the exhaust.

Instead, I'm considering a 90deg turbo outlet and re-welding the stab on the sump at 35deg... then buying a threaded hose to screw in between the threaded connections I will have at turbo and sump. 90deg is not ideal, but looks like the best plan. Desperate to get these loose ends tied up now!!

I see now the need for a sump :P