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Old 2nd April 2023, 20:36   #1
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Default BE conversion issue,wheel hub being pushed out by driveshaft.

Hi,i have kind of a weird problem after doing the BE gearbox conversion,the offside wheel hub is being pushed out for some reason and when this happen i get massive play in the wheel.
You can see in the first picture below the wheel hub is pushed out:



In the second picture with the red mark after i pressed the hub back in all the play disappears,but after a few corners i get play again.



I am using the modified shafts from Satchell so i know they are the right length,also i am using the wheel hub and bearing kit from Satchell so again they are the right parts.
Of course I am using the tapered type for both driveshaft and hub.

Ive fitted a new outer cv joint but it didnt fix it,I am torqueing up the driveshaft nut to 325nm as per manual,is my wheel bearing gone and need to get a new one? the passenger side is all okay and ive used exactly the same method to fit them so not sure whats going on,thanks for the help.
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Old 2nd April 2023, 22:17   #2
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if there's play the CV isn't clamping the bearing but bottoming out on the drive flange stub.

I have heard of this happening with aftermarket CV joints on BE 205's where they are machined incorrectly on the radius from the splines to the body of the CV joint (much like the difference between flat and tapered 106/saxo)
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Old 2nd April 2023, 22:24   #3
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just a thought, don't these need a spacer between the bearing and the drive flange on the outer side?
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Old 2nd April 2023, 22:37   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by welshpug View Post
just a thought, don't these need a spacer between the bearing and the drive flange on the outer side?
Hi,thank you for the help,yes ive emailed Satchell at the time (been trying to fix this issue for a while) but they confirmed they fitted the 2mm spacer on the hubs prior to shipping which makes this even more confusing as to why i still get massive play.
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Old 2nd April 2023, 22:40   #5
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I have a picture of the old cv joint that was fitted,if you zoom in quite a bit you can see the shiny mark where the cv joint was clamping to the hub which isnt all they way and how it should be.

How can i fix this? if it is the cv jont at fault can i not just buy the same nearside drivehsaft and just use that outer cv joint? as i dont have any issues on the passenger side,unless the cv joint are different from side to side.





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Old 3rd April 2023, 00:15   #6
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The flat part of your CV should be hard up against the back of the bearing so it can clamp it.

It sounds like the taper on the new shaft is ever so slightly too big and it's stopping the driveshaft from seating home fully - despite the presence of the 2mm washer on the other side.

I don't remember the taper on my shafts having a wear line on them when I removed them - that's a sure sign it wasn't seated properly in the first place.

You could take a small amount of material off the taper using a grinder. I've never done this before though. since the taper isn't that important.

I've actually seen the tapers completely ground off before, I'd be worried about stress cracking though.
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Old 3rd April 2023, 10:38   #7
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I was thinking before getting the grinder out I could try to put a spacer on the driveshaft itself so that it sits flush? That should work and once tightened I don't think it would unbalance anything
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Old 3rd April 2023, 21:08   #8
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I was thinking before getting the grinder out I could try to put a spacer on the driveshaft itself so that it sits flush? That should work and once tightened I don't think it would unbalance anything
so basically you'd have a spacer on both sides? yeah sure that would work. it's important that the shaft squeezes the bearing.
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Old 4th April 2023, 12:05   #9
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I have ordered a custom made washer to fit on the driveshaft to take up the slack,i can still see a mark on the new joint so just used that as a reference for the thickness,it is 5mm,quite a bit but i will see how it goes,i dont really want to grind down the taper on the shaft to be honest.
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Old 8th April 2023, 09:37   #10
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if its too big there's no issue at all taking it down to the right size, the flat face of the CV is the bit that clamps.

there is no difference in CV's left to right, only the shaft itself.
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Old 8th April 2023, 10:41   #11
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I've had issues with aftermarket driveshafts not fitting properly. If during manufacture a tool breaks during one operation an area might not get finished machined to the correct size. It might just have been missed. If it were just the hub then I would suggest making that a bit shorter but if it's also the bearing there isn't much you can do about that.
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Old 10th April 2023, 20:41   #12
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I think I've fixed this,I've used a spacer on the cv joint,went for a drive and no play,usually it appears instantly after a few corners so it should be all good.



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Old 10th April 2023, 22:36   #13
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as long as the Castellated nut cover and R clip still fits and the inner CV doesn't bottom out then job done, I think we had to run a spacer on the inside on an early wide track kit using 307 hubs as the 406 joints were longer.
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