JP4 ITB's High Comp Saxo VTS ( Engine in and Running Mapping next )
 

Engine Spec
Block
TU5JP4
Wossner 12.2:1
Pec Forged Rods
LAD Balanced/Knife-edged/Lightend Crank

Head
Ported JP4 Head
Newman PH3's JP4 spec
J4 Valve Springs
VTS Cam Pulleys

Induction
KMS DTH Taper Bodies
90mm Trumpets

Fuel System
Stock Intank Pump
1L Swirl Pot
Bosch 044
Custom Loom for pump
Fuel Lab Filter
AEM Adjustable Fuel Pressure Reg
Pico 330's
AN6 Stealth Black PTFE Lines
Stealth Black Fittings


Interior
Stripped barring roof liner and carpet
Seats
Sparco Evo 3 for me
Sparco Evo 2 for the passenger


Electronics
DTA S40Pro ECU
Sandy Brown Engine Loom
Race-Technology
Dash 2
Fuel Pressure
Oil Pressure
EGT Sensor
all other readings via Can-Bus from Ecu

Drivetrain
VTR Box
Quaife LSD
AP-Racing 7.25 4 Puk Clutch
AP Racing 50mm HD Release Bearing
Spoox Custom bearing carrier
Braced Clutch Lever

Suspension
Bilstein Group N fronts
Skip Brown 220lb Springs 40mm
Bilstein Group N Rears

Wheels
TD Pro 1.2's
Prada Spec 2

Brakes
406 Brembo Caliper
Feredo DS2500 Pads
285mm Grooved and drilled Disks
Fog Light Air Ducts

I have to say something I'm afraid, I wouldn't risk that crank in an engine. It may have overall end to end balance, but the internal balance and counter-weighting are going to be way off, so the odds on failure are high.

what makes you say that sandy? are you seeing something im not?

I would of just got the standard crack, balance, and polished, checked for ovality. These cranks are very good standard cranks. But Looks like it going to be a good biuld! Good luck with it. :)

Few trusted engine builder out my way have warned me about lighten ect of these cranks. Not 100% sure on the in's and out's but was told not to do it.

I've spent a long time working on VAG motors in the past, especially the 1.8t and 12v vr6, and never had issues with working on stock cranks

looking around at a few french builders, some do it and some don't seems to be a french thing lol

I know people do it. But I took my crank to these people who looked at it and said to leave these cranks alone. Well bar from balance the crank with everything else I.e. blue printing. But not to knife edge it ect. Could be different with other cranks. But I showed him mine and they just said to balance and polish it ect.

What sort or RPM are you looking for? i would use a lightened OEM crank either. Shell looks pretty awsome like and the rest of the spec sounds noice!

RPM isnt the goal, on the cams im using 7500 rpm is as far as theyll make anything.
accelleration is key, getting the rpm to lift freely is key reducing rotating mass and static drag through oil....

Im not after making high power, just power that is smooth, fully usable and the right amount for a balanced track car and daily runner ( when needed )

Id go for a billet then or just stick with pulling it out of the flywheel/clutch.

Dont forget the huge savings in the pullies too - over 1kg.

Mine rev's up more than quick enough with the standard crank ;)

Right nice mate

Exhaust Update
 

Update
Been looking into manifolds for the car and have decided on this one

Maniflow Competition with additional flex joint and 200cel hiflow cat added.
Not cheap but worth it

Spent about 30mins on the phone with them, really good to chat to.

sounds like it will be a pretty awesome build

can you PM me some info on the maniflow manifold please

Get Mike Edwards to make you a custom jobbie up, cheaper than maniflow, longer primaries and better quality too :D

who's mike edwards?

wait im guessing edwardsmotorsport.com ?

just contacted with requirements

Dude where in leeds/brad are you based? Would love to pop by whilst this is in the making. I make a good cuppa:y:

Picked up Crank today looks really nicely done and feels a lot lighter, has been knife edged, flattened and balanced

then due to comments, spent hours looking into Frenchies and KE,L,B Cranks

End result... Its staying, I have found quite a few builds where they have been used, no one with any issues.
This one in particular seems to be very nice..

The only questions against are the end balance and how it effects harmonics at static rpms

To combat this I would suspect the use of either a fluid or stock harmonic damper would be best over moving to alloy pulleys, helping to maintain harmonic balance while still freeing up rotating mass... Opinions?

To be sure I am going to get it to a machine shop and get it re-balanced with full clutch, pulley, and rods/pistons