Unscientifically tested some actuators:



Lowered the output from the compressor and could gauge that the two small actuators are 8-9psi (which makes sense as one of them was from the original GT17) and the bigger one is 12psi or so.

Went with the original one, as I knew it worked and the car is already mapped by Wayne to run 8 or 9 psi.

Fitted it, with a bit more clocking of the turbo to make sure the gearbox won't get in the way.



Then moved onto the oil return/drain. Clocked the centre cartridge so the drain has a natural downward slope to it, but using existing/previous pipes was not going to work, as it was too short.
I bought some more, but it isn't flexible enough and when bending it, it wants to fold in on itself.
Not only that, the turbo sits way lower on the manifold, thus making it hard to get a natural downward slope to the sump.
I've ordered a shorter oil drain adapter, so that will help, but will also look at a 90 degree pipe or adapter, to get it to fit.



Minor set back really.

Finally, I decided I should make use of the silicon hoses - they're unlikely to sell anyway, given not many people with 106's or Saxo's either exist or will modify them to incorporate the use of them. So I swapped over the rear water outlet, as described in a post earlier - and put now the entire water system is forge silicon piped.

Although I can't remember if the heater matrix pipes cross over like this... Does anyone?! Seems a tad weird. I can't remember what they looked like when I took it out!

Good update mate progress is progress :y:

Glad to see there is still a boosted progress thread !

Keep up the good work its all worth it in the end

Oil drain for the turbo came, it's shorter and fits great - so oil return is done.

I got my old man round to discuss the downpipe and turbo bracket and he's happy to do this when the engine is in place, so that let me prep everything for the engine to go back in.

I had a paddle clutch from a breaker turbo car in 2015, so dragged that out. I don't totally know what I'm looking at, but from other people's comments, looks like it hasn't been used that much or even fully bedded in... anyway, I hope it works!





Managed to jockey the gearbox on & I've just got the last bit of the loom to do - then the engine can go back in!



Crank/Flywheel sensor plug is knackered though. If anyone has a 2-pin one, going spare, let me know.



More stuff to install when the engine is in:

- New engine mounts
- New lower gearbox mount + bush
- Fit new radiator & wire up the fan (had twin fans before)
- Fit wideband
- Fit oil cooler
- weld downpipe flange + weld turbo bracket
- Put everything else back on & fire it up (circa 2020...)

Slowly plodding on, an hour a night! Keeps the cobwebs away, I guess.

From last time.... I soldered on a new crank sensor - thank you to Meirion for sending one through.

And put the engine in on my own, which was pretty difficult because I haven't been to the gym in ages.

The new engine mounts are on. I think they were from Kam racing.
The lower gearbox mount is a Powerflex thing with a solid rear bush - so that's all nice.

The little things have taken the time, connecting the water matrix pipes, throttle cable, clutch cable, gear links... so I'm behind schedule of having it running before Christmas day.

Happy Xmas to those left on the forum.

Oohh getting exciting now

Good progress even if slow. Chassis looks rust free too!

fitting an engine alone is one of the worst things to do.. especially in the cold so credit where its due (unless you have a heated garage.. and if you do you suck)

good updates dude... happy Christmas to the only other turbo wicked red saxo on the forums that is active ;)

I've heard about some polish people putting passat turbos on saxos/106's :bump:
Seems to work, but we rarely put forced induction on cars, if somebody does some mods to a saxo there its mostly for amateur rallying so they have to adhere to certain regulations.

Anyways, amazing color, i don't think there are many like that in Poland. In general, we don't have alot of VTS's or 106's.
Good thing about it is that saxo was never viewed as a chav car there - we had e36 for this and civics.
But boy I wish we had more driving around. Till now I've only seen like 4 in person. There are like 5 listed for sale in the whole country.

Golden, blue and this kind of red are the best looking saxos mate.
Great project, good luck.

Happy new year.

Delays delays delays... but back on it again now, only a couple of hours a week though.

Measured up a new location for the smaller, but thicker, radiator.



I've had to use a joiner to extend the lower rad hose, but I can use a old OEM top rad hose in this location, so that'll do.

Doesn't leave a lot of room between itself and the turbo however...




