Jacks Cossack Grey S2 Turbo

[Jack-Cooley]

Originally Posted by e8_pqck

C2 inlet - speak to anyone breaking a C2 vts off ebay - loads about.
Speak to martin at Tweeq'd to get an adapter plate to tun the VTS throttle body
Look on 205 drivers or ebay for second hand diff - grippers dont come up often but i got my quaife for £410 delivered
Breakdown of my BE conversion items:

BE Box, speedo, 306 shaft, carrier, o/s shaft ..... £159 ..... 2nd ..... Ebay
BE Quaife ..... £410 ..... 2nd ..... Ebay
BE gearbox mount (Garry.M) ..... £70 ..... New ..... Rallye Reg
2 x 37mm wheel bearings ..... £49 ..... New ..... Car Parts4Less
BE hubs (machined down to 37mm) ..... £52 ..... 2nd ..... Rallye Reg
M10 Rose joints (x2) ..... £20 ..... New ..... Ebay
Driveshaft shorten ..... £50 ..... New ..... Workshop
BE4 manual cable conversion ..... £35 ..... New ..... Peugeot
BE4 clutch cable ..... £15 ..... New ..... Ebay
BE Satch conversion ..... £35 ..... 2nd/unused ..... Sax-P

Total - £895

for the above i already have the box and the shafts. so all i would need is the BE mount conversion, dont spoox and atspeed do these also? they're like £200 tho iirc? was yours off "garry.m" new? is he a supplier or just a lad who was selling something?

my shafts are BE to MA so i can use normal hubs with tapered barings cant i

how do i know if i need a cable conversion kit? i assumed they were all cable tbh. mine has an arm like the MA ones do

also dont wanna run a quaife diff. i've been offered the new 3j plated diff at £704, and if im not happy with it he's offering me a full refund and then ill get a gripper diff, i actually already have a quaife diff but my mates collecting it this coming friday, sold it for £500.






tweeq'd how much we talking for an adaptor plate and im assuming the inlet needs cutting in half to shorten in as it now says "tubo" haha.

[tweeqd]

Yes the rover inlet needs cutting and welding, then a bit of porting to match the jp4 head

In adaptor is £80 posted for the full kit, adaptor, bolt, gasket and cable bracket


This is the cable bracket for the be, most are hydraulic so need changing

[Jack-Cooley]

Originally Posted by tweeqd

Yes the rover inlet needs cutting and welding, then a bit of porting to match the jp4 head

In adaptor is £80 posted for the full kit, adaptor, bolt, gasket and cable bracket


This is the cable bracket for the be, most are hydraulic so need changing

that adapter plate, thats for the throttle body yes? seems mad at £80. i think i could make one of those, seems simple enough to be honest.

as for the cable conversion im sure that the be box i have has an arm exactly like the ma ones.

would that mean that i wouldnt need the conversion kit?


Thanks guys.


which rover inlet is it? off which models?

[tweeqd]

Yes adapts the standard j4 throttle body to work with the c2 inlet

Its £80 for the whole kit, you dont have to buy one, if you can get it CNC cut from alloy to the exact shape needed on both sides and counter sunk for the bolts, then the bolts, the genuine gasket and a bracket for the cable ( the standard inlet holds the cable and is obviously removed when you change inlet) then save yourself a few £

I have these made by a local enginering firm but have to buy 5 at a time, same with the cable bracket


If your BE has an MA type arm are you sure its a BE4 and not a 1 or 3 ?
Is the starter cut out at the front or back

[Jack-Cooley]

Originally Posted by tweeqd

Yes adapts the standard j4 throttle body to work with the c2 inlet

Its £80 for the whole kit, you dont have to buy one, if you can get it CNC cut from alloy to the exact shape needed on both sides and counter sunk for the bolts, then the bolts, the genuine gasket and a bracket for the cable ( the standard inlet holds the cable and is obviously removed when you change inlet) then save yourself a few £

I have these made by a local enginering firm but have to buy 5 at a time, same with the cable bracket


If your BE has an MA type arm are you sure its a BE4 and not a 1 or 3 ?
Is the starter cut out at the front or back

When you put it that way... i'll take one! haha ill have one off ya soon enough if i get this rover inlet... we'll see

as for it being a be4, what does the starter cut out look like? the only pictures i have of the box are these: does that show it at all?






where exactly is the gearbox code on the 'boxes? ill check it exactly tomorrow

[Rossp]

Are you planning to run those shafts then...?

