Wicked Red - Turbo VTS - Sri's 'more boost' project

[sri_130]

Seems dead on here, but I shall continue...

Previous problems resolved:
- Fixed the power steering being on - it was a bad earth.
- Codes : Mainly the cabon canister valve, which I have lost! but got one off FB marketplace to stop the EML coming on.
- Idle AFR just sorted itself.
- The Fan was wired wrong (whoops), so that works
- Turbo blanket fitted properly now







All re-assembled and running.



New problems:
- Smoke and misfire on startup.
This was present before, I thought it was the stem seals and had them replaced. However, it hasn't cured it. So presume it is the guides. (surely the machine shop would check this...). Anyway, I borescoped it and can see oil in the piston pocket on 2 cylinders when the engine has cooled.
It runs fine and no smoke on boost etc, just appears when the car has cooled or been off, for a period.
I'm still using cheap mineral oil, whilst running it in, so will see what a 'proper' oil does. Albeit, I'm not expecting anything to change. Its likely the head will need to come off in the future

- Oil pressure warning!
When the car was idling, the oil pressure light was flashing! Just faintly.
Got the pressure testing kit out.



Good cold idle pressure.



Low hot idle pressure. Which is the norm, apparently. The stock Oil pressure sensor is something like 5psi before it triggers the light on the dash. As I'd had to change to a 1/8npt sensor (After market) I'd just gone for anything - which turns out was a fixed 20psi sensor. Whoops. Bought another with a lower value.


The other day, I fitted the Electronic boost controller (Gizzmo) and an oil temperature sensor. The oil temp sensor is to just keep an eye on the values, given I haven't fitted the thermostatic oil cooler as yet. The turbo is oil cooled only, so interested to see the numbers.



Car is clean (ish) and just awaiting an MOT, before more running-in. Running 8 psi, at the moment, until I feel more confident of going back to 20+psi

[scatt]

hello, that is a nice build.
I am building a saxo turbo too (everything running fine so far), but I wanted to change the cooling and go for a diesel header tank too (I have a MS ecu inside the car).
But I am not sure how to connect the tubing to the header tank, I suppose lower tube on the rad goes to the waterpump en you make a T to the lower connection on the header tank ? And the upper connection on the rad goes to the upper connection on header tank ? Or am I wrong ? thank you

[MartinObviously]

Originally Posted by scatt

hello, that is a nice build.
I am building a saxo turbo too (everything running fine so far), but I wanted to change the cooling and go for a diesel header tank too (I have a MS ecu inside the car).
But I am not sure how to connect the tubing to the header tank, I suppose lower tube on the rad goes to the waterpump en you make a T to the lower connection on the header tank ? And the upper connection on the rad goes to the upper connection on header tank ? Or am I wrong ? thank you

Yes that's exactly how you connect it up.

The other small pipe on the header tank can be blocked off.

I'm using 1.5d pipework so I didn't need to cut and T it in.

[scatt]

Originally Posted by MartinObviously

Yes that's exactly how you connect it up.

The other small pipe on the header tank can be blocked off.

I'm using 1.5d pipework so I didn't need to cut and T it in.

thx for confirming !
Apparently that tube is still available new, this should be the correct one ?
https://www.trodo.com/radiator-hose-gates-05-4051

On the diesel there is the third degassing hose that goes to the thermostat housing, any idea why don't need it ?

[sri_130]

Originally Posted by scatt

thx for confirming !
Apparently that tube is still available new, this should be the correct one ?
https://www.trodo.com/radiator-hose-gates-05-4051

On the diesel there is the third degassing hose that goes to the thermostat housing, any idea why don't need it ?

Yes there are 3 outlets on the header tank. The furthest top one, I have blanked off.
The second smaller one on the top, I have put into the top of the radiator.
The bottom outlet, goes into the lower water pipe of the radiator, on the way to the back of the engine.

[sri_130]

I have delayed the MOT but done a few test runs, to see how the car goes.

With this new 'setup' of intercooler and pipe work, engine rebuild etc etc. the actuator pressure is actually 10psi So that's what is boosts to, at the moment.
I presume with the shorter pipe run (literally half the path) with less joiners and a single pass, rather than twin pass intercooler - there are less leaks and less voids to fill, hence the better pressure on the same actuator as before. Could also be the Astra diesel van intercooler was just poo.

