Pads
 

Not sure if anyone else cares but heres my experience on pads with standard disks at brands yesterday...

Standard pads over heated in 3 laps and warped the disks... Fade got as bad as it would after 5 laps (am running 5.1 fully synthetic fluid) stopping was difficult and long...

Banged come rc6's on the front with std still in the rear and bedded them in for 1-2 laps...

Well the brakes were fully transformed could brake later for less time and stop sooner, no where near as much heat going into the brakes or rims and therefore tyres not over heating...

This is gonna sound stupid but went faster in the straights as well before in the straight would hit 105-108 before braking for paddock after the change i coukd hit 110-112... They helped through clearways as i xould get it stopped quicker and get my foot in earlier therefore more time flat out and also brake later with more confidence at the end of the straight... Also going through surtees i could take it flat in 4th about 85-88 because i knew i could stop before clearways and get round without running out of track...

Hope this helps people

rc6 pads dont bed in as such, these pads are the best pads if you are a serious track whore. also to note the wear factor, i have done a good 5 full days now on a new set, i mean i do near 200 miles on a track day and still about half down, that really not bad going. used some OMP 971c pads which are really really good pads, better than 1155 pads after trying both, but they wear down alot faster. use a full pad in 2 track days.

but serious track cars should had these or rc5+ ones, rc6 even say not for road use or something on the box.

p.s. there that good i got a brand new spare set ready to go after my first set finished early next year.

not try pads like ds2500/3000 but have use 1155, yellow stuff, omp 971c, and nothing came close to what these offered.

Kam racing hooked me up with these and were very helpful and acomodating customer service theyll definately be getting my business agen and theyll have there place on the side of my car :-)

Just to note, there was as much, probably more, heat going into the brake system and wheels as the standard pads. That's just how brakes work. Kinetic energy into heat

Trust me there werent... The wheels were touchable when i come in and the pressures werent as high.... Like for like driving and slowing down laps, ambient temp was the same... Werent on them for no where near as long... With the std pads... Well they caught alight in the garage and the rc6's didnt...

you have to factor in the time spent on the brakes creating heat and the time where the car is dissipating heat.

Okay. The same amount of heat went into the system, but more was removed then previously. Still the same

Because rc6 are design to go up high temps, standard pads are not design to get to the same working temps.

Standard pad works from cold, rc6 pad are rubbish cold.

Do you use temperature laser gun? Good bit of kit to have.

I have rc5+ and also recommend them highly :)

not necessarily. Press the pedal for a shorter time - less generated heat. Peak temperatures might be the same but for a shorter duration.

wish i got the rc6 pads instead of my 1155s, can't fault them but so much better reviews on the CL stuff :y:

Rc6's work from the first pedal push... Std ones dont... Half lap maybe

Yeah have a lazer temp there the nuts, will be using it more on engine work tbh, have some more brake experiments todo tho :-)

Ditto! The 1155s do the job but don't stand up to Donington. Every other circuit are ok though, and they do wear exceptionally well. The 1155s do however just lack that really high temperature performance.

If I was running an aftermarket alloy (rather than bulky VTR jobbies), things may be different - very little air flow around the disc and heat dissipation is terrible (still very hot 30 mins after coming of circuit at Snetterton).

just remember that with the sintered metal pads you need to get the brake dust off with some regular cleaning as the dust rusts....

Good point. A few of the Lotus guys running CL pads have had them stick to the disc after running the cars in the wet. This did result in the friction material breaking away from the backing plate. As I understand a particular batch that suffered complete failure and it does not occur on other batches, but the pads will still stick like you wouldn't believe.

Also worth bearing in mind that sintered pads do not look anything like organic when worn. The edges will be jagged and the pad material will look like it's falling apart.

Well, you're wrong. The kinetic energy is transferred directly into heat energy and the same amount of kinetic energy is transferred regardless of the brake compound. If you can tell me where that kinetic energy goes, other than heat, then i will apologise.

I'm not arguing that. Its about how the heat energy is created and then disipated.
I'll clarify as reading back I was not clear.

To slow from one set speed to a lower set speed then X amount of heat will be created. This is not going to change with what pads you run but whether its removed effectively will differ and will effect things at the next braking zone.
With the uprated pads allowing a shorter effective braking distance the heat spike will be sharper, but there is more time for the braking system to dissipate heat. The discs are then cooler at the next corner. The braking system is not as stressed or at risk of overloading as peak temperatures are kept more in control.
Over time this is why the OE system fails after multiple laps.
In racing you want to want the temperature highs and lows to be as close together as a consistent brake temperature will allow precision lap after lap.

Kev