I've also bought another french project car, as you do.
A 182 for really cheap. Not sure what to do with that yet. However, it is making space very tight in the garage, so I'll either use it or sell it when the weather picks up.

A bit more done, should be able to progress to starting it shortly.

Mocked up where the oil cooler and intercooler are to go, with the new radiator. I have made some new brackets to sit the oil cooler straight! so the pic is a 'before'.



It's all a tight squeeze now, so I'll probably revise this all. I'd like it all to be a custom fit, so I'll start saving. But for now, I want it running



I might need a few little intercooler joiners/hoses, but I think i'm 90% there.

The bit that has taken ages to do + has stopped me from progressing has been the downpipe. The new turbo flange is an odd 4 bolt design. I had some flanges made up, but I needed my old downpipe chopping, welding and shaping to the flange, so it can at least get to an exhaust place to have a full manifold back custom thing created.

I accosted my old man, to weld up the flange, make a bell(ish) shape out of some sheet steel I had and it's done now. It will at least allow me to start it, run it to the MOT station and run it to an exhaust place!



I just wish I could take a day or so, to get it all finished, ready to start. I'm going to do my best on a few late nights this week to get the little things finished.

I presume you’re going to have the wideband further down the down pipe than where it’s at in that last photo .

Should be around 2 ft down from the turbo as they don’t like getting too hot and won’t read properly

Yes, I'm having a custom zorst made up, it's just to get the car to MOT station and to the fabrication/zorst place.

The current sensor was in it when I bought the car, presuming it is a wideband... as there are no lights on the dash with the stock ECU.

The new one is an innovate/bosch, but I'm going to restrain from fitting until after speaking to Mr Chipwizards & zorst completion.

Hiya mate, nice work and some dedication to be doing it this time of year, I must point out I ran the same rad and fan setup as you and will say now you will struggle to keep temp down when stationary and on hot days, in the end I had to use the biggest Fan I could fit, almost covers whole rad. I think I started with the spal 8/9 inch and ended up with perhaps a 10/12 inch, either way it was rated at double the airflow of the smaller one and sorted temps in traffic and hot days, once your moving I've had no issues but mines 8v and yours 16 so standard you would of had twin fans mybe, that's what makes me think the 16 may run hotter still.
Either way good luck it's looking good pal

Also what's the need for wideband,if you get it mapped once and properly then I cannot see why you would need to monitor it ? For how much a wideband costs you could buy the emu piggyback ecu Which has boost cut/ fuel cut/ boost control/ launch/ 2 map settings/ standalone fuelling control etc so rather then looking at numbers flashing at you through a afr gauge it will just cut you off if something isn't right.

Thanks for the info about the fan. I'll have to see how I get on.

I switched to this radiator as the core is twice as thick as the stock one. I had a stock rad with twin fans and it wasn't ideal. Having said that, the turbo was water cooled and this one is not, maybe that might assist. I'll just have so see.

The wideband was bought because (earlier in the thread too) I had a predator ECU and I was going to learn how to map the car myself. But as I've decided to stick with the stock ECU, I'll just put it in for flashy lights. I've had it 3 years after all.

---------------

I've just ordered the final bits of intercooler pipe and it should be ready to run! At last.

garret say that the water feed is there to help on shut down so the oil doesn't burn inside the turbo, so not a essential, perhaps a fan on the oil cooler lol, I have mine right at front of bumper at mo but want or need some sort of boxing around it to help its efficiency.
Suppose if you already have the afr gauge then why not use it.

Most people use a wideband purely to catch any problems before major damage happens this can easily be seen on a gauge.

I also ran the exact radiator you have on my vts turbo and had zero problems with running hot on idle . Fitted with an 12” spal fan .

Don’t buy a shite eBay fan as there is a difference to say the least

Innovate stuff never lasts very long, so personally I wouldn't even bother fitting one.

Secondly, if you're 'on it', you're watching where you're going, not a daft gauge and flashy lights. If you drive watching gauges you crash, simple as that.

A low fuel pressure warning is about the only useful addition to the stock temperature gauges if you want to add anything, but it needs to be a 'differential' pressure gauge for it to be truly effective.

It didn't look like a 12" in pic that was all, looks small, I am running the spal 12 and it is good I will agree lol