funnily enough Jim, I was having palpitations last night about my current nightclub stuff and my previous nightclub stuff - my older stuff was much sharper, and contrasty and colourful
First I thought maybe the lens was shagged, did a back-to-back test against the 10D and the 40D... fine. Then I realised I'd had the 40D sent for repair back in august, the buggers had reset all my parameters.
on the 10D... I have the following settings
Sharpness +2
Contast 0
Colour Tone +1
Saturation +1
I lower the sharpness to +1 if I'm shooting high ISO else the grain is very pronounced. If I'm shooting Jpg I much prefer the sharpening by the camera algorithms rather than by an external software. If it's RAW then you haven't got a choice other than to do it externally.
I rarely shoot RAW unless is studio or 'arty' kind of stuff where I know I'll end up PP'ing to hell and back. The nightclub or the motorsport stuff I never bother.
Simply doing a USM I'm not convinced is the way forward either (I don't), it's great if the image is fairly sharp already, but if you have a shallow DoF it really messes up the out of focus parts, looking more like one of those heavily compressed Jpegs. Similarly if it's graining it can look horrendous. So I'd suggest being selective about it. Use the magic wand or similar to select the subject or area you want sharpening then sharpen just that. leave OOF bits well alone
it's a bit like HDR though, people will think 'yeahhhhh MAX settingssssss' and it looks poop but for some reason people will love it. so just go easy it'll never save an unsharp to start with photo, but it can really enhance a good photo.
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