oil choice - Saxperience

Ross^p · 19th November 2012, 15:42

I've intentionally posted this here as I want track / motorsport orientated replies.

For the last two years I've used 10w60 Bardahl XTR oil. I'm looking at alternatives and wondered what some of you guys who spank the shit out of your engines use, or ideally, recommendations from Sandy etc would be ideal...

I'm only looking to change as I plan to use the car a lot more this year, and want to do more frequent oil changes (every 1500 miles or so) and don't want to swallow the cost so so frequently.

What's everyones flavour please?

jsdvtr · 19th November 2012, 17:24

I asked ope oil for mine and he suggested-

I'd use the Millers CRO at first (first 500-1000 miles), then when it's run in go for something good like the Millers CFS, Redline, Motul 300V or Gulf Competition.

I asked what to use as a fresh build then what to change too once done a few miles.

sexy_gt · 19th November 2012, 17:54

i use castrol gtx or magnatec 10-40. oil and filter changed after EVERY trackday...

Ross^p · 19th November 2012, 18:22

Thanks guys - I pm'd Tim from opie and he said-

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx

The Nanodrive CFS is, on paper, the best oil available, but the Pro S and CFS are both really good oils, so all are good choices for your car.

Harv · 19th November 2012, 18:45

I either use Fuchs Titan Race Pro or I'm currently using Gulf competition stuff on the civic as I got it mega cheap from a deal with Opie Oils a few weeks a go.

I've used Millers CFS before too on the civic. Tbh I haven't really noticed a difference between any of them as they have all been top quality oils.

I have to admit though, on the saxo I just used Halfords motorsport oil. It came highly recommended on an evo and subaru forum I'm on and with a trade card it was only costing me £22. I'm a firm believer that changing an oil frequently is better than buying a super duper oil and changing it every year. However I also believe that a modified engine or a highly strung engine should always have a top quality oil to hopefully safeguard the expensive components within.

Ross^p · 19th November 2012, 19:04

thanks all for the input - appreciated

Harv, that's exactly my attitude. I want to change oil every 1500 miles or so, but at £150+ a time on the old oil, that seems silly... Pleased to have found these choices

Thanks all again!

106maxi · 19th November 2012, 19:59

I use Gulf Motorsport.

Boombang · 19th November 2012, 21:11

After chats with a gentleman who works in the industry, I will no longer use any oil that doesn't have ACEA A3/B4.

greyjasper51 · 19th November 2012, 21:31

I use 10w- 40 synta from vw :-) is really good :-)

barwell1992 · 19th November 2012, 21:35

Neo oil, used in f1,radicals,lmp1/2 ect, pretty much every high end motorsport, good enough that lots of teams just filter it with filter paper and stick it back in

drop me a PM for more info (also do gear box oil,drive shaft grease,brake fluid)

Sandy309 · 20th November 2012, 07:20

Any decent brand 10w40 semi synthetic is all you need, (I use Shell/Mobil/Total as a rule). Spend the extra on a decent oil temp gauge so you can properly monitor oil temps, you want to be running over 70C and under 120C for semi synth, fully synth can take more without causing a problem. You'll do alot more to protect your engine and maximise performance by observing that, than spending double on oil.

Ross^p · 20th November 2012, 08:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sandy309

Any decent brand 10w40 semi synthetic is all you need, (I use Shell/Mobil/Total as a rule). Spend the extra on a decent oil temp gauge so you can properly monitor oil temps, you want to be running over 70C and under 120C for semi synth, fully synth can take more without causing a problem. You'll do alot more to protect your engine and maximise performance by observing that, than spending double on oil.

Thanks sandy. My oil temperature is measured (and logged) electronically and is always in that range.

For a road car (even given my spec) what frequency would you recommend oil changes?

wadoryu · 20th November 2012, 08:33

I change my oil Ross, just as it starts to discolour.

Sandy309 · 20th November 2012, 16:28

Depends how clean the mapping is really, if there's alot of fuel getting into the oil, then as often as you can afford! But if it's very sweetly mapped, about 4k or 6 months.

Ross^p · 20th November 2012, 16:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sandy309

Depends how clean the mapping is really, if there's alot of fuel getting into the oil, then as often as you can afford! But if it's very sweetly mapped, about 4k or 6 months.

Thanks Sandy - appreciated

greyjasper51 · 20th November 2012, 16:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by barwell1992

Neo oil, used in f1,radicals,lmp1/2 ect, pretty much every high end motorsport, good enough that lots of teams just filter it with filter paper and stick it back in

drop me a PM for more info (also do gear box oil,drive shaft grease,brake fluid)

I think they get the viscosity tested first mate...

barwell1992 · 20th November 2012, 19:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by greyjasper51

I think they get the viscosity tested first mate...

im not 100% on that but from what i have heard they don't (obviously f1/lmp ect just replace it) i think its mainly gearbox oil as well that just get filtered

adamskiTNR · 20th November 2012, 22:16

I dont know of many motorsport teams reusing oil from either gearbox or engine. Compared to a race engine or gearbox rebuild, a round of oil is nothing. And the amount of wear race components suffer from due to higher tolerancing generally makes the oil more contaminated than road car equivalents

axsaxoman · 28th November 2012, 11:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sandy309

Depends how clean the mapping is really, if there's alot of fuel getting into the oil, then as often as you can afford! But if it's very sweetly mapped, about 4k or 6 months.

I agree totaly with sandy
If you are needing to change as frequently as you are suggesting then I am guessing you are smelling petrol inthe oil and that is death to rings and as sandy is saying mapping is probably the reason --extra rich under serious boost --just be be sure ,so maybe it will be more economic just to keep changing 10/40w very often ,certainly simple+ cheap
running too cold (water temp wise )could mean pistons never expand to correct size when just cruising about on the road .
worth checking your ecu to see at what water temp the coolant correction map stops adding extra fuel,also check the cold start map

Ross^p · 28th November 2012, 11:23

I don't NEED to John, I WANT to.

Nowt wrong with the mapping - I do remember my mapper pointing and laughing as he saw the map that was on it previously though (borrowed from someone elses car as a base map for mine to get it running/started) - temperature correction to significantly advance the ignition as temperature increased... A work of a genius...

Thanks for the input though - I'll check what the temps on the ECU are set to - it's useful info to know if nothing else. I can remember the fan cut-in/out settings but not the correction tables.