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-   -   Building Saxo VTS Race Engine (http://www.saxperience.com/forum/showthread.php?t=452509)

boylin 18th June 2013 17:40

Building Saxo VTS Race Engine
 
I am purchasing a standard VTS engine and standard ECU & loom.

I am creating a race engine to put in a VTS at a later date.

Just wondering what's to know about building a VTS race engine, like the ECU, cams, head etc. Just after a general bit of info.

This is my thread and i will keep putting pics etc on here of the progress.

KieranHopkins 18th June 2013 17:43

This question is so vague

AlexB 18th June 2013 17:45

Right
What power are you aiming?
That will dictate everything else

AlexB 18th June 2013 17:45

Double

andyyy 18th June 2013 17:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by KieranHopkins (Post 6330218)
This question is so vague

After you were just told the same thing on another thread lool , I agree tho be more specific also there is an area for progress thread's

Ross 18th June 2013 17:47

Actually what race series will you be in as THAT will dictate everything else :p

But yeah - what's your power goals/needs for the series you're entering?

KieranHopkins 18th June 2013 17:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by andyyy (Post 6330225)
After you were just told the same thing on another thread lool , I agree tho be more specific also there is an area for progress thread's

I asked about stripping methods, I don't see how that is the same as this..

boylin 18th June 2013 17:52

Ok when i start the project, hopefully by the end of the week, i will put the thread in that section.

I'm not too sure what options are available for this engine, never had a saxo before.
I would be looking for a high revving engine without blowing it up, maybe towards the 130+bhp figure.

Just after a fast, high revving engine thats strong enough to handle high revs.

Ross 18th June 2013 17:56

So not a race engine, just a "more powerful engine"?

130bhp from a vts engine is easy. Filter, exhaust, done.

Look in the sticky threads in the engine/performance section - that'll see you looked after for a few hours. Come back when you've digested that :)

boylin 18th June 2013 17:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ross (Post 6330234)
So not a race engine, just a "more powerful engine"?

That's why i'm here, looking to see whats available?

Ross 18th June 2013 17:58

As above :)

greyjasper51 18th June 2013 17:59

So erm... Panel filter cams decat and remap... 135bhp... Really is that all??

jeffchiz 18th June 2013 18:06

for 130 bhp there will be no need to rev high as the max bhp will be below the current limiter

a decent manifold, exhasut system and induction mods would see 130bhp

to get around 150bhp this can be done on fast road cams such as catcam 743's or newman ph3's along with a remap fo the oem ecu the limiter will usually be put up to 7800rpm, but this limit is safe with vts head internals

after this is your choice you cna go for some headwork next but i personally would only go to the expense of getting head work done if i was going downt he bodies route again

so a set of throttle bodies can be bolted on, you wont see a great deal amount of bhp but you will achieve more torque and a smoother power curve, you will get around 160bhp

however if you are getting bodies then you might as well use cams that actually need the extra air provided by the bodies such as newman ph5s or the equivilent catcams, these cams will require high comp pistons or your oem pistons machining due to valve clearences, with headwork you could see 190-200bhp for this amount of modification arp conrod bolts and stiffer valve springs and solid lifters will be used for the higher revs

over 200 bhp has been seen with custom cams and some magic headwork, recessing valves etcc

this advise is obviously only for n/a tuning

boylin 18th June 2013 18:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffchiz (Post 6330240)
for 130 bhp there will be no need to rev high as the max bhp will be below the current limiter

a decent manifold, exhasut system and induction mods would see 130bhp

to get around 150bhp this can be done on fast road cams such as catcam 743's or newman ph3's along with a remap fo the oem ecu the limiter will usually be put up to 7800rpm, but this limit is safe with vts head internals

after this is your choice you cna go for some headwork next but i personally would only go to the expense of getting head work done if i was going downt he bodies route again

so a set of throttle bodies can be bolted on, you wont see a great deal amount of bhp but you will achieve more torque and a smoother power curve, you will get around 160bhp

however if you are getting bodies then you might as well use cams that actually need the extra air provided by the bodies such as newman ph5s or the equivilent catcams, these cams will require high comp pistons or your oem pistons machining due to valve clearences, with headwork you could see 190-200bhp for this amount of modification arp conrod bolts and stiffer valve springs and solid lifters will be used for the higher revs

over 200 bhp has been seen with custom cams and some magic headwork, recessing valves etcc

this advise is obviously only for n/a tuning

Woah, awesome information right there. Thanks

What sort of ECU's would be the best for the above setups?

jeffchiz 18th June 2013 18:34

preadator is by far the easiest and cheapest to use cost around £500 and include a free road mapping session, plug and play

only drawbacks is a proper remap on a dyno will always be best so you could still have that expense (cost me £270 to have my vts mapped at northampton motorsport with catcams 708's and throttle bodies with a predator ecu)

also there are limited gargaes that will map a predator, iirc i was the first person to get a preadator mapped at NMS and it took a bit of persuading as they normally use emerald ecus which are recomended by pug1off tuning company, however they were plesently surpsied at how easy it was to map

ecus such as emeralds cost more at the outset just for the unit, also as they are universal a loom needs to be made up or a plug and play looms can be bought but obviosuly at extra cost and then the cost of a remap will usually push the final bill to over a grand just for management

emeralds are accepted at a lto of garages, and there are a lot mroe of them about etc and they ar a brand name, which people pay for, if you just want a cheap ecu that will run your engine then the preadtor is the way to go

AlexB 18th June 2013 18:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffchiz (Post 6330254)
they normally use emerald ecus which are recomended by pug1off tuning company

nms are an omex supplier
pug1off supply emeralds and get nms to map but if you go to nms for an ecu youll likely end up with a 600 series

lots on here use omex ecus
tbh if i was doing a project like this i would go standalone before anything if you plan to improve at a later date

breathing mods and a proper mapped standalone will do you good for 130 easy but its a lot of expense if you dont plan to upgrade later on

jeffchiz 18th June 2013 18:51

ah ok i just assumed, you no what they say about assuming and all that lol

AlexB 18th June 2013 19:09

lol i know man
just thought id say as i got my omex off them
i know a few guys who have

KamRacing 18th June 2013 19:36

What's the car going to be used for?

welshpug 18th June 2013 19:43

how big is your wallet?


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