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19th November 2012, 15:42
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#1
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Cambridge(ish), UK.
Posts: 10,581
Car(s): BMW 5x M50d.
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oil choice
I've intentionally posted this here as I want track / motorsport orientated replies.
For the last two years I've used 10w60 Bardahl XTR oil. I'm looking at alternatives and wondered what some of you guys who spank the shit out of your engines use, or ideally, recommendations from Sandy etc would be ideal...
I'm only looking to change as I plan to use the car a lot more this year, and want to do more frequent oil changes (every 1500 miles or so) and don't want to swallow the cost so so frequently.
What's everyones flavour please?
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19th November 2012, 17:24
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#2
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Saxperience Forum Bum
Join Date: May 2007
Location: morecambe
Posts: 4,286
Car(s): 2003 vtr/s
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I asked ope oil for mine and he suggested-
I'd use the Millers CRO at first (first 500-1000 miles), then when it's run in go for something good like the Millers CFS, Redline, Motul 300V or Gulf Competition.
I asked what to use as a fresh build then what to change too once done a few miles.
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Nah you want purple yo! makes cars go faster!!!!
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19th November 2012, 17:54
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#3
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Saxperience Post Whore
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Grimsby United Kingdom (England)
Posts: 5,489
Car(s): SUPERCHARGED saxo vts
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i use castrol gtx or magnatec 10-40. oil and filter changed after EVERY trackday...
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19th November 2012, 18:22
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#4
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Cambridge(ish), UK.
Posts: 10,581
Car(s): BMW 5x M50d.
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Thanks guys - I pm'd Tim from opie and he said-
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-659-10w-50.aspx
The Nanodrive CFS is, on paper, the best oil available, but the Pro S and CFS are both really good oils, so all are good choices for your car.
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19th November 2012, 18:45
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#5
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Saxperience Forum Bum
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Mold
Posts: 2,936
Car(s): EP3 Civic Type R
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I either use Fuchs Titan Race Pro or I'm currently using Gulf competition stuff on the civic as I got it mega cheap from a deal with Opie Oils a few weeks a go.
I've used Millers CFS before too on the civic. Tbh I haven't really noticed a difference between any of them as they have all been top quality oils.
I have to admit though, on the saxo I just used Halfords motorsport oil. It came highly recommended on an evo and subaru forum I'm on and with a trade card it was only costing me £22. I'm a firm believer that changing an oil frequently is better than buying a super duper oil and changing it every year. However I also believe that a modified engine or a highly strung engine should always have a top quality oil to hopefully safeguard the expensive components within.
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Saxo VTR Track beast
EP3 Civic Type R - soon to be JRSC'd
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19th November 2012, 19:04
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#6
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Cambridge(ish), UK.
Posts: 10,581
Car(s): BMW 5x M50d.
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thanks all for the input - appreciated
Harv, that's exactly my attitude. I want to change oil every 1500 miles or so, but at £150+ a time on the old oil, that seems silly... Pleased to have found these choices
Thanks all again!
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19th November 2012, 19:59
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#7
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Infrequent Poster
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 234
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I use Gulf Motorsport.
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19th November 2012, 21:11
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#8
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Infrequent Poster
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Essex
Posts: 208
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After chats with a gentleman who works in the industry, I will no longer use any oil that doesn't have ACEA A3/B4.
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19th November 2012, 21:31
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#9
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Established Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: south essex!!
Posts: 2,442
Car(s): posi blue vtrs race car
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I use 10w- 40 synta from vw :-) is really good :-)
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19th November 2012, 21:35
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#10
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Frequent Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Rugby
Posts: 752
Car(s): saxo vtr 02, 150bhp yamaha FZ1:)
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Neo oil, used in f1,radicals,lmp1/2 ect, pretty much every high end motorsport, good enough that lots of teams just filter it with filter paper and stick it back in
drop me a PM for more info (also do gear box oil,drive shaft grease,brake fluid)
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150bhp ATW fz1
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20th November 2012, 07:20
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#11
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Regular Poster
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 349
Car(s): 106 XSi
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Any decent brand 10w40 semi synthetic is all you need, (I use Shell/Mobil/Total as a rule). Spend the extra on a decent oil temp gauge so you can properly monitor oil temps, you want to be running over 70C and under 120C for semi synth, fully synth can take more without causing a problem. You'll do alot more to protect your engine and maximise performance by observing that, than spending double on oil.
