battery relocation - Saxperience

greyjasper51 · 8th January 2014, 16:03

how has everyone else done theirs? straight from the kill switch to the back of the starter and then from that back to the distribution box by the brake servo of have you joined into the existing live loom that's there?

pictures would be nice just trying to keep it neat and simple

cheers

sri_130 · 12th January 2014, 10:09

2nd hand bmw connection box where battery used to be.
decent positive wire to kill switch, kill switch to battery. battery earthed to body behind passenger seat.

Allows car to be jumped still, under the bonnet if required.
Not saying thats how it should be done, but thats how my gypo setup works.

greyjasper51 · 12th January 2014, 19:28

yeah cheers, wired it in now and i think im gonna put an anderson plug on so its just a 1 quick plug to jump start it if it ever needs it

axsaxoman · 13th January 2014, 08:52

now starrt the car ==and unplug the battery -if it stil runs --then you have not isolated it correctly =--alternator is keeping it going --so kill will not work when someone hits the kill switch on the outside of car

MuZiZZle · 13th January 2014, 09:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by axsaxoman

now starrt the car ==and unplug the battery -if it stil runs --then you have not isolated it correctly =--alternator is keeping it going --so kill will not work when someone hits the kill switch on the outside of car

What's the correct way? I need to do this soon.

Cheers

greyjasper51 · 13th January 2014, 23:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by axsaxoman

now starrt the car ==and unplug the battery -if it stil runs --then you have not isolated it correctly =--alternator is keeping it going --so kill will not work when someone hits the kill switch on the outside of car

yeah my kill switch works, that was never an issue it was just how people distributed the power after the kill switch

chompy · 14th January 2014, 07:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by axsaxoman

now starrt the car ==and unplug the battery -if it stil runs --then you have not isolated it correctly =--alternator is keeping it going --so kill will not work when someone hits the kill switch on the outside of car

Just to add to this, it should be tested at high revs to ensure it kills properly.

greyjasper51 · 14th January 2014, 18:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by chompy

Just to add to this, it should be tested at high revs to ensure it kills properly.

Yes it does i have the grayson resistor installed through the other contacts on the kill switch ( connected when switch is off)

AzzAW93 · 14th January 2014, 19:29

mine goes from the battery to the kill switch.
kill switch into engine bay
then the battery cable, feed to starter motor and feed to fuse box were all bolted togeter and wrapped in tape.
like so...

greyjasper51 · 17th January 2014, 09:41

Thats how i did it in the end trying to keep everything neat...

Thinner cable is 65A which is enough for my car as its hardly got any electrics in it now

adamskiTNR · 27th January 2014, 21:44

The correct kill switches have multiple poles. The main one isolates the battery. THe first small switch disconnects the ignition, and the third grounds the alternator output through a large resistor to remove the energy in the form of heat.

greyjasper51 · 27th January 2014, 22:01

like any fia kill switch...

Keicchan · 6th May 2015, 14:51

Hello ;D i've recently equip my sax with a fia hexapolar kill switch to be sure that when i turn it the circuit it's open and the engine will stop... plus i've relocated the bactery in the car ...

to do that i've:

cutted all the negative poles tha goes to the battery and fixed them all together to the chassie (where originally battery plate is)

cutted all the positive cordes that goes to the battery and fixed them all together to a new bigger cord.

i've moved that cord inside the car using the hole under the brake pump and connected it to one of the bigger pole of the kill switch

i've founded which fuse it's the one of the fuel pump (u can use the cabling from the inertia switch instead ) and bypassed it with some faston connectors from the fuse box

i've moved those 2 cable from the fuse to the "always close" pins of the Fia kill switch..

from the IN connector of the main power of the fia kill switch i've created a secondary cord to the "always open" pins of the kill switch than welded to the resistor that u have with the fia kill switch than secured to the chassie..
the other main pole of the kill switch goes to the new positive of the battery inside the car
the negative pole of the battery goes to the chassie in the car...

when u turn the kill switch u will open the two "always closed" circuit, close the "always open" one and stop the pump... car will stop in less than 1 sec .. alternator charge will goes to the chassie through the resistor in the secondary connection of the kill switch

that's all ;D