It feels ace. The clutch took a few mins to get warm and bed in, but after that, it was all smiles.

https://youtube.com/shorts/EneQYWD1r28?feature=share

I think I wired the oil temperature the wrong way round - as it shows a negative temp! LOL.

https://youtube.com/shorts/PcuLaAw2HVo?feature=share

Only problem came about 15 minutes into the testing. The AFR at idle dropped to 9! Black smoke and hesitation at lower revs.
Got home and plugged it in, to see P0170. Check lambda values and they were either 0.2v or 4.98v! which is crazy.
Unplugged the lambda, but the car stayed the same. Low AFR and struggling to idle.
I left it overnight, but the next day, it started up and was the same. Same odd lambda values reported as well.

Only cure was to clear the codes and it was fine again. Lambda values returned the normal and AFR back at 14.7 on idle.

Not totally sure what is going on, but obviously start with the Lambda replacement. I have a slight concern that it is too close to the turbo... so maybe it is super heating or something. So I've ordered a spacer, to try and get it a bit further away.
The wideband o2 sensor is further down the pipe work and that seems to be ok.

Interestingly my old MT2500 snap-on scanner calls the p0170 code as "fuel injection malfunction" yet google seems to suggest this a is a fuel trim code. Presuming it is just the same thing. Just find it odd, that clearing the codes reset it... hmmm.

Used an old heat gun and some trim restorer, on the exterior.



Also had these rear door cards forever. They fit pretty terrible, but they'll do! Keep the road noise down a little.



Also the blue smoke at startup, seems to be reduced. Unlikely to be fully resolved, but need do a few hundred miles before changing the running in oil and see what happens.

[sri_130]

...and.... it is broken

Oil has coated the entire engine, having come out of the breather on the side of the head. It's one of them little oil filter things.
The remaining oil has been burnt out of the exhaust - all this in, 20 yards.
Checked the dipstick and it's all gone!

Presuming it's the turbo, but not sure.
Damn it.

Will diagnose it and see what the damage is.

[MartinObviously]

Originally Posted by scatt

thx for confirming !
Apparently that tube is still available new, this should be the correct one ?
https://www.trodo.com/radiator-hose-gates-05-4051

On the diesel there is the third degassing hose that goes to the thermostat housing, any idea why don't need it ?

Because on a 16v cylinder head, it's not there because there's no diesel fuel filter to heat.

[sri_130]

Turns out, the turbo is not happy. Probably not happy that it hasn't been used in... well... forever I guess. Similar to how I feel about the entire car!

The intercooler had about a litre of oil in it. The turbo outlet from the compressor, actually goes into a U-bend, that enters the bottom of the intercooler. This U-bend was full. The car had therefore been drinking oil.

Dropped it all out, put some 10/50 fully synth in there and took the pipes off the turbo.



After all that smoke had calmed down, oil is just pissing out of the compressor housing.

Checked the oil drain - not blocked, correct size and facing perfectly south - enters above the oil level in the sump. Checked blow-by = none. Checked oil pressure = normal. Even compression tested the engine - all uniform on all cylinders.

The turbo is now with AET, for their diagnosis. When I removed it, evidence was there to suggest its come through the turbine side seal as well.
Hopefully it can be repaired cheap enough.

[MartinObviously]

Sorry haven't read the whole thread

are you using a bb turbo and is your restrictor restricting the oil flow/pressure enough?

[sri_130]

Originally Posted by MartinObviously

Sorry haven't read the whole thread

are you using a bb turbo and is your restrictor restricting the oil flow/pressure enough?

No it's a journal turbo, so no restrictor.

Just been down to pay/collect it......and..... I have a new turbo!



Bit of a shame, the old one had severe shaft and journal wear, enough to wear the seal grooves and thus leak from both ends. Caused by oil contamination apparently.
Suspect this happened last time I had the engine done.

Will install and go again! fingers crossed.

[MartinObviously]

Ahh I was in the right area, but for the wrong reason.

Maybe needing to upgrade to a super fine oil filter?

[sri_130]

double post

[sri_130]

So, I fitted a new turbo - which was the same as the one that came off.

I put an inline oil filter to it, this time.





