Bleeding coolant system (New with pics)
 

Right so seeing this morning some one had bumped the thread from 2006 with comments of this is useless with no pics. As I was flushing my system and re filling with antifreeze coolant I thought I would make a guide with pics.

The first step is to make a header tank I use a Lucozade bottle as they have a huge screw top so you use less tape to make a seal.

Th header tank is basically to make the rad filler the highest point in the cooling system making it easier to bleed all the air from.

Step 2 is to remove all bleed points in the system.

This one is in the left hand rear side of the bay and is a hand tighten point with your fingers.

This one is on the right hand side of the block and is a size 5 brass Allen bolt but you can also use the big bolt witch is a 19mm socket job to remove.

And the last one is on the right hand top of the radiator. and is a half turn and pull.

Once all the points are removed you want to fill or top up you're system. I personally use a 50%-50% water and antifreeze mix. Please note that different colours of antifreeze shouldn't be mixed so use like for like.

you want to top up the system so the "lucozade header tank" looks like this.

Once you are at this point you want to turn the heaters on full and hot. This circulates the coolant around the heater matrix and helps remove any air that may be trapped in there too.

Once you start topping up the coolant you are watching the first bleed nipple as soon as it stops bubbling air screw the top back on. and do the same with the second bleed point.

Now its time to start the engine.

once the car is a little warm and the thermostat opens the Third bleed point will start to bubble and leak once it stops bubbling replace the top(WARNING WATER WILL BE HOT). just remember to keep topping up the Lucozade bottle to keep it the high point in the system.

Now all bleed points are secure you are looking for bubbles in the Lucozade header tank. once bubbles stop gargling to the top you are just waiting for the fan to kick in. Once the fan has kicked in and turned off. I advise you wait for it to come on again then turn off the engine.

With the engine off give the top hose from the engine a good squeeze to make sure no air is in there and remove the header tank and you want to some how remove the water in the radiator factory tank to just under the Max line Use a piece of hose to suck it out or I just use a cheap baster from Asda was 99p.

Job done.

Flushing/Bleeding the radiator

just to add in aid to help others.

got garage to flush my system but next day level dropped. dont know what antifreeze they used so i just topped it up with bluecol. The coolant looks cloudy now? cant get a antifreeze tester in there because it's too small... but not had any problems.

Good guide

But the second pic, the brass Allen bolt is the bleed point.. It has a hole drilled half way down it when you turn it out :)

As such they snap very easy when you tighten them up again, so be careful :y:

Lol that's why I don't use it to bleed mate. Had a few snap on me. Just easier to use the 19mm one and tbh most of the time I don't use the bleed points just the header tank.

Could be a few different things. Could just be the coolant has picked up dirt and corotion from around the coolant system and waterways.

Could also be the antifreeze you put in doesn't like the one the garage used. Best bet would be to flush the system and use a coolant that you know is suitable for saxo's such as blue col or prestone blue.

As above also if you do a google/ebay search you`ll find antifreeze testers with a long neck(garages use them)the halfrauds 1`s are crap.

like this mate. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SYKES-PICK...item589931416d

was looking on here the other day about flushing and refilling coolant. is it the same process for a diesel?

A good guide, very good

Good guide mate.

'Once you are at this point you want to turn the heaters on full and hot. This circulates the coolant around the heater matrix and helps remove any air that may be trapped in there too.'

I thought saxos needed to be running for the fans to work? - mine does anyway :y:

It's just habit mate some vw's and fords with the Volvo engines will circulate water through the matrix with the ignition turned off. Eitha way you want the heater turned on when bleeding so it doesn't really matter when you turn it on.

Brilliant. I'm sure it'll help many.

thanks for guide, but this is going to sound completely shit, so you keeping putting coolant in the "header tank" until its at the points shown so you are raising the level from normal to force the air out better? then once completed all steps ill need to take the coolant back down to operating lvls?

sorry about the newbie question and brill guide!!

correct dann

Great guide!

I'm currently in the process of a cambelt and waterpump change so will be following this guide soon.

After a bit of pondering about what might make a good header tank I've decided to purchase these:

http://www.sportsdirect.com/sondico-...lcode=84013190

I'm going to trim one down to a tight fit and secure with a hose clip. Will report back on how I get on...

Citroen sell their own header tank as well.

I've heard they exist, never seen one though, with so many citroens in the family may be a worthwhile investment!

Only you can answer that mate,just making you aware of it.:y:

Cambelt & waterpump change complete.

The cones I mentioned earlier worked a treat:



They come in a pack of 6, so I now have a citroen one to keep and 5 others to cut down if I carry out a coolant change on something else.

ummm glad it worked for you mate, me personally wants to stick with a clear tank as i can then see if its bled properly with visible bubbles etc.. but good thinking lol