3 Plug ECU unlocking/locking query conversion - Saxperience

VeiRoN · 19th March 2020, 08:48

Hi,I have a VTS wiring loom and and 3 plug ECU,when taking everything off I disconnected the battery and the ECU from the loom,I did not unplug the immobilizer box,am I correct in assuming at this point the ECU is still unlocked?
I'm going to use the ECU for a conversion but if I plug in the ECU to another wiring loom with a different immobilizer box it will lock itself correct?
So I should just need to also swap the immobilizer box from the other loom, correct?
So how do I go about the transponder inside the VTS key? can I also swap that over to the other key? Thank you.

sri_130 · 19th March 2020, 18:47

Yep it is still locked.
Yes, swap the black box over.
No idea with the keys.

VeiRoN · 19th March 2020, 19:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by sri_130

Yep it is still locked.
Yes, swap the black box over.
No idea with the keys.

I found out that rather than trying to prize out the transponder which is a pain I simply pulled the key off for the barrel and swapped it to the plastic with the transponder I need.
Should be okay to do the ECU and immobilizer swap with the battery disconnected yes? Thanks

sri_130 · 19th March 2020, 20:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by VeiRoN

I found out that rather than trying to prize out the transponder which is a pain I simply pulled the key off for the barrel and swapped it to the plastic with the transponder I need.
Should be okay to do the ECU and immobilizer swap with the battery disconnected yes? Thanks

Yeah go for it.

VeiRoN · 24th March 2020, 17:19

So I've done as above but it doesn't want to start,there is no immobilizer light flashing either.
I've got a 12v supply to the coilpack and I've got fuel but the coilpack will not spark, tried with a tester after which I bought a new coilpack (HASS) and still won't spark.
So far I've tried replacing:
Crankshaft sensor
Spark plugs
Coilpack
Moved the earth around on the gearbox/chassis,now I've left it as standard one big one from gearbox to chassis and one on gearbox from wiring loom, I've gone over all the grounds several times and cannot see anything wrong.

On the starter I have a blue ignition signal,one from battery,one that goes to the alternator from the starter and 4 blue wires from the loom going to the starter positive.

I tried connecting pin 3 ground of the coilpack plug directly to earth as I thought maybe that could have been the issue somehow but no luck.

Even removed the immobilizer just now as last option with the ignition on but nothing, I've refitted it now,no light flashing what's so ever.

The wiring loom on engine side is a complete VTS one,all sensors are plugged in correctly.

The inertia switch has been deleted and the wires connected together.

I really would appreciate some help as I can't think of what it could cause this other that what I've already checked.

MartinObviously · 24th March 2020, 18:10

is fuel being injected? when you say you've got fuel

If the injectors are working, then the coil pack should fire as well.

what interior loom are you using?

stevo67 · 24th March 2020, 18:17

Could try tapping the fuel pump(lazy fuel pump)

VeiRoN · 24th March 2020, 19:34

I also have zero error codes on the ECU.
@Martin fuel is coming out the line just fine,I haven't tested the injectors themselves as when I knew I had no spark from the coilpack I just focused on that as I thought that would be the cause of no start.
Interior loom is a 1.1 one.
When you say if the injectors are working then the coilpack should fire are you saying that these will not work without one another? for example if ECU is locked they both don't work? although I haven't got the light flashing at all and it's confusing me.

@stevo fuel prime does work and prime,although it primes for way longer than it usually does when the car was running before all this,i'm not sure why,and fuel is coming out of the line nicely.

There is no ECU ground anywhere nearby the ECU from what I remember right? if it is anything like the 3 plug vtr loom where there is a ring ground terminal near where the starter loom is then I definitely don't have that plugged in on the vts loom.

What about the small black radio suppressor earth that's usually bolted to the engine? I don't have that anymore but that shouldn't prevent spark.

VeiRoN · 25th March 2020, 12:24

Sorry if I'm being daft but where does the ECU 3 plugs get the positive from? all I can see that has a positive are the 4 small blue wires that are plugged to the ignition relay,what am I missing?

I can see number 49 wire on hynes goes to engine fusebox BM01 (MR) brown in colour but I cannot find it on the ECU plugs,only 2 that go to sensors.

VeiRoN · 25th March 2020, 18:16

Okay all good,crank sensor wiring wasn't working properly somehow

Chipwizards · 25th March 2020, 19:45

You should fit the immo box, key body and ECU as a set.

VeiRoN · 25th March 2020, 22:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chipwizards

You should fit the immo box, key body and ECU as a set.

Thank you,so I unplugged the immobilizer with the ignition on just to rule out immobilizer issue,no light flashing,after I plugged everything back in and with the immobilizer and turned the ignition on still all okay,if I was now to plug the ECU back in but just leave the immobilizer out without going through the ignition process again,would that lock the ECU?

MartinObviously · 25th March 2020, 22:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by VeiRoN

Thank you,so I unplugged the immobilizer with the ignition on just to rule out immobilizer issue,no light flashing,after I plugged everything back in and with the immobilizer and turned the ignition on still all okay,if I was now to plug the ECU back in but just leave the immobilizer out without going through the ignition process again,would that lock the ECU?

I was going to suggest that if you've no injectors or spark it can only be the immobiliser or the crank sensor. I see you've fixed that.

So, immobiliser rules:

In order for an ECU to unlock it needs to see a MATCHING chip and black box. If the ECU is locked, ONLY it's original matching key chip and black box can unlock it.

To keep the ECU unlocked, turn on the ignition so the immobiliser can send data to the ECU to unlock it. remove the immobiliser box. turn off the ignition. in theory the ECU will stay unlocked forever.

If you put that unlocked ECU into another car, it will re-lock itself unless you remove the new vehicles black box.

Lastly, if it's all working, why are you trying to remove it? Leave it all plugged in

So basically, after all that, what you already knew was correct lol

VeiRoN · 25th March 2020, 23:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinObviously

I was going to suggest that if you've no injectors or spark it can only be the immobiliser or the crank sensor. I see you've fixed that.

So, immobiliser rules:

In order for an ECU to unlock it needs to see a MATCHING chip and black box. If the ECU is locked, ONLY it's original matching key chip and black box can unlock it.

To keep the ECU unlocked, turn on the ignition so the immobiliser can send data to the ECU to unlock it. remove the immobiliser box. turn off the ignition. in theory the ECU will stay unlocked forever.

If you put that unlocked ECU into another car, it will re-lock itself unless you remove the new vehicles black box.

Lastly, if it's all working, why are you trying to remove it? Leave it all plugged in

So basically, after all that, what you already knew was correct lol

lol,well let's say that a friend might have lost my immobilizer and I might not find it ever again so might try to risk it with the VTS ECU instead of using a 1.1 ECU on the VTS which seems to idle fine but I wouldn't know about driving it.

Yeah,new crank sensor wiring sorted it,no idea what was wrong with the old one, couldn't really see anything wrong.

Edit: to answer to myself,the VTS ECU did work without the immobilizer as I have unlocked it previously,glad that worked.

MartinObviously · 26th March 2020, 21:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by VeiRoN

lol,well let's say that a friend might have lost my immobilizer and I might not find it ever again so might try to risk it with the VTS ECU instead of using a 1.1 ECU on the VTS which seems to idle fine but I wouldn't know about driving it.

Yeah,new crank sensor wiring sorted it,no idea what was wrong with the old one, couldn't really see anything wrong.

Edit: to answer to myself,the VTS ECU did work without the immobilizer as I have unlocked it previously,glad that worked.

Good

don't use the 1.1 ecu with the 16v engine, the ignition table is all wrong for it

Wayne told me NO, never ever ever ever. lol