[Jack-Cooley]

Originally Posted by Ross

Are you planning to run those shafts then...?

Yup

Being an absolute rebel ya see.

Shafts i'm told not to use.
& a standard ecu.


Come at me bro

[Rossp]

I don't care about your ecu - those shafts are proven to fail. Repeatedly. Your loss... :/

[Gareth_R]

fyi you seem to think that adaptor from tweeqd is to use with the rover inlet - it isnt, its to use the C2 inlet

[e8_pqck]

PM Garry.M off rallye register - he'll make you one up. its a direct copy of the Spoox one.
You will also need a torque link, these can be purchased from www.mcgillmotorsports.co.uk - cost about 20-30 quid. Ive been told to use an 85mm turnbuckle with M10 or M12 rose joints. That's your rear mount for half the price of a spoox one and a quarter of what ATSpeed charge (probably).

[tweeqd]

As g says the adaptor is for the citroen c2 vts inlet



The rover inlet needs an inch cuuting out the middle, then welded up, then porting to match the ports on the head, then a custom fuel rail making up then a cable made to work with it

Get a picture of the box from the bellhousing side and ill tell if it the right box

[Jack-Cooley]

Originally Posted by Ross

I don't care about your ecu - those shafts are proven to fail. Repeatedly. Your loss... :/

which shafts do you reccomend then? v2's?

Originally Posted by Gareth_R

fyi you seem to think that adaptor from tweeqd is to use with the rover inlet - it isnt, its to use the C2 inlet

thanks

Originally Posted by tweeqd

As g says the adaptor is for the citroen c2 vts inlet



The rover inlet needs an inch cuuting out the middle, then welded up, then porting to match the ports on the head, then a custom fuel rail making up then a cable made to work with it

Get a picture of the box from the bellhousing side and ill tell if it the right box


Im all for doing things different but love your attitude, advise from people who have turbing TU's for 10 years and you wont listen to a word

yeah i think ill stick with the c2 one, but ill wait for your reply via pm first.

ill get a few pics, noob here dosnt know what a bellhousing is.

and i keep listening to people, i listen to ricky, and colin, and you, and ross and everyone else. everyone has different opinions and views. that way im just in an endless cycle of changing my mind and getting nowhere with knowing what im doing of progressing in the slightest?

i need to listen to a group of people at the most who have the same view. i spent a month listening to people about diffs. in the end i went with the gripper/3j. thats cos i listened to sonny/colin.

if i listened to colin i would have turbo cams from him, along with a thousand pound inlet and a massive clutch and some crazy ass pistons and rods that are good for a million bhp.


but really in the end all i need is a wossner setup and a nice map on the standard ecu. if it dosnt work its my own fault for listening to them, but wayne has mapped ecu's like he will be doing with mine before. and he has good results. so when its mapped we'll see how it does if its shit and dosnt work then ill just have to fork out for a standalone ecu.

but thats just another question to ask, as i have no experiences either on the mechanical or electrical side of motor engineering i have to listen to others, and ideally i should listen to local mechanics and people who will actaully be working on cars along with some input off the people who arent taking my money off me, obviously i know people like colin will try to sell me omex items along with their own home-made products. which is why ricky and wayne are usually good people to ask. they dont sell anything, they dont have their own products that way you really do get a more honest answer out of them.


sorry if i rambled on a little there.

[e8_pqck]

yep, looks like the right gearbox.

