JP's 220+bhp NA 16v Mango Westcoast - 2015 updates! - Page 48 - Saxperience

Ryan^p · 26th January 2012, 18:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpsaxo

Anyway....as Sandy says, the most important thing is drivability, midrange power, not talking figures down the pub

It's a shame most people ignore throttle bodies and the overall improvement over the curve because they don't give huge peak figures.

Will be good when back though, the noise of the solid lifters alone make it more fun

crisppug · 26th January 2012, 19:36

Awsom info on this thread

i think once you have a modified engine you do realise how the power delivery/curve is very important.as there is no point having say a jump of 70hp in say 1000 rpm - as this becomes very undriveble.

im looking forward to hearing your oppinions josh once you have got used to this engine

Ashleyp · 26th January 2012, 20:03

Good stuff Josh, suprised you've not got bored of this after all the changes!

looking forward to the end results dude

Olly · 26th January 2012, 22:06

sounds like you should have got a twingo jp. Sandy, why havent you advised your customers to swith to twingo's too?

hard_corejoeboy · 26th January 2012, 22:08

Cos he wouldn't make any money....duh!

Sandy309 · 27th January 2012, 06:19

If it was all about the money Joe, I wouldn't be building engines! I left my last proper job earning about 3x what I earn now.

I would agree that alot of people would benefit from tuition, or practice and standard cars for many people are a better choice than modifying; not sure about doing a scrapyard challenge V6 conversion though, I've seen some very nasty cars like that. The common thread among my customers is the passion for the cars (even some oddballs, like a Citroen Visa or V8 Metro). I think you understand that really and if you don't, you're probably not qualified to criticise.

AlexB^p · 27th January 2012, 09:19

Rushy a westcoast doesnt have half the stuff you listed
only pas iirc

A forged balanced motor weighs less in total than oe and parts like stripped back looms ect that make the difference

The bits you cant see add up hence i got mine with full interior down to 880ish from 960 standard with a lot of the big stuff (pas abs leccy windows glass and metal panels) still in place
I think i could aim for 860 possibly 850 with full interior due to just stripping little items and my fg bonnet and rear polycarbs

rushy_23 · 27th January 2012, 11:35

Actually forgot this is (was lol?) a Westcoast originally. Good point.

Totally understand, as mentioned a lot of little bits were removed from mine, with your help actually after Danny did the weigh in.

I think 850kgs is possible as you mentioned, dont S2 Rallye's weigh around that much standard?

AlexB^p · 27th January 2012, 11:42

Youd be suprised at whats gone on mine now tbh and once you get inventive with a hole saw the weight just falls away lol tbh i rekon on most cars on here theres at least 5-10 kg the owners have never considered removing because its hidden away where you dont see it

rushy_23 · 27th January 2012, 11:46

Hole saw is a bit too hardcore for me, so you though Alex

AlexB^p · 27th January 2012, 13:37

Dont hole saw.anywere you can see

Then you dont have to be hardcore to live with it
bumper supports and the back of the dash are good areas to start lol

jpsaxo · 27th January 2012, 16:13

Rush - fully stripped
Sound deadening all removed (apart from top of the dash which I choose to keep in)
Tar removed
Loom from dash to the back stripped and unnecessary bits removed
Carbon boot / poly carb rear window / carbon spoiler
Carbon roof
Carbon roof cross members
Front door cards removed
Carbon Kevlar seats (will save loads of weight vs standard ones)
Seat bars welded in (alot lighter than standard subframe)
Aluminium side mounts (lighter than steel ones)
OMP steering wheel (lighter than standard)
Dash lightened

Don't forget;

- I still have a full carpet
- Cage ADD's another 20kgs compared to standard.
- New exhaust system will be alot lighter than BTB system

rushy_23 · 27th January 2012, 16:58

Obviously Alex lol! I wasnt thinking to attack the outside of anyones car.

Fantastic, the carbon and poly carbs I expect to be the main weight savers.

Ryan^p · 27th January 2012, 17:04

Josh are you going to retail leccy windows like I am?

I really cant be arsed with the ball ache of polycarbing the front windows due to the limitations it brings on the road/toll booth.

jpsaxo · 27th January 2012, 18:35

Just gonna leave the electric ones in for now Ryan, prob go to "windy" windows when I can be arsed to change them over.

Rush - roof (inc cross members) saves over 20kgs
boot inc spoiler and polycarb saved 20kgs, so there's 40kgs.

If I went full out with the hole saw, got all the loom stripped down and did a few other bits I could get it to 775kg's I reckon. I'll save that for another year

scottie_436 · 13th February 2012, 15:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpsaxo

Just gonna leave the electric ones in for now Ryan, prob go to "windy" windows when I can be arsed to change them over.

Rush - roof (inc cross members) saves over 20kgs
boot inc spoiler and polycarb saved 20kgs, so there's 40kgs.

If I went full out with the hole saw, got all the loom stripped down and did a few other bits I could get it to 775kg's I reckon. I'll save that for another year

You need a S1

mines lighter than your predicted figures as it stands now

Ash

hard_corejoeboy · 27th January 2012, 20:40

Could always remove the vt bodykit function over form and all that

jpsaxo · 4th February 2012, 22:53

No joe that would just be stupid lets be honest.

Stripping of the bay continues...

Brake servo, oil cooiler and wiper motor etc removed

And removed the interior and standard gear shift system so it's ready for satshifter fitting

Then it started snowing so I put her to back to bed...

Sandy309 · 7th February 2012, 19:10

Bit of progress with the head. Starting with a bare JP4 head, bit grubby at the moment and desperately needing improvement!

First thing I do, is attach a bare manifold flange and machine it into the ports, to get it matched perfectly and make starter marks for the hand porting, which helps with the precision. This is one really handy feature of making our own inlet manifolds, it can be made with the head, to get exactly the tract shape and size I want.

At the valve end, I start shaping and sizing upwards from the inside of the valve seat:

One of the most important things to master with porting, is repeating what you've done accurately across all the cylinders! When you get frustrated by the differing core shift of the casting, you know you're getting it! One of my frustrations with this casting can be seen here, the slight dip in the long side left by the factory throat blending machining. They go deeper than they need to and you need to balance losing it with getting the size and shape you want. Compromises have to be made with most head castings, how you manage them matters to the engine you create.

And having got the basic size and shape of the whole tract done using cutting tools, I tend to leave it for another day, so that I can come back with a fresh and critical eye, before commiting to the smoothing and finishing with abrasives.

jpsaxo · 7th February 2012, 19:16

Love it