[sri_130]

Originally Posted by dturbo

If you are checking codes, does this mean you have lexia? If so, then check throttle position. On later cars, it will show percentage or degrees of open, on early ones you just get idle, mid and full.

One thing you could try, is just to rule out the Idle control valve. Start the car, wait a minute or two then disconnect it. Car will run fine with the Idle valve disconnected. ActuallyI often disconnect mine if using on the track as it allows the revs to drop quicker which is better for quick gearchanges. If that makes no difference you are likely looking at TPS as the only other thing to try.

Cutting out after rough running, however can be the lambda (though you say have changed that) . On my car with a broken wire in the cable to the lambda sensor, the car was fine until warm (lambda is ignored until past the temperature considered to be warmed up by the ECU). Then it would start to run rough, get worse over the course of a minute say, then die. Start up straight away again fine and repeat the cycle. Basically the ECU was wrongly adapting the fuelling based on the lambda signal (which was wrong due to the broken wire). Once the car was restarted, those adaptations were cleared hence it could run again and repeat the process.

Again, if you have diagnostics you should be able to look at the lambda reading, it should fluctuate between around 0.1V and 0.7V (roughly, main thing is that it should swing around within roughly a 1V range) - when warmed up. If it is stuck at a set value then there is still an issue with the lambda, e.g. wiring issue since you have changed the sensor.

Unfortunately my 3 plug ECU has the software version that limits obd output to next to f*ck all. I need to ask Wayne to stick the correct revision on it, when I take it back to get mapped again.