JP`s 250hp sold. Evo 8 replacement

[Krys_23]

Very tidy man, I'd love to own a saxo/106 with a jp4 engine.

[aksaxovtr]

nice lookin saxo mate,id love a jp4 aswel are they basically the same as a vts to fit?? mounts in the asme places etc??

[john-paul]

Originally Posted by Slugshead

Heres the full engine bay wiring diagram, can label things but it'll take a while lol

iv got this off auto data but it doesnt give the pin numbers for that plug m8 thanks anyway

[john-paul]

Originally Posted by aksaxovtr

nice lookin saxo mate,id love a jp4 aswel are they basically the same as a vts to fit?? mounts in the asme places etc??

thanks and the mounts are different but the bolt holes are there to swop all the mounts over it only look a day 2 take the old one out swop everythink over and get the new one in and that was in my back street by myself lol.

[Slugshead]

Originally Posted by john-paul

iv got this off auto data but it doesnt give the pin numbers for that plug m8 thanks anyway

Think the pin layouts are there somewhere, just an odd program to navigate around

[john-paul]

Originally Posted by Krys_23

Very tidy man, I'd love to own a saxo/106 with a jp4 engine.

chears and i think they are a lot smoother than the j4

[john-paul]

Originally Posted by Slugshead

Think the pin layouts are there somewhere, just an odd program to navigate around

yeah it a bit odd al have a look in it see if i can find them looked befor but with no luk

[john-paul]

Originally Posted by Slugshead

Think the pin layouts are there somewhere, just an odd program to navigate around

pin numbers arnt on there m8 still cant find there anywhere

[vtrsarah]

im jealous of how clean the paintwork is

[john-paul]

Originally Posted by vtrsarah

im jealous of how clean the paintwork is

I wouldnt be m8 its a state lol will be getting out right when i can get my arss into gear ang get it sorted for the body shop

[vtrsarah]

Originally Posted by john-paul

I wouldnt be m8 its a state lol will be getting out right when i can get my arss into gear ang get it sorted for the body shop

it looks lush in the first few pics

[johnnyg_vts]

how did the saxo loom work with the jp4?
do the plugs match up?

[john-paul]

Its fine because you swap all the sensors over.


Still could do with a spear loom but that because i wanna make a loom for my new ecu

[ryan_g86]

Im sending you a pm bud. cheers

[kill_switch]

love the wheels on page 1 mate

[john-paul]

Originally Posted by ryan_g86

Im sending you a pm bud. cheers

never got any pm m8 whats it about

[john-paul]

there should be a little bit prgress soon.
am still messing a round with the ecu think i am going to end up pigy backin the standered ecu so i can still keep all the dials working.
also ordered new induction hoes`s so i can connect the breathers properly and get some cold air lol.

still waiting to get it into the body shop to dont know if i should get a fiberglass bonnet or just a new standered one there pritymuch the same price just would have to fit bonnet pins


let me know what you all think will get some pics up as soon as everything is sorted

[ryan_g86]

Sorry bud it would not let me pm you as you have set your account to not receive private messages:- anyway i wonder if you could clear this up before i set about doing it. My jp4 started up nicely yesterday after messing around and realising the immobilizer had be re-coded. I was unaware that i had to tap a hole up in my jp4 block using a m10 bolt as its not used with the vts oil filter setup, im using the one with the two take off like so:-



(Picture taken from Carl Gibsons blog i hope he don't mind me using it)

So basically after 5 minutes of the car running i found a nice puddle of oil on my garage floor coming from the oil filter. Ive got a picture below taken from FinchysSaxo's guide on How to : Fit 4-2-1 Raceland to 1.4/VTR MK2's (Hope you don't mind me also stealing your pic ;-))



Is this the same as what i have to do to my jp4. Help appreciated mate.

[john-paul]

TU5JP4 oil filter relocation

remove the oil pressure switch from the oil filter housing ( 22mm ).
- Remove the entire oil filter housing, it's loose internal parts and the oil filter by unbolting the four bolts ( 10mm) indicated with the yellow arrows in 'Picture 1'
- Remove the plug in the oil pressure hole, indicated with the blue arrow in 'Picture 1' and bolt the oil pressure switch, removed from the oil filter housing, in the hole. Use a new copper washer to make sure the oil pressure switch won't leak in it's new position.
Final result visible in 'Picture 2'


.

- Once the oil filter housing has been removed you will find a hole in the engine block, the location of the hole is indicated with a red arrow in 'Picture 2'
- The size of the hole is about 7 mm, enlarge it with a drill to 8,5 mm
- Tap M10 thread in the hole. (tap M10 x 1.5)
- Make sure you clean the hole from any iron particals that are still in the hole.
- Make sure to clean the engine sump from any particals that have fallen in.
- Inspect the inside of the engine block to make sure all the remaining iron debris is removed.
- Screw a short (about 1.5 mm) M10 bolt in the hole, be sure to use a suitable washer (copper or an iron one with a rubber insert) to make sure there won't be leaking any oil. .



- To mount the new oil filter; screw a suitable piece of threaded pipe (Peugeot part number; 1103 54, can be obtained from almost any Peugeot or Citroën vehicle) in the thread that is already tapped in the engine block. Make sure the threaded pipe stays in it's position, either with a small weld or a suitable nut.
- Mount the new oil filter. Use a FRAM PH5796 oil filter.
- Done.



hope this helps

[ryan_g86]

lovely, perfect guide there mate! thanks for all your help ill give it ago in the morning.