Clunk/Knock when dry steering/low speed steering
 

Hi, after purchasing a mk2 VTS in October and doing an extensive amount of work on it over the winter I have now taxed and insured it. I still have one problem though and it is a loud clonk when I turn and pull away or dry steer.

As part of the rebuild I have replaced lower arms, drop links, top mounts and raised it up to 35mm (it was on atleast 50 when bought). I also replaced the steering rack at the weekend as I had my doubts about the one on the car causing the noise.

It sounds like its from the N/S, and I'm starting to think maybe the spring is moving on the mount as I can't think of anything else that would be causing it. I can feel whatever it is through the pedal box if that helps?

Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Mine seems to have this issue too. Like you I have replaced pretty much everything, however one thing I have not replaced (and I am thinking this could be it) is the nearside driveshaft. The car before I got it had definitely been getting alot of abuse and probably used for launches etc. I get the same clunk if I am not smooth with the clutch. I plan to do the driveshaft soon and see if it cures it.

That said, the brand new top mounts I fitted are actually sticking a bit, mainly the drivers side one. I can see it judder round if I look under the wing while the wheel is turned. Typical. Old ones were probably better... I don't feel it particularly and I know that feeling, since my 306 and previous 306 has / had it due to a sticking top mount. If you had a sticking top mount causing the spring to jump round rather than rotate smoothly, you would probably be able to tell as there is a sort of 'boing' sound/feeling along with the clunk. Also - at least in my case, both on the saxo and on the 306 - it generates a slight pull as the spring has rotational tension in it trying to rotate the strut. I don't think the spring would move in any other direction, the spring pans locate the spring well.

Out of curiosity, what springs did you fit to get it back to the 35mm drop ?

Thank for the reply, I too don’t think it’s the spring, it did it on all 3 sets of springs I’ve had on it! I originally bought some apex off an eBay seller and fitted them and turns out they must have been 50’s too. The second set it bought were sold to me as Pi springs. I really should’ve just bought new ones but i’m A sucker for saving some money.

I had previously suspected a driveshaft, on the 4 poster you can see the wheel ‘jump’ when the noise happens but I can’t pin down what’s causing it.

Hmm. interesting, so you can see the wheel jump at the point the sound occurs? Can you try to watch the spring at the same time to see if it is sticking? (i.e. top mount - I know you've replaced those but still).

Have you tried putting your hand on various bits whilst it clonks to see if you can feel what it is? I hate clunks, and yet I have two old french cars (one of which is lowered and stiff) and a classic mini! I clearly don't learn!

It's impossible to see up into the turret to be honest, it will only do it with the weight on the wheels so jacking it up to get a view is pointless. But yes, you can see the wheel jump/jerk when the noise occurs. It's what led me to change the rack.

very weird. I would have said the only thing that could do that would be sticking top mount bearings, causing the spring to stick then jump round. I know you changed the top mounts though, but then again so did I and mine stick a bit now with the new ones (old ones didn't but changed them cause I had the struts off anyway).

The engine mounts are all shite on these. I'd honestly replace them all for what it costs

Also check track rod ends/balljoints etc.

I did wonder about the upper gearbox mount. The lower one has been polybushed at some point. Track rods and track rod ends are all good.

FYI if anyone’s interested, the upper box mount was shagged and someone’s previously used electric tape to attempt to make do! The engine mount main bolt (from underneath it) was also loose. Replaced them both properly and the noise has gone, along with a large amount of dash rattle as a bonus.

Spoke too soon, it’s back this morning ��

Noticed today that the o/s shaft is wrong, it’s not tapered like the wheel bearing. The n/s one is correct though so I’m doubting the clonk is related to the o/s shaft

Hi, have you tried tightening the nut on the shock absorber, just under the dust cover ? With a pair of mole grips, of not try to change the strut top mounts.<br><br>Sent from my SM-T560 using Tapatalk<br><br>

I ended up replacing the struts and the problem appears to be resolved. The locking nut on the old struts were reasonably tight but could've caused the knock, the shocks themselves had no rebound so were also no good.

Good, mine although i have replaced everytiphing in the front, it was fine until a few days ago it began to creak a bit in the front, im just going to ignore it haha<br><br>Sent from my SM-T560 using Tapatalk<br><br>

Driveshaft knocking under-load, arm links or shocks - could be either of them? My banged under-load, so i got both driveshafts done. Now it's knocking slightly, which is the shocks and arm links. Which i'm replacing in June.