Sell the VTS wheels and brembos, buy some 14'' steels and some decent rubber and should leave you enough for some beers and a kebab.

Cars looking good though mate, will keep an eye on the progress.

I ended up not selling the Brembo's or the VTS rims, bought Rallye steelies, beers and a kebab?

Work is slowly progressing. Fuck knows if the pics will work, if they don't I'll photobucket em tomorrow, you're not missing anything anyway!

I've bought a new beam from IM Axles, 24mm ARB, 23mm torsionz, -30mm ish, so I have that to lash on with powerflex poly bushes and Bilstein B8's.

Tonight I dropped the fuel tank again, and binned the 3 stud rear beam off, so the bottom of the car is ready to underseal before I refit the new IM beam and fuel tank. Happy days. Hopefully I'll get that done this week.

I'd say B8s aren't really beefy enough for 23mm bars - 21mm max really. They may get you away for a while, but I'd look into swapping them for some blue capped Group N rears, or even better, the black capped ones.

As usual, I've got no idea what I'm doing tbh.

I've got these?

http://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tunin...roen-saxo.html

So it turns out I don't have B8's then?

I'm shit.

So are Group N's not B8's then?

I bought them because they're yellow, blue and sexy tbh.

Edit - God knows what I've got, I'll check the part numbers tonight. They're probably not even for a saxo, lol.

The beam does go on the back of the car doesn't it?

If you have those, then they should be up to the job! As a rough guide, the Group N rears will appear massively beefy compared to a standard damper. From memory, the B8s are a similar in size to standard.

Part number on the sticker will confirm too. :y:

EDIT: Group N vs B8. The rears are noticeably thicker in the flesh.

Beamz-U-Like Update.

I've finally done something, yay. On Sunday MuZiZZle lashed up in his eco weapon and we set about drinking tea and poking the 106 a bit.

I've cleaned up the road grime off the underneath of the boot floor, removed the spare tyre bracket, and then red oxided the jeezy out of it, and applied some hammerites. Should keep it nice for a few years to come, especially with it's current mileage.

Being generally dorty and managing to get more paint on myself than the car, I didn't get many pics, but here we are rolling on 4 studs:



Sadly, that's the first problem. It's nothing like -30mm. More like -70/80mm I'd think. The tyres are sat right up in the arches and there's currently no fuel tank fitted, exhaust, bumper, lights etc, so it'll drop further yet.

Pow:









I've rang and spoken to Martin at IM this morning. Basically the issue is that I supplied my own beam and 23mm torsion bars, and he has no way of knowing what spring rate they equate to, but clearly it's not the same as their own bars they supply. He's kindly offered to adjust the ride height for free if I return the beam, but also as he points out, he has no real way of establishing what the bars spring rate is equivalent to, so without the car, he won't be able to guarantee it'll be right again.

With this in mind, I think the best course of action is for me to adjust it myself on the car, that way it'll be bang on what I want. So that's a job for next weekend.

In the meantime, I'm currently perplexed at wheel choices. I have VTS wheels with 45 profiles, VTS wheels with 50 profiles, and 14" S2 rallye steels with 55 profiles on.

The Rallye steels appear to sit prouder than the VTS rims for some reason, and I thought they'd sit inside the arches more than the VTS rims. FML.

So, it's on 4 stud, but it's the wrong height and I have no idea what wheels I'll be using.

With a new beam it'll be piss easy to adjust the height.

23mm torsions eh? cheeky!

Them stiffz

I'm hoping it should come apart easy like. Top service from IM like either way, he was happy to adjust it for free, or talk me through it, and he was also happy to use his courier for cheap rates if I shipped it back to them to adjust.

Like you say, it should be a doddle really. I've not done one before but I'm pretty happy with how it works I think.

Just make sure and get/make a dummy shocky :)

A who what what now?

Imagine you're talking to an idiot, but with less common sense.

It should be really easy, but before you start get some wd40 on all the bolts etc.

http://www.106rallye.co.uk/members/d...6_specific.doc

This the best guide ive found for lowering :)

Looks fine in this pic:y:, there's a tractor missing its tyres somewhere though.

Also, what did you do looms wise? Just swap 106 for vts, or spliced?

are they all 195 wide? It's the same issue running 15's on a flat arch AX. You can pull the arches out a bit, run narrower tyres (stretch yo!) Or buy wheels with the ET for fords and run the right size spacers to sit them in the right place

how have i not seen this thread before matt...

as above.. see tom walker.. he used to run 185s or 175s on the rear iirc

God knows, you are pretty shit like :homme:

Right bitches, I've done some things. Granted not masses, but real life / sexting muz keeps getting in the way.

The underside of the car from the rear of the boot floor to the back of the front seats has now been ground back of any surface rust where necessary, and then coated in one coat of red oxide and then 2 coats of black gloss hammerite, like a bawss. It's black.

I've also sorted out my ride height finally, it's almost stock height, and stiff as a badger thanks to the bars / ARB etc. It's sat on 195/50/15's currently on the back, on VTS rims. I'm probably going to use these on the road and then lash the 14" steels on for track duties.

Cosmetically it looks shit, it appears to be covered in red overspray from when I painted a mates grille, and a years worth of dust. Yay. It's actually cleaner underneath haha.

I've had the beam off again to paint under it properly, as well as the fuel tank obvs. That's all sorted, and now the beam is back on and torqued up to 85nm in at least 3 places, and the VTS fuel tank is installed, the lines are connected, filler neck is installed, and the pump is wired up. Happy days.

Basically, bar the small matter of zero brakes, the back is essentially finished mechanically. Oh, I need to fit new rear wheel bearings, meh.

I'm intending to get it out tonight, maybe turn it round, sit in it and make some brmm noises, so I'll get a few pics of the new improved ride height, it pissed it down yesterday so I didn't bother.

I sort of need to have a look at the front and maybe put the engine in? A mate came over the other night and helped me fit the Rallye gearbox to the engine, so that's done at least. Bar being fucking hacky, the engine's basically ready to drop back in. Yeaaaaahhhhhhhhh.

thats some good news there mate, i do think this is a proper wicked project (omg how chavvy was that lol)

first proper sleeper I've seen. get then pictures up mate :)

Haha, I figure there's no point polishing a turd, if I can get another set of steelies I'll run them on the road as well, I've found that early ph1 306's came with a 14" version of the 13" 106 escapade wheel trim, so I might get a set of those if I can and rock them with semi slicks, lolzz.

I'll grab some pics tonight, see how we get on.

Westwell, it's a full VTS interior loom conversion, I figured it would be easier to rewire the entire car seen as electricals are basically magic.

sounds like you got it all figured out....

could you not rock the vtr rims? they go for pennies now?

ill check back later tonight :y:

I could, but they look shit :homme: :y:

trololololol