Changing Rear Brake Pads / Discs *Guide*

[Steve]

The way i do it, dont think its the ghey haynes manual way.

Parts Needed
New Pads
New Discs
Pad Retaining Slider (i used my old one it was fine)

Tools needed.

Basic tool / socket set
Hammer
Screw Driver / Chizzle
Jack / axel stands if your health and safety

1. Loosen Wheel Nuts
2. Jack The Car Up
3. Take Wheel Nuts Out
4. Take Wheel Off
5. 2 Bolts On Back Of The Caliper (iirc 18mm or 19mm Socket Needed) Take Them Out
6. Take Caliper Off (this will have the pads attached)
7. If You Were Changing The Discs As Well There Is 2 Torx Bolts Holding Them On Take Them Out, Thats The Disc Off, Put New Disc ON.
8. Now The Caliper Is Off, You Will See A Piston, It Has Jaggered Ends, Turn That Clockwise At Least 10 Full Turns, This Retracts The Piston So You Can Fit The Caliper Back On With New Pads.
9. With The Caliper Unclip The Metal Clips, Take Note Of How You Take Them Off.
10. There Is A Metal Slider On The Caliper Holding The Pads I, It Should Have A Securing Clip, Take That Out, Hammer And Chizzle The Metal Slider Out, Once Thats Out The Pads Fall Out.


Re Fitting
1. As Above Make Sure You Have Retracted The Piston By Turning Clockwise.
2. Bolt The Caliper Back Onto The Car.
3. Put The Pad With Out The Lump Of Metal On The Back On The Outside.
4. The Pad With The Metal Lump On Back Needs To Line Up In The Grooves On The Piston, So May Need To Slightly Move The Piston Clockwise To Get The Pad In (If You Have Not Retracted It Enough, The Pads Wont Fit Over The Disc So Need To Turn Some More).
5. Once The Pads Are In, Put The Securing Slider Back In (Your Meant To Use A New One)
6. Put The Retaining Metal Clips Back On As You Took Them Off.
7. Make Sure Caliper Nuts Are Tight.
8. Wheel Back ON
9. Lower To Ground
10. Check Wheel Nuts

Take it easy to let the pads bed in.

Thats how you fit them, on note sometimes you may need to adjust your handbrake cable as it can be too tight, but because i dont abuse mine, i have never had to alter it ever, when pads were low at most mine was 3 clicks, now its back at 1


Reading that may sound hard to some people, but it litterally takes me 5 minutes a side


Can get some photos eventually.

[Predator_R32p]

stickied get some pics up and itll be a greater guide

[Mark51p]

will be alot better with pics mate. have you done one for drums?

[Steve]

Originally Posted by Mark51

will be alot better with pics mate. have you done one for drums?

nar as i dont have dums


will get some pictures today when fitting 4pots

[wobbit]

i just changed my rear pads, i didnt need to take the caliper off, just knocked the slide out.

[Liam_]

Originally Posted by wobbit

i just changed my rear pads, i didnt need to take the caliper off, just knocked the slide out.

Chances are they could be binding if you didn't wind the piston back in. If you jack it up is the wheel free to spin or can you feel it resisting rotation?

[Steve]

Originally Posted by Steve_VTS

The way i do it

Originally Posted by wobbit

i just changed my rear pads, i didnt need to take the caliper off, just knocked the slide out.

Easier to wind the piston back in with the caliper off for the sake of two bolts.
You'll find it harder to take the pads out and more then likey forced the new pads back in, even after a few turns of the piston it didnt give me enough clearance to put the new pads in.
If you didnt wind the piston back in then you probably didnt need new pads thats the only way i know you could change the pads without retracting the piston.

As there isnt enough room to fit the pads back in if you dont retract the pistons.

I have put up the easiest method imo with easy access to the piston.

Also if you read the guide it also covers on how to change the disc, you ever changed a disc with the caliper on with pads in it


But what ever you find easiest i suppose

Originally Posted by LeeumH

Chances are they could be binding if you didn't wind the piston back in. If you jack it up is the wheel free to spin or can you feel it resisting rotation?

your learning well leeeeeeeeeeeeebum.

[wobbit]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_VTS
The way i do it

Quote:
Originally Posted by wobbit
i just changed my rear pads, i didnt need to take the caliper off, just knocked the slide out.

Easier to wind the piston back in with the caliper off for the sake of two bolts.
You'll find it harder to take the pads out and more then likey forced the new pads back in, even after a few turns of the piston it didnt give me enough clearance to put the new pads in.
If you didnt wind the piston back in then you probably didnt need new pads thats the only way i know you could change the pads without retracting the piston.

As there isnt enough room to fit the pads back in if you dont retract the pistons.

I have put up the easiest method imo with easy access to the piston.

Also if you read the guide it also covers on how to change the disc, you ever changed a disc with the caliper on with pads in it


But what ever you find easiest i suppose

i did wind the piston back in, i used a medium screwdriver as a bar in the slots in the piston if u know what i mean, they wernt forced either.

took me 10 mins tops each side

[wobbit]

but this was just the way i do it, doesnt mean its the best way lol

[Steve]

Originally Posted by wobbit

i did wind the piston back in, i used a medium screwdriver as a bar in the slots in the piston if u know what i mean, they wernt forced either.

took me 10 mins tops each side

Originally Posted by wobbit

but this was just the way i do it, doesnt mean its the best way lol

yeah its what people find easiest.

I had calipers off anyway to paint, done it in the past with caliper on got sick of using screw driver, lot easier with caliper off then mole grip the piston and you can do full turns

takes me 5 - 10 mins each side thats from jacking wheel up, to changing disc/caliper off/new pads in and wheel back on and to the floor


i only know that as i like to time myself haha

[wobbit]

[QUOTE]i only know that as i like to time myself haha[/QUOTE

haha will be in the f1 team yet!

[Steve]

Originally Posted by wobbit

haha will be in the f1 team yet!

hopefully lmao

[Woolley]

is the pad retaining slider the flat bar between the two bolts holding the caliper on? If so, mine has snapped!!! Im assuming i need this to be in 1 piece?!!!!

[Steve]

No its not mate. Its on the carrier in between the pads and carrier. Just done a set tonight should have took photos lol

[Woolley]

aaaah right. The pads on the rear were making a scraping sound like they were rubbing on the disks so i took them apart and cleaned them up, but once back together they still make the same noise! Noticed there is a flat sort of plate between the two bolts holding the caliper to the carrier that had snapped. wondered if that might be why?

[kingmerf]

iv done the two torx bolts on the disk but it aint cumin off, iv got a spacer on it too will that have anythin to do with it?

[Predator_R32p]

use your feet to kick it and try to release it, if all else fails use a mallet on it (its not liek your gonna be using it again), but use some brake/clutch cleaner to stop brake dust flying all oer as its very poisonous

[kingmerf]

so there isent anythin else holdin it on? there still pretty new so shudent be much build up

[Predator_R32p]

this is the rear discs right??

if so you need to remove the rear caliper

[kingmerf]

got the new disk on now cheers, now the freakin caliper wont reach to bolt it back on and its pissin me off cus am gettin soaked while tryin to do this grr what can i do bout the caliper?
iv retracted the piston it just wont reach like there is too much pad on the pads but there isent