you are getting far too wound up abouti ncorrect torque settings
i promise you there are no mechanics, that do this for a job, that use a torque wrench on ALL nuts and bolts --you couldn,t afford to pay them if they did, it would double the time of every job nearly .
just do them up tight with normal length spanners or ratchet --they will be fine .
Iwould have been more impressed if someone had mentioned that the car should be sitting on the ground when tigthening up the bolt securing the front wishbone bush --so the rubber is in a relaxed setting when suspension is in its natural position
in some case not doing this can cause premature failure of bushs
and if you want to get really anal --having bush under twist when car is at rest is actually altering the spring /ARB rate ..
as for correct torques you can look at an engineering guide and see what the torque of any normal bolt should be - by knowing size and tensile markings on the bolt head
eg 8.8 ,10.9 .12.9
and of course you have cleaned+ grease or oiled all the threads and faces to get rid of any incorrect clamping due to friction of nut on the bolt and against the metal it is tightening up to which will mean actual torque on the mounting point is less than the wrench reads ,cos settings are for new components not old rusty ones
I as normal good engineering practise use copper slip on all things on reassembly -reduces friction and means it won,t be rusty when next it has to be removed--I might be the next man to strip down
an old saying --"tights is tight +too tight is fucked "
only thing worth using torque wrench on is special bolts like cylinder head ,crankshaft ,con rods etc-- which will be special steels and stretch qualities+ fine threads usually on crank bolts
hub nut if you can strip that even with a 36" head bar you ,ll be first man ever to do so
and they do not come loose if you do them right -ever
don,t trust yourself ?--go back round them after a day on the road -bet they feel tighter than when you did them first time --friction only ones liablel to later are the ones in the footwell --cos you are squishing 4 layers of the chassis together --was very common on new cars cos the torque settings didn,t allow for poor spot welding leaving gaps at the fixing point + and std torque did not pull them all close
so in time they appeared to come loose --was just the 4 layers finally compressing closer so allowing a gap to form enough to make a knocking sound
If only other worry would be the ball joint pinch bolt if someone has already over tightened it with an air gun in the past + strectched it--you want to be sure --fit a new one
__________________
when the flag drops the bulshit stops.
owner of GMC motorsport 01671404030/01671403699
Last edited by axsaxoman; 28th June 2016 at 08:54.
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