Had a couple of dramas with the actuator bracket, as it wasn't the same as my old turbo and thus, wouldn't allow me to fit the bloody thing. But sorted it, in the end.
This turbo also came with studs fitted to the exhaust flange, wherease my old one just required bolts. Prefer the studs tbf.

We are back running. Albeit, at low boost for a while. This rebuild has had a turbulent start, so I'll increase the boost incrementally. This can be done from inside the car now, with the EBC, which is great.



I still have an outstanding issue with the valve guides. I believe these are worn and were not picked up by the machine shop, when I had new stem seals put in/skim/ etc. It is only visible at cold start, where blue smoke appears for about 10 seconds.
I can live with it for now, as the car isn't really used anyway, but it is annoying, considering the effort and cost gone into it, thus far.

Autumn/Winter I would like to focus on the rear. Getting the underside cleaned/protected and dropping the axle to put some polybushes in.

However, for the final few dry weekend days, I'll mostly be booting it around locally, making turbo noises.

[sri_130]

Went for an MOT the other day and it failed

Handbrake cable snapped on the brake tester! Couple of track rod ends needed too, so nothing major. Not much I could have done about the handbrake.

However, I did notice a bit of weeping of oil from the turbo oil return, so I've re-done it properly (was a bodge of two pipes and a joiner). Saw a slight water leak also, but again, just a loose jubilee.

It also fluctuates AFR, between being spot on at 14.7 to 15.7 when idling.
This translates to normal driving, as I can smell it is rich when following + there is a noticeable pop from the exhaust when slowing down. I suspect the Lambda as always. I have some spares, but I've no idea what brand/age/use they've had! So no idea what is in there at the minute. I should just get a new Bosch one bought!

[sri_130]

Bosch lambda installed, codes cleared and it is happy now.
I bought a new oil return line, fitted an oil cooler with thermostatic plate, refreshed the trackrods and handbrake cables...
MOT passed.

Noticed the actuator bracket was flexi'ing on boost, which caused one of the bracket bolts that hold it to the compressor housing to fly off! I was wondering why I didn't get much boost, after turning the EBC up a bit.

At 45% duty, we are running just over a bar.



But the clutch really doesn't like it. It is brand new, literally 10 miles old, so I best run it in + re-evaluate.

Thought about selling the car, but I don't think its worth much + I couldn't afford to replace it with anything decent.
So I'll try get some dry running-in miles done + maybe look to refresh the rear-end (underneath) in the winter.

[sri_130]

Oh..forgot to mention...

I thought I had a bad cylinder head. Believing that the guides were worn. Even though I had stem seals, valves lapped, skim and test at a machine shop. Reason was, it was smoking at startup and oil was pooling on the pistons when the engine had cooled.

Turns out... I think... it was actually the turbo. When the seals went (probably been going for a while) it has been dumping oil in the inlet tract.
I cleared it out, as best as I could - but never removed the intercooler fully for a clean. Using a bore scope, I checked inside the pipework and could see oil still in there. It was also weeping in the throttle body. So it had literally been everywhere.



Cleaned it all out with acetone.
and.... no smoke!

Whether it was 100% that, or maybe 50% or 75% I guess I will see. But it is noticeably different now, when it starts up - hardly anything and no misfire.

[BUMMERS]

Not been on in years but it's good to see you're still at this �� it's very tempting to sell when you've had nothing but problems and want to wash your hands of it. Would be a shame at this point to get rid.

[sri_130]

Yeah, it had it's teething problems, but all resolved now. It was the original turbo all along! Mega hacked off, but glad it's resolved.

I also had reservations about the clutch - but it was just bedding in. Slowly been incrementing the boost and it's settled in nicely.

Been using it in the dry, just giving it steady long runs and have to say....... it's just mad fast. LOL.
You forget how fast it really is, being only 880KG. And the Satchshift is like nothing else. The speed you can change gear from 3rd to 4th is nuts.
I've decided to list it for sale, but still not 100% sure. So will see what happens during it's time being listed. I think keeping it for summer might be on the cards.

[sri_130]

Sold this earlier this year to a lovely chap from Scotland. I saw it had done a couple of track days at Knockhill and Croft, which was good to see it being used.
I had it 8 years!