Jacks Cossack Grey S2 Turbo - Page 10 - Saxperience

Jack-Cooley · 11th June 2013, 20:25

Bought a braided line setup for a 4port system, currently running a 2port one so im either going to have to adapt the setup OR find a 4port 23mm MC

Jack-Cooley · 21st June 2013, 22:12

First off. Engine loom needed stripping back.

Then re-routed through the hole near the brake servo to mount the ecu in the glovebox/interior side of the bulkhead

Then took it back out, labelled everything up and checked which sensors needed extending. turns out its the Map sensor one i think (the one thats on the inlet next to the ecu just above and slightly behind the end of the fuel rail)

well that will need cutting and a cosworth plug putting on anyway since i have a cossie MAP sensor. so thats all good gunna sort that pretty soon.

at the same time i have my Innovative that needs splicing in, it displays the AFR but im not so sure about the current dial. looks tacky as hell so ill probably have to get a proper gauge that i can have mounted where the middle air vents currently are.

The idea is to have ARF, Oil Pressure and Air Intake Temp, they will be in a DIN pod thats moulded into the centre console below the radio. then im going to get the Boost gauge mounted in the inner wing mirror cover if it will fit.

Also got my Non PAS rack. the rubber boot on it was fucked so that came off but how/where do i get a new one lmao?

Springs and suspension legs for the cherry so i can take the GAZ Gha's off for the turbo. they will need refurbishing i think since they seem to be knocking horrendously on the red one at the minute.

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Also guys, where can i get some decent silver paint for the steering rack/track rods ect..

jage · 22nd June 2013, 10:16

undo the bolt on the steering rack and the end slides off, anywhere sells them!

Are you not running omex or whatever any more?

Jack-Cooley · 22nd June 2013, 11:21

I shall have a nosy monday then

Running a KMS mate its plug and play

Jack-Cooley · 25th July 2013, 23:55

Painted some bits

Sorted the bulk head fitting out for the rear part of the braided lines

Built the brembos up with new shiny stuff, got some new seals too along with some paint

Set of new wheel bearings, fronts arent needed just yet as the ones in my current struts are solid so they will be kept as spares.

Turbo Engine arrived at home

Turbo spec cams

Stripped it down

Sump off

Forged pistons

And rods

Gave the Block, Head, Pipes and brackets some fresh paint.

sorted out the bulk head fittings for the rear brakes

New pump, tensioner and idler

B8's got delivered, a bit dirty going to give them some fresh paint and/or a good clean

Ford conversion

The KMS

Teaser of the bumper all painted up

Quick question, does anyone have any idea where i can get new dust covers for the rear dampers as one of them is ripped to hell as if somethings been rubbing on it, and ones a little groggy. and if so how do i fit them over the top of the damper where it bolts through, if not anyone got any idea of how i can repair the current ones as there is little to no contact between the plastic keeping it attached. i'd say its cut around at least 80% of the dust cover.

Thanks.

Plans for next week are cam ladders on and engine timed up, Exhaust manifold revealed, coated and/or wrapped and fitted

Danny78VTR · 14th September 2013, 18:20

Looking good man! Keep up the nice work

Jack-Cooley · 14th September 2013, 18:36

May be finished very soon

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Danny78VTR · 14th September 2013, 19:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack-Cooley

May be finished very soon

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Sweet! How much you pay for the turbo spec engine?

Jack-Cooley · 14th September 2013, 19:33

Engine was like 2k or so

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AndySAXO^p · 14th September 2013, 20:52

Are they 12.9 grade bolts use on the caplier? Some good progress here, like a good home biuld

Jack-Cooley · 14th September 2013, 22:16

Yeah mate and me2 wish it was done already tho

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AndySAXO^p · 15th September 2013, 12:12

8.8 i beileve would be better for that type of use, and home biulds always that longer! But worth it.

gazza808 · 15th September 2013, 13:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndySAXO

8.8 i beileve would be better for that type of use, and home biulds always that longer! But worth it.

Stronger is usually always better. 12.9 over 8.8 all day long.

AndySAXO^p · 17th September 2013, 15:31

Depending on the application it used on, 12.9 is more brittle as it stronger, and used is softer material too as these capliers are alloy material, this is from my experience, and talking to people in the know regarding this, ring caplier company and they will say 8.8 better in this application. Totally up to you to do what you want, just offering some more information.

"When replacing fasteners, it is generally best to match what you are replacing. Replacing a bolt with a stronger one is not always safe. Harder bolts tend to be more brittle and may fail in specific applications. Also some equipment is designed so that the bolts will fail before more expensive or critical items are damaged"

All I know all split capliers like 4 pots use 8.8 grade I have seen and spoke to a few brake companies told me the same.

jpsaxo · 17th September 2013, 15:40

I'd also say 8.8 would be better for that application. Stronger is better, but also a lot more brittle as Andy has suggested. Last thing you want is one to snap...

gazza808 · 17th September 2013, 15:55

They probably use 8.8 because its strong ENOUGH and cheaper.
Everything comes down to cost.
12.9 may be more brittle but it can still take a higher shear and tensile loading force than a 8.8 so the 8.8 would have snapped etc before the 12.9.
And if you look at the figure quite alot before.. Around 50percent higher tensile strength for the 12.9

In my engineering field we don't use anything less than 10.9 usually always 12.9,
8.8 is seen as substandard in most applications for us.
Better to be over engineered than under. (Higher costs)
If I get round to it I'll pull a 8.8 test bar as a 12.9 in the metrology lab and post my findings when I'm back in the workshop
May be a while though I'm sat in Japan for a few months.

slammed106 · 19th September 2013, 10:33

AP std issue:

12.9s

Jack-Cooley · 19th September 2013, 10:40

Mine are brembos not ap but the application is the same,

Anyone know where i can get some anthracite brake caliper paint?

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Jack-Cooley · 19th September 2013, 22:46

BE mounts purchased and arrived today from colin at atspeed

Jack-Cooley · 19th September 2013, 22:48

Also very tempted at having a similar colour to this mixed up for my brakes.

these are toyota urban cruiser wheels, we have one in at work for sale and the colour is a light anthracite/grey and its VERY shiny. would look ace i think. will get a good photo with my phone tomorrow if i remember

anyone know where i could find the colour code for the wheels?