[tweeqd]

There is nothing wrong with wanting to be different
Ive just sold the highest power tu 8v in the uk after 10 years developing it cos i wanted something different to everyone else

Even now ive gone 16v its with a home made inlet, old school t34 and just cos i can a 6 speed gearbox
Its always good to make it work if its a break from the norm, thats why i like being involved in building ians ax, 300+ bhp with bits that noone uses


Get a pic of the box from the side that bolts to the engine, the top lever is missing though


The downside with the rover inlet is the cost in labour, its hours of work to make it fit

[welshpug]

did you miss the post about the MM1AP ecu not being able to cope with boost?

[Jack-Cooley]

Originally Posted by e8_pqck

yep, looks like the right gearbox.

thanks, ill take some pics for tweeq'd anyway.

Originally Posted by tweeqd

There is nothing wrong with wanting to be different
Ive just sold the highest power tu 8v in the uk after 10 years developing it cos i wanted something different to everyone else

Even now ive gone 16v its with a home made inlet, old school t34 and just cos i can a 6 speed gearbox
Its always good to make it work if its a break from the norm, thats why i like being involved in building ians ax, 300+ bhp with bits that noone uses


Get a pic of the box from the side that bolts to the engine, the top lever is missing though


The downside with the rover inlet is the cost in labour, its hours of work to make it fit

what power was that running out of interest? and will get you a picture tomorrow

Originally Posted by welshpug

did you miss the post about the MM1AP ecu not being able to cope with boost?

i didnt miss it nope. i asked what i meant and didnt really get an answer that i understood.

i'm assuming its a ecu code. is it a code which defines all single plug gti ecu's? or is it just one of many codes that are single plug ones? its the latter then i can just find myself a single plug ecuwhich isnt a "MM1AP" and have that mapped?

right..?

[Rossp]

I, like the others who have posted, are not trying to get you to listen because they have something to gain - we simply want you to get the best you can and don't want to see you fail. Really, will it affect me if you fuck something up? No.

You don't have to listen to me. Or Martin. Or anyone else.

If I could recommend one thing though. It's that you take some things from those with a vested interest in selling you something with a dose of salts. A lot of people in this thread, including myself, have no interest other than your own success, in helping you.

For your driveshafts, there are a LOT cheaper ways to get the shafts sorted than buying a commercial kit from anyone. My whole drivetrain (excluding diff) this year stand me at about £350. Thats bearings, hubs, shafts, gearbox itself, machining, etc.

Iirc, both Tweed Automotive and Constella can sort you out a complete drivetrain for probably 50% of the prices you've already seen elsewhere. Give either a call.

[welshpug]

ALL single plug 16v's use the Magnetti Marelli ecu.

[Jack-Cooley]

Originally Posted by Ross

I, like the others who have posted, are not trying to get you to listen because they have something to gain - we simply want you to get the best you can and don't want to see you fail. Really, will it affect me if you fuck something up? No.

You don't have to listen to me. Or Martin. Or anyone else.

If I could recommend one thing though. It's that you take some things from those with a vested interest in selling you something with a dose of salts. A lot of people in this thread, including myself, have no interest other than your own success, in helping you.

For your driveshafts, there are a LOT cheaper ways to get the shafts sorted than buying a commercial kit from anyone. My whole drivetrain (excluding diff) this year stand me at about £350. Thats bearings, hubs, shafts, gearbox itself, machining, etc.

Iirc, both Tweed Automotive and Constella can sort you out a complete drivetrain for probably 50% of the prices you've already seen elsewhere. Give either a call.

yep. if i fail. i hunt you down and bumrape you.


i always forget about constella, i should probably just email them. ill go do that now.

as for the shafts i was told by colin that he never snapped a set ever apart from drag racing, and i wont be running 400hp... not even 300 in the start i dont think...

but ill speak to constella about it now

and tweeq'd? could you quote me? BE to MA if possible. you know the drill. around 350bhp maximum

thanks

[Jack-Cooley]

Originally Posted by welshpug

ALL single plug 16v's use the Magnetti Marelli ecu.

so your telling me all single plug 16v ecu's cant handle boost?


if so, explain craigs 16v s1 rallye? 202.5 and re-tweaking the map to 230 soon when the new box goes on..


not a problem anyway, can always just get a 3plug ecu sorted out as they can map launch control in anyways wheras single cant at the moment.