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Old 8th April 2017, 12:32   #1
VeiRoN
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Default Wishbone bush removal.

Hi,I'm a bit stuck and would appreciate some advice,I'm replacing the bushes for Powerflex ones,I've pressed the front wishbone bush out but only the inner part came out,the inner metal casing is still in and I'm bit stuck on how to remove it,I've tried tapping it out with a hammer and socket but due to the awkward angle due to the wishbone in the way I didn't get far,I'll try to order some washers of the same size to try and press it out but the lip to work on is minimal so not sure that would work,how have you removed yours? Many thanks.

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Old 8th April 2017, 13:19   #2
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chisel and hammer, SMASHUUUU.

or get a hacksaw in and cut two opposing slots and it'll fall out.
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Old 8th April 2017, 15:52   #3
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I've seen on here where people soak in petrol & burn them out.
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Old 8th April 2017, 16:31   #4
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I used a mixture of a hack saw and hammer and punch
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Old 10th April 2017, 20:44   #5
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All done thanks,what worked for me was to cut small slots with a dremel on the front on the metal insert and then with a chisel it would bend easily so that it can be pushed out using a socket and hammer.





Got them all out with not too much struggle apart from that bush,6ton press is enogh for the balljoints FYI.

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Old 16th April 2017, 21:58   #6
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I threw my wishbones in the fire bin in the garden and got them out the next day all the rubber just fell out then hacksawed the metal sleeves and chisel, still not rebuilt them though gonna for the full poweflex bush kit for the car once I get round to it eventually...

The powerflex anti roll bar bushes are worth doing though I did those a while back

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Old 16th April 2017, 22:46   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben_SaxoForte View Post
I threw my wishbones in the fire bin in the garden and got them out the next day all the rubber just fell out then hacksawed the metal sleeves and chisel, still not rebuilt them though gonna for the full poweflex bush kit for the car once I get round to it eventually...

The powerflex anti roll bar bushes are worth doing though I did those a while back
And you just fucked them with the heat. You made them softer they are more likely to snap or bend.
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Old 18th April 2017, 18:46   #8
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Quote:
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And you just fucked them with the heat. You made them softer they are more likely to snap or bend.
Well ill let you know if my wheels fall off when I put it back together lol, I don't think they would of gotten hot enough to do much damage its not like they were glowing red or anything

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Old 18th April 2017, 19:45   #9
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Quote:
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Well ill let you know if my wheels fall off when I put it back together lol, I don't think they would of gotten hot enough to do much damage its not like they were glowing red or anything
Don't need to be, anything over 150 on steel fucks with the molecules of the steel making it soft. Wouldn't have them on my car.
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Old 18th April 2017, 20:25   #10
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Good point,altough I've seen so many people burn the bushes out on Saxos and not and never heard of any such problems,it would take some serious forces or collision to snap cast iron of that thickness considering they are designed to bend and not snap,even for them to bend I really wouldn't see how they would do that with normal or even track-day use.
There's is also the possibility to weld a strengthening plate on the wishbones if worried about that,and on that subject,wouldn't the heat from the welding reach over 150° degrees anyway?
Note: I'm talking about original wishbones from the factory not aftermarket ones that in some cases I have seen have a reduced thickness.
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Old 18th April 2017, 21:05   #11
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You can't weld to cast steel/ iron too many inclusions/ impurities to weld to.
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Old 18th April 2017, 21:47   #12
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Wait,I'm confused,what's this about then?

http://www.spoox.co.uk/en/front-susp...ne+&results=25
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Old 18th April 2017, 21:55   #13
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That's welding to cast steel, do a search on welding cast steel /cast iron heat brings the slag, impurities to the surface making a weak weld. You can pre heat the casting to help the weld take but without the correct heat treat after the piece is both unpredictable in strength and the welds are never going to be the best even using nickel rods or wire. At work we won't even entertain welding cast steel all we will do is braze the 2 pieces but not for strength work.
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Old 19th April 2017, 15:53   #14
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they can also bend under hard braking if you run powerful brakes, how many saxos did you see with wheels far back in the front arch..
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Old 20th April 2017, 05:04   #15
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done mine a few weeks ago, the end bush has a thread so you can undo it once you get it clamped enough (possibly bolt it to something using the end bush), and the middle bush two sockets one large and one just right size put it in a vise and pushed it out these were brand new arms aswell no old rubber
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Old 5th July 2017, 10:42   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bedford126 View Post
You can't weld to cast steel/ iron too many inclusions/ impurities to weld to.
lul



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Old 5th July 2017, 14:43   #17
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The best part of the above is he thinks it's a good weld!! There is hardly any penetration and it's sat on the top of both steel and the arm, just because it's welded doesn't mean it's a good weld.
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