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20th November 2012, 08:12
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#12
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Cambridge(ish), UK.
Posts: 10,581
Car(s): BMW 5x M50d.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandy309
Any decent brand 10w40 semi synthetic is all you need, (I use Shell/Mobil/Total as a rule). Spend the extra on a decent oil temp gauge so you can properly monitor oil temps, you want to be running over 70C and under 120C for semi synth, fully synth can take more without causing a problem. You'll do alot more to protect your engine and maximise performance by observing that, than spending double on oil.
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Thanks sandy. My oil temperature is measured (and logged) electronically and is always in that range.
For a road car (even given my spec) what frequency would you recommend oil changes?
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20th November 2012, 08:33
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#13
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Saxperience Post Whore
Join Date: May 2009
Location: ringwood
Posts: 6,305
Car(s): suzuki swift 1.2 sz3
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I change my oil Ross, just as it starts to discolour.
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20th November 2012, 16:28
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#14
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Regular Poster
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 349
Car(s): 106 XSi
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Depends how clean the mapping is really, if there's alot of fuel getting into the oil, then as often as you can afford! But if it's very sweetly mapped, about 4k or 6 months.
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20th November 2012, 16:30
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#15
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Cambridge(ish), UK.
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Car(s): BMW 5x M50d.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandy309
Depends how clean the mapping is really, if there's alot of fuel getting into the oil, then as often as you can afford! But if it's very sweetly mapped, about 4k or 6 months.
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Thanks Sandy - appreciated
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20th November 2012, 16:48
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#16
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Established Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: south essex!!
Posts: 2,442
Car(s): posi blue vtrs race car
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barwell1992
Neo oil, used in f1,radicals,lmp1/2 ect, pretty much every high end motorsport, good enough that lots of teams just filter it with filter paper and stick it back in
drop me a PM for more info (also do gear box oil,drive shaft grease,brake fluid)
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I think they get the viscosity tested first mate...
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20th November 2012, 19:53
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#17
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Frequent Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Rugby
Posts: 752
Car(s): saxo vtr 02, 150bhp yamaha FZ1:)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greyjasper51
I think they get the viscosity tested first mate...
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im not 100% on that but from what i have heard they don't (obviously f1/lmp ect just replace it) i think its mainly gearbox oil as well that just get filtered
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150bhp ATW fz1
Last edited by barwell1992; 20th November 2012 at 19:58.
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20th November 2012, 22:16
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#18
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Saxperience Forum Bum
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Uckfield, East Sussex
Posts: 3,362
Car(s): Citroen saxo 1.4 furio
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I dont know of many motorsport teams reusing oil from either gearbox or engine. Compared to a race engine or gearbox rebuild, a round of oil is nothing. And the amount of wear race components suffer from due to higher tolerancing generally makes the oil more contaminated than road car equivalents
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28th November 2012, 11:12
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#19
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Saxperience Forum Bum
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Scotland
Posts: 3,380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandy309
Depends how clean the mapping is really, if there's alot of fuel getting into the oil, then as often as you can afford! But if it's very sweetly mapped, about 4k or 6 months.
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I agree totaly with sandy
If you are needing to change as frequently as you are suggesting then I am guessing you are smelling petrol inthe oil and that is death to rings and as sandy is saying mapping is probably the reason --extra rich under serious boost --just be be sure ,so maybe it will be more economic just to keep changing 10/40w very often ,certainly simple+ cheap
running too cold (water temp wise )could mean pistons never expand to correct size when just cruising about on the road .
worth checking your ecu to see at what water temp the coolant correction map stops adding extra fuel,also check the cold start map
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28th November 2012, 11:23
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#20
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Cambridge(ish), UK.
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Car(s): BMW 5x M50d.
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I don't NEED to John, I WANT to.
Nowt wrong with the mapping - I do remember my mapper pointing and laughing as he saw the map that was on it previously though (borrowed from someone elses car as a base map for mine to get it running/started) - temperature correction to significantly advance the ignition as temperature increased... A work of a genius...
Thanks for the input though - I'll check what the temps on the ECU are set to - it's useful info to know if nothing else. I can remember the fan cut-in/out settings but not the correction tables.
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