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Old 3rd June 2011, 14:49   #21
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Std casing but probably tickled internally for clearance. Quaife do a dog box too.
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Old 3rd June 2011, 15:04   #22
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no need for BE box if you are running n/a at any power level ----just will cost alot more to do ,with all the other mods required + its alot heavier as well,only possible tech advantage is if you go with a plate dif ,then crown wheels are bolt on and there are more plates in a BE dif ,but if its a pure track car ,then you will not find correct dif ratio on any std box ,so you have to buy them anyway,no matter which box you choose.
we have lots of customers running 220+ @wheels with ma boxs and they do not destroy them that freuently ,and with n/a you will never have the torque of a boosted car + its torque that detroys box,s
i still maintain for most track day cars your best all round option ,considering price etc is an ma + gear kit + lsd .
If you want to hunt about there was an ax 4x4 made which used a much lower final drive ratio --maybe you can find one
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Old 3rd June 2011, 15:56   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axsaxoman View Post
no need for BE box if you are running n/a at any power level ----just will cost alot more to do ,with all the other mods required + its alot heavier as well,only possible tech advantage is if you go with a plate dif ,then crown wheels are bolt on and there are more plates in a BE dif ,but if its a pure track car ,then you will not find correct dif ratio on any std box ,so you have to buy them anyway,no matter which box you choose.
we have lots of customers running 220+ @wheels with ma boxs and they do not destroy them that freuently ,and with n/a you will never have the torque of a boosted car + its torque that detroys box,s
i still maintain for most track day cars your best all round option ,considering price etc is an ma + gear kit + lsd .
If you want to hunt about there was an ax 4x4 made which used a much lower final drive ratio --maybe you can find one
many thanks for that it was really useful.
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Old 3rd June 2011, 16:04   #24
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Sorry forgot to ask will the gear kit alone help for quicker gearshifts?
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Old 4th June 2011, 00:12   #25
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If you want quick gear shifts you need a dog box, a Quaife gear kit still uses std syncro's so makes no change to gear change times.
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Old 7th June 2011, 08:53   #26
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dog boxs are quicker shifts ,but ,no good for road use and if you don,t change correctly you will damage the dogs quicker than you will wear the synchro,s. in a normal box .
thats why dog boxs are not fitted to std cars and paddle sift exoctic cars or electronic operated type boxs fitted to road cars are still synchro .
it is nearly impossible to drive at less than full power with a dog box and get smooth gear changes with no jerking or clunks.
they are for competion and not for a semi road car.
If you have g/change problems on a std g/box ,then you will definativly have problems with a dog box ,it requires more skill and rpm matching to get good changes than a synchro box does.
try changing up+ down your std box from first to 5th with no clutch ,when you can do that seamlessly ,then you are ready for a dog box ,its all about mathcing the rpms for the next gear you wish to use to get the best from them .
a full spec squential box with computer control will not allow you to select next gear unless the rpm is correct ,as they use dog engagment and if rpm not matched will damge things . if you go dog then consider as a minimum an ignition cut coupled to the gear change
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Old 7th June 2011, 15:12   #27
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The thread is titled "best gearbox for saxo track car" John.

I have no problem driving with my dog box on the road and I don't have to match rpm either, I don't understand why your even mentioning that John as it's not an issue unless you drive a classic car with a non syncro box. As long as you change gear quickly with a dog box it's fine, if you don't it'll crunch.
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Old 7th June 2011, 15:32   #28
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cool, thanks for that. I don't think I could justify buying a dog box for a Saxo that I paid £1k for so I'll just pretend with no clutch
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Old 7th June 2011, 17:45   #29
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Default also this ones

the www.bacciromano.com

they have vry intresting parts for our boxes...
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Old 9th June 2011, 08:35   #30
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I agree with you the title is "best g/box for track car"
there is only one answer to that
full squential ,close ratio ,lsd + low final drive ratio
as far as dog engagment goes .I am merely pointing out to the readers ,most of which have never used a dog box ,the downsides ,and that you must drive it a certain way or it will not last and will not be pleaseant to use in every day driving ,
you know as well as i do that what alot of posters consider a track car is really a compromise road+ track ,the biggest compromise is always money ,hence why I see no point in going BE with N/a engine with all the other things you have to change,and no better choice of ratios from std pug/cit g/boxs
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Old 9th June 2011, 09:10   #31
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I agree with you, I suppose when your lap times hit a brick wall and you've tried everything cheaper then the quaife gearkit and diff seem the best value for money option to get the times down (unless you're already having reliablity issues with your standard options)
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Old 9th June 2011, 10:14   #32
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Guys let's not argue everyone can have an opinion mine is attack only cat no road use but budget was my main Concern so no bow but in future will get a quaffie def and maybe longterm better ratios but this would be in a few yes time as buying a house now really useful info on her though thanks
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Old 14th June 2011, 22:57   #33
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whats attack?
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Old 15th June 2011, 01:19   #34
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Sorry should say a track car only spell checker on iPhone
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Old 16th June 2011, 19:30   #35
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watched your day at castle combe --yes save up for a c/r kit + a dif
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Old 16th June 2011, 20:27   #36
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Quote:
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watched your day at castle combe --yes save up for a c/r kit + a dif
So are u saying I was slow?!
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Old 16th June 2011, 21:14   #37
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Castle combe 1.30pm session


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Old 16th June 2011, 23:20   #38
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no directly ,what i am saying is i can see how much quicker you would be with correct gearing and a dif
I am suprised they allow you to overtake on the right ,if you got it wrong up the inside of a car you are overtaking on a corner you would wipe them out as well .
its normal to nly allow overtaking on the left hand side on a clockwise circuit on track days for that very reason .
I am not impuning your driving in any way as I can see your not close to the limit ,but a less skilled driver on the limit would indeed pose a great threat tothose he was outbraking into a corner and going up the inside --
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Old 16th June 2011, 23:30   #39
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Is overtaking on the right only no the left there which they state in briefings and black flag if not adhered to, which I agree is weird on a clockwise circuit and illogical but have to obey the rules!
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Old 17th June 2011, 14:49   #40
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maybe they figure that he car you cut up and out brake into the corner will chicken and back off --.
wouldn,t happen at knockhill if they allowed such antics--most of the hot hatch drivers and definatley of "death and glory"
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