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Starts then immediately cuts out.
Hello there,sometime lately,more and more often,when i turn my VTS on it really struggles to keep idle and then dies in a second,if i keep the revs at 1000-1300 rpm it keeps running without any problems,sometime it just turn on with no issues.
I really didn't notice any issues with the idle,other than this,so i don't think it could be the idle valve. The battery is in the boot and the alternator charges fine at 13.5v/13.8v. Could be a dirty air filter? i'm quite sure it needs a good clean. Any other ideas? Many thanks. |
As you say, try giving the air filter a clean and give the throttle body a clean up and idle control valve then see how it goes from there
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I already checked the throttle body and it's very clean,an oil catch tank is fitted so it doesn't get as much dirt so i believe it can be excluded.
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icv, coil pack/spark plugs?
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Icv has been removed and it's being cleaned,the spark plugs have been changed a month ago with NGK BKR6EK,tightened to 25nm as per manual,the coilpack from what i know it's the standard one and never been replaced.
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I had a problem with a breather pipe from the carbon canister. Ran fine disconnected, connected it would cut out. Worth a shout.
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Might be worth you borrowing a mates coil pack and trying it mate.
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Update: It's not doing this anymore after cleaning the Icv,so reassured if it was just that,i'll keep this updated in case the problem comes back,thanks for the help everyone.
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It was fine for a week but it's doing it again,should i try with a brand new Icv? For its cost i could try.
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I had a similar stalling issue, cleaned the icv and worked for a bit but then the problem can back.
Only a new icv cured it. |
Thanks Alex for your feedback.
I was thinking,could this be the battery that does not have enough CCA? (it has 360 but it's in the boot) |
Try to test coolant temp sensor ;) Or try to use french shit method. Disconnect battery for an half hour, it helps in my case, when my sax was running on 2 cylinders...
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People i need help.
It won't turn on at all now,well it did once but it's just because i've tried to wait then try to start it again the last 20 minutes. I ruled out the possible "too dirty air filter" as it won't start even without it on,the alt charges fine at 13.8,when off the battery is at 12.2,as said above if keept at above 1k rpm runs fine but immediately cuts off as you depress the accelerator. Is there anything i can do to rule out some other components without having to buy a new one,or even any check at all i can do? Thanks. |
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Is it cranking or just doing nothing?
Did you try a different icv? |
It cranks,starts but then immediately cuts off.
I'm still looking for a new Icv,i should have one in a few days. |
This will be the ICV dude, it's the exact symptoms I had last week, cleaning the ICV with carb cleaner helped for a day with mine, but went straight back to how it was.
New ICV, job jobbed. You'll be able to keep it running with throttle, but as soon as you come off the throttle pedal it will die yeah? |
Yes D4MJT exactly,thanks for the help guys,i appreciate it.
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I never bothered with part numbers, as I'm shit. Await next weeks thread from me "Why has my cheap ebay ICV fucked after 4 days" :y: |
Took apart the Icv and cleaned it again,now it turned on but was idling at 2k rpm,it then dropped to around 1500 but didn't let it run longer to avoid annoying neighborhood,going to let the ECU resets and see what happens.
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Yes i did that,started up twice just fine then started to do it again,will get a new Icv and update later then,thanks for the help.
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Battery at 12.2volts charged is goosed. Change that. Also, have you changed the temp sensor in the head?
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Nope,i never said that,the battery is at 12.2v when the engine is off,no,the temp sensor is the still the original one i believe,are you talking about the green sensor on the thermostat housing?
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So i fitted a brand new icv,started first time idles at 1500 rpm,turned it off,tried to turn it on again and its doing the same thing as the first post again,anything i am missing?
Why if i leave the icv plug disconnected it turn on and idles at 2000 rpm? If i cant really do anyhting i will have to leave it at the garage,even though he needs to put it on diagnostic and charge 40 only for that. Any help is much appreciated,thanks. |
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Doesn't always bring up a fault code mate,i had a stuttering loss of power followed by the eml flash up for a few secs but no fault code.this went on for months until the head gasket failed.
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I cleaned the MAP sensor and now is much better,still does it once every three times though,will see how it goes.
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Back to how it was again,cool.
So,the fuel pump primes,the engine cranks and is getting spark,in the same exact moment that the engine turns on and goes above 1000 rpm instead of sitting there it cuts off and turns over,if i keep down the throttle a bit the idle stabilize at around 750 rpm,if you give it a good rev it turns off. From what i know i ruled out the crank sensor as it should not even getting a spark if that is the problem. I have cleaned where the icv sits and it is shiny now but that seems not to have changed anything. If the MAP sensor would be broken it should still run,would run crap but still turns on. It has in about 6 litres of 98 unleaded fuel at the moment. I got it to run before,done around 30 miles but i did not notice any problem like misfires or anything like that. |
check the throttle position sensor & it's wiring mate.
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Where would this be please?
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It's at the back of your throttle body either next to or under the icv mate.
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Thanks stevo,in the meanwhile i put some injector cleaner in,i doubt it will do anything but i wanted to try.
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